Options for dealing with old Oliver MacLeod fireplace and Square A chimney

[James_Kyte]

My house has a late 70's Oliver MacLeod heat circulating Regal fireplace, model BI36 with an 8" flue. It is in a walk-out basement family room. It has a square A chimney which I understand is no longer up to code or WETT-certifiable.

The fireplace box is entirely within the foundation of the house, and there is a masonry chimney on the exterior of the house. The square A pipe exits the rear of the box at an angle, goes out over the half height foundation wall into the base of the masonry chimney, and then goes up inside the chimney which is about 20-25' high.

It would be nice to be able to burn wood (or pellets) in this room again. The fireplace is set in an attractive brick wall and it costs a fortune to heat the space using electric baseboards. We have a modern woodstove on the main floor with its own selkirk stovepipe so we have firewood on hand.

I am wondering if anyone knows enough about these square A chimneys to tell me if any of the following options are viable or reasonable. Or provide other suggestions if you have them.

• Remove square A pipe and replace with a modern liner inside brick chimney. (Can a modern pipe attach to an old fireplace like this?)
• Remove square A pipe and Regal fireplace and start from scratch with new fireplace and liner inside brick chimney.
• Remove regal fireplace, install new wood pellet insert, and drop a corrugated metal pipe down inside the square A chimney.
• Remove regal fireplace, install new wood pellet insert, and simply vent through the pony wall next to the masonry chimney.

 

[jetsam]

Never heard of "Square A" before. If the thing is big enough to contain an 8" cylinder, you should be fine pulling an insulated 6" liner through it, though. If not, plan to remove it and put the liner in the masonry chimney.

You have a couple dependencies to resolve before you decide which way to go, if you want to burn wood.

First decide if you want an insert or a freestanding stove (the freestanding will generally perform better and bypass removing the old fireplace completely).

The first step towards an insert is to see if it's even possible to put an insert in the old fireplace. Your manufacturer appears to still be around in some capacity; I'd contact them and ask if you can put an insert into it. If you can't get this information, you'll have to remove it, which may be a project.

Next, think about desired heat output and what models you might want. If you are leaning towards the largest stoves, you'll need at least 9.25" to run an 8" insulated flue; most others will need at least 7.25" for a 6" flue. If you don't have 9.5" plus, I'd stick to 6" flue stoves.

If you picked freestanders, decide if you will cut a new hole in the chimney for the flue, or if you will restrict your search to rear-venting stoves (you get one or the other, unless the stove is tiny or the fireplace is very large).

Now you should have all the info you need to go stove shopping!

 

[bholler]

My first question is about the chimney you say is masonry? Is it actually a full masonry structure or is it a framed structure with a masonry veneer. A full masonry structure with a zero clearance fireplace in it would be very uncommon. But it is possible. If that is the case and as long as some other conditions are met you could just do an insert and liner. But I really doubt that is an option.

 

[wgiles654321]

My house has a late 70's Oliver MacLeod heat circulating Regal fireplace, model BI36 with an 8" flue. It is in a walk-out basement family room. It has a square A chimney which I understand is no longer up to code or WETT-certifiable.

The fireplace box is entirely within the foundation of the house, and there is a masonry chimney on the exterior of the house. The square A pipe exits the rear of the box at an angle, goes out over the half height foundation wall into the base of the masonry chimney, and then goes up inside the chimney which is about 20-25' high.

It would be nice to be able to burn wood (or pellets) in this room again. The fireplace is set in an attractive brick wall and it costs a fortune to heat the space using electric baseboards. We have a modern woodstove on the main floor with its own selkirk stovepipe so we have firewood on hand.

I am wondering if anyone knows enough about these square A chimneys to tell me if any of the following options are viable or reasonable. Or provide other suggestions if you have them.

• Remove square A pipe and replace with a modern liner inside brick chimney. (Can a modern pipe attach to an old fireplace like this?)
• Remove square A pipe and Regal fireplace and start from scratch with new fireplace and liner inside brick chimney.
• Remove regal fireplace, install new wood pellet insert, and drop a corrugated metal pipe down inside the square A chimney.
• Remove regal fireplace, install new wood pellet insert, and simply vent through the pony wall next to the masonry chimney.

Hello James,
I am in Toronto and trying to find someone to replace the damper on our old Oliver MacLeod fireplace. Do you have any suggestions from your explorations on this site or elsewhere. Thanks, Wenona

 

[CanFireman]

Oliver MacLeod went broke in the early 1990's. Assets were acquired by Security Chimneys.
Due to changes in codes/standards, any product that was made prior would be considered obsolete.

Security continued to make chimney under the Oliver MacLeod brand name until 2018. Was phased out then.
While they can still offer parts for some chimney products made 1996 and later, there are no parts available for appliances (fireplaces).

For James -- would suggest doing a complete re & re. Rip out that old fireplace & replace it. Attempting to reline a non-conforming factory-built chimney will not make it compliant with current standards. Even if it was, your fireplace would likely be over 40 years old. When it comes to the liner, any inspector who knows what they are looking at would flag it for remediation. This could impact your home insurance.

For Wenona -- unfortunately, you may be in the same boat. If you can find a contractor who is willing to replace the damper, part would be supplied by a third party (not Oliver MacLeod or Security Chimney). Be sure to check with your insurer to see if they are willing to cover your fireplace once repaired.

 

[FCBI]

My house has a late 70's Oliver MacLeod heat circulating Regal fireplace, model BI36 with an 8" flue. It is in a walk-out basement family room. It has a square A chimney which I understand is no longer up to code or WETT-certifiable.

The fireplace box is entirely within the foundation of the house, and there is a masonry chimney on the exterior of the house. The square A pipe exits the rear of the box at an angle, goes out over the half height foundation wall into the base of the masonry chimney, and then goes up inside the chimney which is about 20-25' high.

It would be nice to be able to burn wood (or pellets) in this room again. The fireplace is set in an attractive brick wall and it costs a fortune to heat the space using electric baseboards. We have a modern woodstove on the main floor with its own selkirk stovepipe so we have firewood on hand.

I am wondering if anyone knows enough about these square A chimneys to tell me if any of the following options are viable or reasonable. Or provide other suggestions if you have them.

• Remove square A pipe and replace with a modern liner inside brick chimney. (Can a modern pipe attach to an old fireplace like this?)
• Remove square A pipe and Regal fireplace and start from scratch with new fireplace and liner inside brick chimney.
• Remove regal fireplace, install new wood pellet insert, and drop a corrugated metal pipe down inside the square A chimney.
• Remove regal fireplace, install new wood pellet insert, and simply vent through the pony wall next to the masonry chimney.

Do you possibly have an install/owner's manual for the BI36?

 

[chimneychick]

You cannot reline any SS or Sq-A chimney with a liner to change its ratings nor function.
You will have to remove the chimney and install new according to the written instructions for the appliance in question.
Only utilize chimney that the manufacturer has approved
Or it is a gut job and all new code compliant system

 

[chimneychick]

Do you possibly have an install/owner's manual for the BI36?

sorry they are all on separate pages