Stack install

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DaveNY49

New Member
Jun 3, 2024
63
New York
Installing my stack by myself. I came up with three ways to do it. Would like opinions on the easiest method. I have 4 feet of single wall and 3 feet of double. Going through the roof with a ceiling support box. Which way would you do it?

Image 1 combine the single and double together and lower it from up on the roof down through the box into the stove flue opening?

Image 2 run the single wall from the stove to the support box and then from on top of the roof lower the double wall in and connect?

Image 3 install the double wall into the support box and then inside connect the single wall to the stove and slide it into position to connect to the box?

I know pipe doesn’t move much so I won’t have much bend to work with

[Hearth.com] Stack install


[Hearth.com] Stack install


[Hearth.com] Stack install
 
It would appear you do not have a telescoping section to make up the run from the stove to the ceiling support box?
 
It would appear you do not have a telescoping section to make up the run from the stove to the ceiling support box?
Correct. All the pipe has been purchased and no further pipe will be purchased or exchanged. Since my total stack is 7 feet I don’t mind muscling it around. If it was 20 feet or more I’d get another person or perhaps spend the extra $60 for a telescope section. So far I’m thinking of assembling all 7 feet and while on the roof lowering it down through the support box. I have used a plumb Bob and have the flue opening directly inline with the opening of the support box. The double wall has a support ring around it that essentially stops it at a certain point resting on the inside of the box. So if I lower it down through it will pretty much end up very close to the flue opening. Then I am thinking I can go inside and nudge it into the flue. This is my thinking anyway. lol
 
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7ft seems extremely short. I think most stoves require at least 15ft and those are the extremely easy breathing ones. At 7ft I think you will have draft problems.
 
What type of stove is it? As said a 7 foot chimney is asking for problems with modern stoves.
 
Correct. All the pipe has been purchased and no further pipe will be purchased or exchanged. Since my total stack is 7 feet I don’t mind muscling it around. If it was 20 feet or more I’d get another person or perhaps spend the extra $60 for a telescope section. So far I’m thinking of assembling all 7 feet and while on the roof lowering it down through the support box. I have used a plumb Bob and have the flue opening directly inline with the opening of the support box. The double wall has a support ring around it that essentially stops it at a certain point resting on the inside of the box. So if I lower it down through it will pretty much end up very close to the flue opening. Then I am thinking I can go inside and nudge it into the flue. This is my thinking anyway. lol
Ok my ceiling support box does just that, it supports all the insulated double wall pipe up above it. Then a regular double wall telescoping pipe comes off of my stove into the ceiling support box. I’m not familiar with your style of installation. And 7’ is extremely short. Don’t forget about the 2/10 roof rule.
 
7ft seems extremely short. I think most stoves require at least 15ft and those are the extremely easy breathing ones. At 7ft I think you will have draft problems.
Sorry I’m so late replying. So, the stoves I’m installing are replacements for my old stoves. Have a large home. And had a Huntsman and a barrel stove I fabricated that was lined with firebrick and had a baffle. Both of them had short stacks aswell and in the 3 years of use my draft was always wonderful. I’m replacing my older stoves with a Fisher Teddy and a Bullard. If I find I have draft issues I can add more pipe. But my other two stoves both went through the wall with two 90s and my draft was great. The newer stoves will be going straight up so I’m confident draft will be good
 
My dude that is less than half of what you need for total flue. Unless your stove is a leaky steel box with no baffles, burn tubes, catalyst, seals, hopes, dreams......................
I had a Huntsman and a fabricated Barrel stove in my large home. The barrel was lined with firebrick and had a baffle. Those two stoves went out a wall with a total of two 90s and were short stacks all together. My roof just isn’t that high. The new stoves I’m installing are a fisher and a Bullard and I’m going straight up through the roof. If the other stoves had great draft with short stacks and 2 90s I’m confident the new stoves with straight through the roof stacks will be more than good. I hear a lot about a minimum of 15 feet but in my case I have not experienced that. And know quite a few people that have less than that. But, at the end of the day draft is key and if I find I have bad draft for any reason I’ll simply add another few feet of pipe
 
Ok my ceiling support box does just that, it supports all the insulated double wall pipe up above it. Then a regular double wall telescoping pipe comes off of my stove into the ceiling support box. I’m not familiar with your style of installation. And 7’ is extremely short. Don’t forget about the 2/10 roof rule.
7 is what I had before. I’m just changing my stove. Draft was never and issue for me. Always had amazing draft.
 
I had a Huntsman and a fabricated Barrel stove in my large home. The barrel was lined with firebrick and had a baffle. Those two stoves went out a wall with a total of two 90s and were short stacks all together. My roof just isn’t that high. The new stoves I’m installing are a fisher and a Bullard and I’m going straight up through the roof. If the other stoves had great draft with short stacks and 2 90s I’m confident the new stoves with straight through the roof stacks will be more than good. I hear a lot about a minimum of 15 feet but in my case I have not experienced that. And know quite a few people that have less than that. But, at the end of the day draft is key and if I find I have bad draft for any reason I’ll simply add another few feet of pipe
Sounds good, old smoke dragons so you might get away with it. If you get issues with smoke rollout or poor performance your plan of adding a few feet would be a good idea. I guess if I was looking at it if I had good access to the joints and could screw everything together good I would do picture number two.
 
I have a similar setup with a cathedral ceiling support box and stainless chimney. I really don't see how you could or would be able to lower it all down into place. When I had a rigid stove pipe in the house mine was easier as my stove has a removeable adapter on it to turn the pipe from horizontal to vertical. I could just assemble it all and bolt the adapter on. When I went to DW pipe inside it was so much simpler to use a telescoping section.
 
I have a similar setup with a cathedral ceiling support box and stainless chimney. I really don't see how you could or would be able to lower it all down into place. When I had a rigid stove pipe in the house mine was easier as my stove has a removeable adapter on it to turn the pipe from horizontal to vertical. I could just assemble it all and bolt the adapter on. When I went to DW pipe inside it was so much simpler to use a telescoping section.
I’ve installed the pipe since making this post. The whole stack is 4-1/2 feet of single wall, and 3 feet of double. Which all together isn’t heavy or too cumbersome to handle. I assembled it, carried it up on the roof and lowered it down into the home. My son simply stood by the stove and just guided the pipe into the flue opening and the weight took care of the rest. And I pushed down firmly. That alone made for a pretty solid stack. Once it was free standing I added bracing. Worked good
 
Do you mean you have 4 1/2 ft of single wall pipe from the stove to the ceiling box? Or do you have 7 1/2 ft from stove to ceiling?
 
It may work, given the amount of heat these old stoves pump into the flue.
However, note that "I had amazing draft with my other stove" does not guarantee it'll work with this stove.
For the system to work, one has to have a chimney with enough "pull" (draft) to suck sufficient air into the stove. But the inlet and innards of the specific stove have an impedance (resistance to air flow) too, so a pull of a certain magnitude may result in sufficient air being sucked into one stove but might result in insufficient air being sucked into another stove with less easy breathing paths.

So the "it worked, and therefore it'll work again" is not necessarily valid.

Again, it might work. Or you might have to add some pipe after all. But that can be done later if you have smoke roll out or lackluster fire.

Try to do things fire-safe, and have CO and smoke detectors. Don't burn too low (i.e. with too low an air flow, meaning that the same "setting" previously might be too low with the different stove), because you don't want to end up with a chimney fire.
 
Can you post a picture of your setup? Only 4’ to the ceiling? Do you have to crouch over or crawl to get to your wood stove?
 
When one has a raised hearth, and a 3 ft tall stove, 8 ft ceilings get you a run of 4 ft of stove pipe.
 
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