I've come to realize that the ideal burn is somewhere, pending on model, 500-600 degrees. Question is...do you guys get these temps with out much stoking? I can achieve these temps but I'm usually moving the burning splits and fiddling with it. Probably more than I want to be.
optimum burning temps
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I can pretty easily get these temps, if I have a full load going. However, I think my stove likes 450-550. It will hold 500 for quite some time once the cat is engaged. I have written on another thread that I'm having coaling problems (too many coals building up) so am going to try to be more patient and let it burn down a little bit more. I'm just getting used to this new stove, so am experimenting. But, in answer to your question, no problem getting 500-600
Starting from a cold stove without a bed of hot coals it can be frustrating. But if you use small stuff to burn down to a coal bed and then load the bigger stuff, if it is good dry wood, then cruising up to 500-600 shouldn't be too difficult. I burn a pile of small poplar splits to establish the coal bed and warm up the flue and then load on the big stuff after it backs back down to around 400-450 and away it goes.
My Endeavor's been cruising around 500-550F with a decent load of pine. It got cooler than normal last night, so I used some oak and maple. With a decent load of hardwood, it cruises more in the 600-650F range. With hardwood, I get the Brother Bart "thermonuclear" secondary burn (TM, patent pending). It's half pretty, half down right scary.
550-600 is perfect on my stove,,,,,I achieve that with only about a half a load and my splits being split kinda small. If I use large splits and load it up 3/4 full, the stove gets a little to hot for me.
That being said where would be the best spot to check and put a temp gauge on a insert?brokeburner said:
ohio woodburner said:
That is a question for the ages. The only place on most modern inserts that you can stick a thermometer is on the front of it. And since the primary air wash comes in and down the front the temp on that thermometer can't have any reasonable relationship to the temperature of the stove top behind the surround. Heck, you can't even see if anything is "glowing" like your manual tells to watch for.
Yet another reason that a free standing stove is sitting in my fireplace.
Very easy to do . . . the three keys . . . 1) get a fire established as Brother Bart mentioned (much easier to get and stay with the high temps once you have a nice bed of coals going . . . even easier once you're burning 24/7 and the fire is always warm and the draft always going strong . . . 2) let the flue temp climb to the safe zone and then start to back the air control down a little at a time -- this will usually result in the heat staying in the firebox and you get more usable heat . . . 3) the real key . . . you've got to have good, well-seaoned firewood to get and achieve long-lasting high temps.
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