opinions on true north TN20 (pacific energy) stove-please

[BigDogYooper]

Hello, I"am looking at buying the kinda newer true north TN20 stove by pacific energy, there are some great reviews from the first one (TN19) on this site but they are 4 yrs old, would like to hear remarks good and bad after a few years of use, I dont know what if any difference between TN19 & TN20.
Thanks for any help, cowboy billy hows yours working out???

 

[BigDogYooper]

really wanting to make sure this stove will not only be a cook you out of house kinda stove, hoping it will dial down and maintane decent heat output, thanks

 

[begreen]

The heat put out by the TN20 is not thermostatically regulated. One does not dial it down the same way as in an old Vigilant. It will run very differently compared to an older stove. Instead the heat output is controlled more by the inputs which are controlled by the operator. In spring and fall burning smaller batches of lower btu species wood and letting the fire go out if necessary will prevent overheating. Full loads of good hardwood will provide the maximum heat.

You might want to also be on the lookout for a used Woodstock Fireview or Keystone in good condition. They are catalytic soapstone stoves with nice even heat and a bit more responsive to the air control setting.

 

[BigDogYooper]

The heat put out by the TN20 is not thermostatically regulated. One does not dial it down the same way as in an old Vigilant. It will run very differently compared to an older stove. Instead the heat output is controlled more by the inputs which are controlled by the operator. In spring and fall burning smaller batches of lower btu species wood and letting the fire go out if necessary will prevent overheating. Full loads of good hardwood will provide the maximum heat.

You might want to also be on the lookout for a used Woodstock Fireview or Keystone in good condition. They are catalytic soapstone stoves with nice even heat and a bit more responsive to the air control setting.

so begreen are you saying if you close down the dampner after start up it wont ease down and stay around 3-400 deg?when bed time what do ya do to turn down for the long burn without getting to hot? its really hard finding a good used stove within 200 miles from where I live, kinda remote in U.P. MICHIGAN
I did not think the vigilants were thermostatically controlled, what about resolute acclaim 0041, theres a used 1 200 miles from me, gotta cross the mackinaw bridge for any, anything used is to far to just go and look

 

[begreen]

In an EPA secondary combustion stove closing down the air control will increase draw through the secondary manifold. That increases burn efficiency and delivers more heat. Depending on the wood load the stove top may go up to 600-650F, stay there for an hour, then as secondary burn diminishes the stove top temp will gradually decline. Normally during 24/7 winter burning this is a good thing, but during shoulder season burning one needs to be more mindful when burning. Soapstone stoves and cast iron jacketed stoves like the Pacific Energy Alderlea series buffer this heat cycle with additional mass. This helps with more even heating. As noted, a Woodstock soapstone stove sounds just right for your situation.

Most VC stoves have thermostatic control. That said, I'd stay away from the Acclaim. It is an expensive maintenance headache and the first stove to hurt the VC name.

 

[begreen]

If you do a search on - burn cycle - in this forum, titles only, you will find many posts on this topic. The burn cycle will vary with stove design, wood burned, time of year, draft strength and the operator. Here is an example:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/what-does-your-burn-cycle-look-like.134478/

 

[Highbeam]

To burn clean, the modern non-cat stoves burn hot all the time. None of that loping along at 300 overnight like the old stoves could do. When you turn the draft control all the way down, you are not actually closing the draft as they have a built in minimum setting that is quite high.

 

[defiant3]

Acclaim 0041 would be a very poor choice indeed. VERY poor choice. Plagued with problems. Nothing at all like the 1st gen. V.C. stoves.

 

[stovelark]

Hey big dog, Think you'd find running the PE very easy and it is a good performer, simple and easy to use given good dry seasoned wood. That is truly the key to any new stove. Operational experience will get it dialed in for you in having to learn how to set the air for what you want, tempered by how much fuel you provide it, like BG was saying. I too would stay away from VC products, their newer stoves' sec combustion assemblies have seemed to be more fragile, and are expensive to repair/replace. Good luck.

 

[BigDogYooper]

well got the TN20 on pad yesterday, will go and get some different pipeing today, REALLY hope it can behave decent and not be a cook you out of the house stove,
by the way dealer looked at secondary tubes and said they changed a little from the TN!9 for the better, so I thank you all for everything, I"ll get pipeing done today and WAIT for fall, sure want to try it tho, thanks again

 

[BigDogYooper]

Hey big dog, Think you'd find running the PE very easy and it is a good performer, simple and easy to use given good dry seasoned wood. That is truly the key to any new stove. Operational experience will get it dialed in for you in having to learn how to set the air for what you want, tempered by how much fuel you provide it, like BG was saying. I too would stay away from VC products, their newer stoves' sec combustion assemblies have seemed to be more fragile, and are expensive to repair/replace. Good luck.

Stovelark, thanks, your description of TN20 is just what I"m after, just hoping it can be tamed down enough to not be TOO hot or TOO cold, this site should allow me to get it right, just finding good seasoned wood in my area is the hardest part tho, thanks again

 

[BigDogYooper]

Hey

If you do a search on - burn cycle - in this forum, titles only, you will find many posts on this topic. The burn cycle will vary with stove design, wood burned, time of year, draft strength and the operator. Here is an example:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/what-does-your-burn-cycle-look-like.134478/

there begreen, just a early update on TN-20, so its 6-27-16, cooler day today here was 56 w/clouds and some wind so opened doors and let house cool down to about 61, started first fire in stove-was easy getting a small fire started, enough to have some coals, top gets to 300-400 quite easy, with a couple small splits throwed in she held about 375-400 for about 1.5-2.0hrs, then thru in 1 decent size split and shut her down for bed, woke up 6 hrs later and top was still 200deg, wow if it was loaded it will be great overnight burn time, at about 400 you can see secondary tubes burning like it advertises, with dampner slightly opened has great view of fire with clean glass, I looked for anything undesireable and really didnt see anything except a real decent stove, I would sure say they did this stove right, my only concern is my ceiling plate around pipeing going thru ceiling seemed kinda hot to touch, dont know whats to hot for saftey there, will use a Infared gun this fall on it-pipeing is 6" to 8"
Really glad you let me now about this stove, thanks again.

 

[Lake Girl]

gotta cross the mackinaw bridge

Glad you are having success with the new stove! Pics of your set-up might help troubleshoot the pipe temp ...

Crossing the Mackinaw bridge is an experience ... makes me nervous.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the update BigDog. I think you will be quite happy with the stove. Is it connected with single-wall or double-wall stove pipe?

 

[BigDogYooper]

Thanks for the update BigDog. I think you will be quite happy with the stove. Is it connected with single-wall or double-wall stove pipe?

begreen here is pics of pipeing, like I said ceiling rim at ceiling seemed kinda hot but could hold hand on it without burning hand while stove top was 400deg,
It might be OK just rather be safe than sorry, the old leaky stove was hooked up same way and it was burning you out of house last winter and no-problem

 

[BigDogYooper]

Glad you are having success with the new stove! Pics of your set-up might help troubleshoot the pipe temp ...

Crossing the Mackinaw bridge is an experience ... makes me nervous.

dont be scared of that little bridge, give me a call I"ll talk you thru it-ha

 

[begreen]

Do you know the brand chimney? Usually it's on the side of the pipe. The chimney pipe needs at least 2" clearance from any combustible.

 

[BigDogYooper]

Do you know the brand chimney? Usually it's on the side of the pipe. The chimney pipe needs at least 2" clearance from any combustible.

so your saying the whole in ceiling needs to be 2" gap between pipe wall and ceiling all the way around pipe? its probably only1" gap know
cant remember pipe brand, I"d have to get on roof to read it, but its a heavy bugger

 

[begreen]

Yes, most chimney pipe requires 2" clearance from the wood and drywall surrounding it, but there are exceptions that allow 1".

 

[BigDogYooper]

Yes, most chimney pipe requires 2" clearance from the wood and drywall surrounding it, but there are exceptions that allow 1".

so does chimney pipe (brand) make the exceptions-mine is about 1 1/8" gap around pipe, has a wood 2by on 2 sides that would not allow to open whole up a little without major ordeal? do I need to get on roof to tell you chimney brand?

 

[BigDogYooper]

Yes, most chimney pipe requires 2" clearance from the wood and drywall surrounding it, but there are exceptions that allow 1".

begreen just got a pic of my pipeing (brand) to answer your question of brand and clearense , I sure hope this pipe is 1" because its been that way for many years with that old stove that would get as hot as one can get, please let me now.

 

[begreen]

Metalbestos pipe needs 2" clearance to be safe and properly installed.

 

[BigDogYooper]

Metalbestos pipe needs 2" clearance to be safe and properly installed.
View attachment 182219

Begreen thanks so much, I just dont now if I should tear this all apart or not, like I said earlier its been used this way for years and I dont think its burned down yet, and should be burning a little cooler-since the old stove was very hot running (no adjustability), you say 5" Metalbestos-mine is 8".

 

[edyit]

pyrolysis doesnt happen over night, and if you don't follow proper clearances you run the risk of this happening

 

[begreen]

you say 5" Metalbestos-mine is 8".

I didn't mention pipe size. Is this 6" or 8" chimney - ID? If 8", maybe now is the time to replace with 6" chimney pipe? That will bring clearances into line.

Re: pyrolysis. Wood gets drier over time and with continued exposure to heat it's ignition temperature drops. I can't say this will ever be safe, even with a new stove. And then what happens with the first space out leaving the air open or with the first chimney fire? Hopefully this won't happen, but it's why these tested safety margins are in place.