I got the flue run for my shop install wood stove.
I've ordered the 50-tlv-17.
(broken image removed)
My shop space is small, roughly 12' x 24', though I can open a door to the rest of the building which is 24' x 30' total.
I have three concerns.
First is stove temperature. I've gathered that it will be in the range of 350-550 degrees?
The stove as placed with the flue running straight up (indicated by the red cabinet in the middle of the room same rough size as the stove) will be 5.5' from the outer edge of my chair.
Is this too close?
I have a gas heater now that is 3' from my chair which gets up to 400 degrees (feels good!)
If I offset the pipe from stove to ceiling, I can push the stove another 20" away, giving me a shade over 7'.
This will actually put the stove dead center of the room, my initial goal, but the roof ridge is also in the center... thus requiring that I move the flue off center...
The flue pipe run is short, 6 feet of insulated double wall above my ceiling, which terminates 3' above the roof peak.
Offsetting the stove/pipe will add a little length to the setup.
Good/bad?
Second;
The flue is insulated double wall, with a ceiling support and stovepipe adaptor.
The issue is in keeping 18" clearance from the pipe to the ceiling.
The adaptor is single wall.
I'm unable to find any short interior double wall pipe.
Can I use a 12" piece of insulated flue inside, and then connect the adaptor?
I believe I followed the instructions but can't figure why the manufacturer wouldn't design the system, as designed and sold, to provide 18" of clearance, unless they assume everyone has a non combustible ceiling material?
And third;
The flue install from the ceiling support to the cap.
Everything by the book, and looks good except for pipe rigidity where it goes through the roof.
I framed the hole in the roof to provide the 2" clearance, and installed the flashing and collar.
However, it is slightly "loose" as in I can push the flue pipe sideways a little, not much, but enough that a strong wind could do the same.
There really isn't anything to "hold" the pipe except for the flashing.
I'm thinking some sort of support inside, under the roof to hold it all rigid.
I noted in the instruction book that in some cases, it is used as a supplementary support for taller flues, though after putting my system together, it looks like this part would remove any play in my pipe where it exits the roof?
Thanks for the help!
Rob
I've ordered the 50-tlv-17.
(broken image removed)
My shop space is small, roughly 12' x 24', though I can open a door to the rest of the building which is 24' x 30' total.
I have three concerns.
First is stove temperature. I've gathered that it will be in the range of 350-550 degrees?
The stove as placed with the flue running straight up (indicated by the red cabinet in the middle of the room same rough size as the stove) will be 5.5' from the outer edge of my chair.
Is this too close?
I have a gas heater now that is 3' from my chair which gets up to 400 degrees (feels good!)
If I offset the pipe from stove to ceiling, I can push the stove another 20" away, giving me a shade over 7'.
This will actually put the stove dead center of the room, my initial goal, but the roof ridge is also in the center... thus requiring that I move the flue off center...
The flue pipe run is short, 6 feet of insulated double wall above my ceiling, which terminates 3' above the roof peak.
Offsetting the stove/pipe will add a little length to the setup.
Good/bad?
Second;
The flue is insulated double wall, with a ceiling support and stovepipe adaptor.
The issue is in keeping 18" clearance from the pipe to the ceiling.
The adaptor is single wall.
I'm unable to find any short interior double wall pipe.
Can I use a 12" piece of insulated flue inside, and then connect the adaptor?
I believe I followed the instructions but can't figure why the manufacturer wouldn't design the system, as designed and sold, to provide 18" of clearance, unless they assume everyone has a non combustible ceiling material?
And third;
The flue install from the ceiling support to the cap.
Everything by the book, and looks good except for pipe rigidity where it goes through the roof.
I framed the hole in the roof to provide the 2" clearance, and installed the flashing and collar.
However, it is slightly "loose" as in I can push the flue pipe sideways a little, not much, but enough that a strong wind could do the same.
There really isn't anything to "hold" the pipe except for the flashing.
I'm thinking some sort of support inside, under the roof to hold it all rigid.
I noted in the instruction book that in some cases, it is used as a supplementary support for taller flues, though after putting my system together, it looks like this part would remove any play in my pipe where it exits the roof?
Thanks for the help!
Rob