Opinions for new construction (Jotul Rangeley & Greenville vs Regency F2400)

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indywoodheat

New Member
Apr 23, 2014
3
Central Indiana
Hello all,

I've been a lurker here for years. Back in 2005 purchased a 1,370 sq. ft. home with a masonry chimney with an '80s insert and stainless steel liner. Got rid of it and purchased a Regency F1100 because that is what a local family business carries and they suggested. I don't heat very often with wood, just days off. I want a wood stove mostly for emergency situations, supplemental heat comes second, but burning a warming wood fire also is fun for me...a stress reliever to some extent.

Over the years the Regency has done well, but not great. I almost always burn with the air intake wide open, maybe closing it a bit. I was always worried about over firing it, but the install guy said it being cast steel, with such a small firebox, over firing risk was minimal, just to keep an eye on it if I load it up. He said he had the freestanding model and his air intake was set low after start-up and he loaded up the box. I continued to burn it full on for the most part, never really packed the box, but it always got hot enough to not have a creosote issue and never had smoke coming out the chimney (the secondary burn tubes work well). The worst part of this set-up was that the limestone fireplace would block/soak up the radiant heat from the unit with the exception of that emitting from the front. Thankfully the backside of the chimney was on the garage side, which limited cold air from cooling the stone. I also burned a lot of wood, I would usually reload a really large piece or two medium pieces every few hours. I finally learned (still learning) that if I placed a small piece of wood on top of two other medium pieces, the top piece would almost become like a massive block of hot coals. This would really get the stove hot and put out the heat. Another issue was that the firebox is just small and a front to back burn is hard unless wood is cut shorter. Overall though, the stove is easy to use, burns great.

Hopefully my wife and I will soon be in the process of buying a lot and building a home. This is off a county road, likely minimal covenants (there are only six lots being sold, old farm crop fields, not a traditional neighborhood). One requirement they have disclosed is that minimum sq. ft. for a one story to be at least 2,000 sq. ft.. This is perfectly fine with us as we need more room. We will likely have a partial or full unfinished basement as well. We would like an all brick home, but if the difference is tens of thousands vs. a brick front and some sort of non-vinyl maintenance free siding, we might just get the front bricked. If we get the lot we want, three car garage could be located on the west side, which should act as a wind block to some extent. The builders we might use have been building for decades, so I'm going to assume they would use typical insulation. I want a free standing unit, and really don't even want a masonry chimney/fireplace as part of the home.

So now I'm deciding on what stove to get. Regency makes a medium unit similar like the one I have, the F2400. I'm also down to two Jotul models, the F 50 TL Rangeley and the F 45 Greenville. The preparedness part of me really likes the cook top on the Rangeley, as well as their grill insert. The Rangeley is said to heat 2,500 sq. ft., and not sure if it will be too much. The Greenville only is said to heat 1,600 sq. ft., which might mean rooms on the outskirts of the home might be cool. The F2400 heats about between these two at 2,200 sq. ft. and has a larger firebox than my current F1100. Reviews for all are for the most part sound excellent, both on the review page and forums. I really like the simple operation of my F1100 and think it would do better as a freestanding unit, thus the F2400 I would assume would do well. Also, Regency is said to be cast steel, but I'm not sure about the Jotul units. I heard the Rangeley could have cast iron sides or steel sides, and am not sure what is better to have: Steel or iron. Will still want a blower unit regardless of which unit we purchase.

Just looking for suggestions and opinions. Thanks!
 
The builders we might use have been building for decades, so I'm going to assume they would use typical insulation.

If it would be me, I would not just assume but make sure they make the house as well insulated and air-tight as possible. During construction is the best time for doing it and will save you money for decades to come, not to mention be more comfortable to live in a house with even heat and no drafts. Here is a good site for more info: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/guest-blogs/pretty-good-house

For a new, energy-efficient home, I would suggest looking into a catalytic stove. It will supply heat at a steady and moderate pace, not like your Regency that gets hot early on but also has a long coaling stage when it does not supply as much heat anymore. For sizing the stove, look at the firebox size more than the advertised sqft. For a home over 2000 sqft in Indiana a 3 cu ft stove is usually recommended but if you build it energy efficient 2.5 cu ft or a bit less may already be enough. Will you be having a heating load analysis done? That will help in sizing the stove.

For a cat stove, look at the Blazeking Princess or their 30 series. Another option would be the Woodstock Progress Hybrid or the Fireview if you build it very energy efficient. From the stoves you looked at I would suggest the Jotul Rangely with its 2.7 cu ft firebox. The F45 has 2.2 and may be a tad small. Similarly the Regency F2400 with 2.3 cu ft. There are also plenty other options of non-cat stoves that would fit. Have you looked at other manufacturers such as Lopi, Pacific Energy, Enviro, Hearthstone, Osburn, Quadrafire, Kuma, and Buck, to name the most common ones?

You could also think about an EPA-approved zero clearance fireplace. That will give you heat, while looking like a real fireplace. Here is an example: (broken link removed) The cost will be higher but a fireplace may increase the value of your home, a woodstove usually does not.

I would also make sure you can connect the stove to an outside air kit with a new, airtight construction. That will help draft and also be slightly more efficient since you will be using outside air to feed the fire, not heated room air. Since you say you have been reading on the side a while, I assume you now about the importance of dry wood. See if you can have a few cords delivered to the building site as soon as possible to stack it in some unused corner.
 
Welcome Indy. Grisu has already summed up the advice of years here at Hearth.com so I won't repeat it. Build it well now and place the emphasis on insulation and a tight house envelope. If possible, site and design the house to take advantage of passive solar gain in the winter. This will payback considerably over the life of the home in reduced heating and cooling bills and a quieter house. If you do this you will find that the house requires half or less of what a conventional house needs to heat it. That can add up to some major savings. If you go this route budget for a quality HRV to keep the air fresh. Question: will the house have a basement? If yes, is the basement area considered part of the 2000 sq ft requirement?

Kudos for deciding on having a freestanding stove. That will provide the best heat and range of options. The stove choice will depend somewhat on the house floor plan too. If it is an open floor plan, then you may be able to use a larger stove like the Rangely, but if the house's heat loss is low, that could be too big. The only way you will know is to have the heat loss calculations done early. With good insulation it could be as low as 5BTUs/sq ft. or about 10,000btus/hr., but 20-25K btus would be more typical for good, tight new construction. (30K would be average). If so, the Greeneville will suffice. Some other stoves to consider would be the Enviro Boston, Pacific Energy Alderlea T5, and Quadrafire Yosemite. But wait until you have some actual numbers to determine the right sized stove.
 
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Thanks for the tips so far. I will make of note of housing insulation to the builder. Additionally, I will see if the builder is willing to have my local family owned and operated company do the install. I'm glad outside air was mentioned, I had forgot about that and building new will be a perfect time to get something like that done. As far as stove type, I don't want a stove with a catalyst. The turn off for me is that there is this part, the catalyst, that will eventually need to be replaced. I want a stove that I don't have to worry about something that needs to be replaced every few years. It is possible that with me burning only 2/7ths of the week, my catalyst wouldn't need changed for a decade. Even then, is there any guarantee that I will be able to find one, at a very low price, ten years from now?

Also, thanks for the suggestion of the HRV. I had a contractor over for a bathroom remodel. I gutted the bathroom myself and thought there was mold between the plastic and insulation. Builder said it was just decades of dust/dirt because homes built like my current home breathed better. He said that energy efficiency and tightness have gotten so good, they are finding homes with new but poor quality carpet have a lot of air issues. He said they are telling people to bring in plants to help clean the air. I know we will get some rooms carpeted and will try to find a very good carpet with minimal chemical treatment. I was still going to use a HEPA filter, but the HRV might be a better option.

As for getting too hot, I'm OK with opening a window if need be. It does sound like a waste, but I just really think the cooking features of the Rangely is a great feature to have. I know I can use a cast iron pan if I need on the other stoves, but just not sure how well that would work. It is really likely coming down to just two stoves now, the Rangely or the F2400. Oh decisions decisions....:confused:
 
Cut yourself some slack. It sounds like you have plenty of other things to decide right now. I would not get fixated on either of those stoves until you have a sense of the house's hourly heating requirement and actually are ready to install. If the floor plan is not open or if the insulation and house wrap are done exceptionally well, then either stove could be too much.

Maybe consider a foam board wrap as a thermal break and as an option to improve thermal efficiency?
 
If you insist that your local hearth shop does the job, then the builder has no choice. ;)
In our area, all the reputable builders use the friendly neighborhood hearth shop for stoves and fireplaces. Most don't want to assume the liability.
 
I also think your fears of a cat stoves are based on what others have told you. In the past this was the case unfortunately. Cat technology has come a long way. For instance, Blaze King has an unconditional 10 warranty on the cat! For me, I save so much wood with my Blaze King, If I had to replace the cat out of pocket every few years It would be worth it!
 
I also think your fears of a cat stoves are based on what others have told you. In the past this was the case unfortunately. Cat technology has come a long way. For instance, Blaze King has an unconditional 10 warranty on the cat! For me, I save so much wood with my Blaze King, If I had to replace the cat out of pocket every few years It would be worth it!

Ten years, now that sounds reasonable. Replacements seem to be around $100-$200?? There wasn't much info on Wikipedia on catalytic vs. non-catalytic on the wood stove entry. I will check out what is being said about modern units and go from there. Thirty hour burn times....really? Blake King looks nice, so I will look more into them before deciding. Thanks again for all the advice.
 
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