Osburn 1800 Door Handle Getting Stuck, feels like I am going to tear the door off

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Dec 1, 2016
107
Milwaukee
Over the past few days, my door handle latch was getting harder and harder to use, and now it's almost seized. I'm not the only one with this issue:



I'm going to try to tap out the pin, unthread the entire handle, clean everything, and reinstall, but why is this happening? IS there a way to prevent it?

I've read some use graphite, others use high temp anti-seize. I am leaning towards anti-seize, if it works on spark plugs I would think it would work here.
 
Over the past few days, my door handle latch was getting harder and harder to use, and now it's almost seized. I'm not the only one with this issue:



I'm going to try to tap out the pin, unthread the entire handle, clean everything, and reinstall, but why is this happening? IS there a way to prevent it?

I've read some use graphite, others use high temp anti-seize. I am leaning towards anti-seize, if it works on spark plugs I would think it would work here.
I always use anti-seize
 
That is so aggravating and worrisome too... I have a stove that was brand new and I thought that when I opened the door that I pulled up on it to open because that's how the installer opened it..But in reality I was using it the wrong way and all I had to do was slide it level right to left or left to right and make sure it clicked in the square little area that sort of hooked it so that I could lock it...Just a suggestion here just in case you might have just thought you knew how to open it--nothing negative here but sometimes its a simple fix that you might have created the problem...I never used a wood stove before and you might be more experience and know how to open it but I thought that I would just suggest this...I would not use the stove until you solve this problem but it is a pita..clancey
 
God folking dammit. Whatever you do, do not buy a piece of chit osburn. I've been bracing it and using a hammer and a hardened punch shoved into where the stopper was trying to rotate this folking handle and now idk if I distored the whole god damn stove or if the door is bent but it doesn't even shut without the door smashing into the fan.

folk Osburn. This is folking stupid and it's OBVIOUSLY a problem as other people have posted about it and the only solution is to replace the entire folking door. I figured being a car guy a torch and wax would help, nope, somehow made it even more stuck. This sucks, this year I finally have a ton of wood and now I cannot even use the folking stove thanks to the piece of chit engineering by Osburn.
 
It's terrible and frustrating and my stove was a different brand but keep trying to get a hold of the installer and maybe they could order a new door or something--terrible situation and I feel for you..Wish I knew more about stoves but I don't but I think it was malfunctioned from the beginning for you to have such trouble with it especially since you know how to work it...Keep trying to contact the stove people everyday and write them letters as well to document everything and that's all you can do at this point...and maybe talk to BBB or something--other than that I do not know what I would do especially it being a insert and would not that complicate matters with the piping and stuff---don't know but feel for you and frustrating as well...Keep us posted...call Tom Martino on the radio he will bug them...old mrs clancey
 
I like oil better than wax. Have you tried letting oil soak in? Even if its only temporary and will flash off when lit, it should get you in. Then, I've had luck with graphite sprays.
 
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For what it's worth.on my osburn 2300 I had to put anti seize on a regular basis.my new 3300 I put anti seize on the door hinges and door handle as soon as I got the stove.good luck.im sure sbi will take care of you. message them
 
^^This^^ Contact SBI support.
 
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^^This^^ Contact SBI support.
Seconded. I have nothing but good things to say about my Osburn. The one issue I did have they handled in a timely manner. SBI is a huge company with plenty of resources and good customer service.
 
Let us know what sbi says.
 
Never heard back from them, pretty disappointed. Here's a video, so you can see how obnoxiously bad this was to fix.



Went into this thinking it would be a simple fix, was anything but simple.
 
Send them the video.that is total bs that they never got back to you
 
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Ok first off take the door off and clamp it to a bench. Clean up the threads on the back side with a die before trying to thread it out. And yes every stove latch should be lubricated every year. The hinge pins should be as well. I have never had an issue with the latch on these really. But those doors do like to sag.
 
Bholler's way sounds like a better way of doing it-but your video was real good but made a lot of extra work for yourself I think--not sure--but think..lol lol..Sure enjoyed it...old clancey
 
Wow,, thats pretty rough.. thats a long cheater bar that you needed.

I wonder if the threads became galled up from the latch being adjusted wrong to begin with.

The thread design should allow you to compensate for wear and tear needed. The hinges, latch, etc. But maybe, if not lubricated, the threads are fine enough they can distort with the torque?

I've had luck with spray graphite lubes wicking into the latch.
 
I didn't want to take the door off since it's hard to reach those fasteners, and then I'd have had to find a way to anchor the door from moving while getting the latch out. Leaving it attached at least anchored the door from moving or rotating.

I think the issue is idk if it was corrosion or dirt getting into the threads but once it started, it just got worse and worse and worse, and oil seemed to free it up for a minute, then rapidly get a LOT worse. Additional oiling didn't help at all.

Every other thread on this website about this issue resulted in replacing the entire damn door.
 
I didn't want to take the door off since it's hard to reach those fasteners, and then I'd have had to find a way to anchor the door from moving while getting the latch out. Leaving it attached at least anchored the door from moving or rotating.

I think the issue is idk if it was corrosion or dirt getting into the threads but once it started, it just got worse and worse and worse, and oil seemed to free it up for a minute, then rapidly get a LOT worse. Additional oiling didn't help at all.

Every other thread on this website about this issue resulted in replacing the entire damn door.
They didn't ask me. There is no reason to replace the whole door because of an issue like that with the latch. Worst case scenario you cut it off on the handle side and thread it through that way.
 
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