Options for basement installation

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KingsxCanada

Member
Nov 15, 2015
10
Canada
Hi everyone, first time posting here, and new user. I've done a fairly exhausting search on my specific questions and have learned a lot, but I want to get some opinions from the pros.

I want to install the wood stove in the basement of a single story (bungalow) house. I essentially have three options. Well, one of them might not be an option.

The first - drill a hole in the concrete and have the chimney run outside and along the house (you see this often).

The second - run the stovepipe/chimney into the second floor and up to the ceiling of the main floor, and then 90 degrees outside (like option one, but not in basement) and then up outside the house. The reason I'm entertaining this option is, because I can much more easily run the pipe outside the main floor wall (wood construction) versus me fighting and probably messing up drilling a hole in concrete. But is this option allowed? I can't see why not...but I think the reason people go out basement walls is to not have to have the pipe go through the house...which leads me to option 3.

The third - run the pipe into the second floor straight up, and then out the roof straight up. I would assume people will suggest this option, if I'm going to run the pipe into the main floor anyway. BUT - my roof, has a cathedral ceiling, but is not a standard cathedral celing - it's a scissor truss, which I've had low success finding what people do in this situation.

I like option 2, only because then I'm not messing with my ceiling/roof/insulation and/or scissor truss situation etc. It'll still go through the soffit and roof, but not through the insulated envelope. I don't really have the means to go through the concrete.

Anyway, what does everyone think...are there rules for going into the second story (main floor) and THEN outside, rather than through the basement wall? Thanks everyone.
 
Option 3 is what I would strive for. Use a cathedral ceiling support box. Can the stove be located so that it is not in line with a truss?
 
I suppose the pipe could be reconfigured to accommodate the truss, if it's an issue (I don't know if it is at this point). Where I live (my area of Canada) supervent seems to be the chimney and pipe of choice here, and the cathedral ceiling "box" looks short-ish. I don't know, for example, if it will be long enough to go from ceiling to roof, since there is still attic space there. I'm not sure what space I'm dealing with either. It is against the outside wall, so it would be the shortest distance in the truss at least.
 
See if you can also get Selkirk Metalbest pipe and take a look at the Excel pipe line.
 
Canadian online retailers are brutal in what they offer. A couple sell "some" selkirk chimney, but it's few and far between. I will have to talk to a professional fireplace/stove installer. It appears what is rated in the US doesn't necessarily apply here, or vice versa, which is unfortunate.

In the meantime, although I know option 3 (straight up and out) is the best, is there anything wrong, or illegal (code wise, or other) about running into a second level (main floor in my case from basement) and then out the wall?

I found a thread on this site, where someone had to do something similar, due to a 20" cantilevered floor above where the stove was and couldn't use offsets to go around (not allowed) outside. Ideally I'd prefer to not have the pipe run through the main floor, but again, my concrete cutting expertise, is well...non existent.
 
90 degree turns are not allowed in chimney pipe except at the initial tee so I would think that cancels option 2 completely.
 
Please excuse my lack of knowledge on the subject, but I'm unclear on what you mean by "initial tee". Does that mean you can't have a 90 after two pipes have joined, or you can't have a 90 after the pipe has passed through a floor?
 
There are no 90 deg. elbows for class A pipe, none are permitted in a chimney. A tee may be used for a through wall installation. Only 15 or 30 deg elbows may be used for up to a 30 deg. offset in the chimney pipe.
 
Basically, if you go straight up you will have a perfect chimney system. The pipe will be in conditioned space meaning less buildup and better draft. No elbows help the pipe flow smoother. Why mess with success?

Also, basements tend to be below the neutral pressure plane of the house and negative pressure issues can arise. Smoke spillage, sluggish, back draft, etc... The house stack effect will be competing with the chimney.
 
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