Over fire a free standing wood stove

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smmm

Member
Aug 1, 2010
75
Ohio
What are signs to look when you are over fire a stove?
 
During or after? If the things glowing, its a bad thing. If it warps, its a bad thing. If there are weld seams, shine a flashlight from the inside to see if the seams cracked thru. When the stoves cold. Stovetop thermo is your best friend. If the needle is buried, its a bad thing. Most stoves though can take some pretty high temps though. Mine has seen 750 on a few occasions when i wasnt paying attention, no harm done, although it was a bit unnerving the first time.
 
agartner said:
During or after? If the things glowing, its a bad thing. If it warps, its a bad thing. If there are weld seams, shine a flashlight from the inside to see if the seams cracked thru. When the stoves cold. Stovetop thermo is your best friend. If the needle is buried, its a bad thing. Most stoves though can take some pretty high temps though. Mine has seen 750 on a few occasions when i wasnt paying attention, no harm done, although it was a bit unnerving the first time.

Pretty well said all around . . . especially the part about the stove top thermometer.
 
smmm said:
What are signs to look when you are over fire a stove?

Anything over the stove's recommended top temp is an over fire. Having it happen occasionally, and briefly, is nothing to worry about. It happens to all of us. Consistently burning the hell out of the stove to the point that it is over firing will cause damage. Including, but not limited to; cracks, warps, discoloration, etc.
 
I had the same question on my new Englander 30.

The manual gives this warning: "DO NOT OVERFIRE. If the heater or chimney connector glows, you are overfiring". That seems obvious, but I couldn't find any reference to an "overfire" temperature. As I get to know this stove, what recommendation would you all have for a "cruising temp" and when should I be concerned about an "overfire" temp? My thermometer is on the top of the stove just South of the rise in the top.

Thanks!
 
Keep a good steel stove under 700 and you are golden. But don't get real concerned about the occasional trip a little over that. Yes you are shortening its life at high temps, plate steel just works that way. But it is by minutes. Not years.

I know one that didn't split down the middle at a thousand. But I don't advise trying it. Especially with a flat top plate stove.
 
wmarazita said:
I had the same question on my new Englander 30.

The manual gives this warning: "DO NOT OVERFIRE. If the heater or chimney connector glows, you are overfiring". That seems obvious, but I couldn't find any reference to an "overfire" temperature. As I get to know this stove, what recommendation would you all have for a "cruising temp" and when should I be concerned about an "overfire" temp? My thermometer is on the top of the stove just South of the rise in the top.

Thanks!

A recommendation like that is what it is. If it's glowing, it's too hot.

W/ a thermometer on that stove where you mentioned it is the hottest spot. For my own stove, I run between 550-650 normally (this time of year). When it's cold I'll bump that up to 750 for an average top end. It's damn cold, and the house matches, I'll let her see 850. Wife has had it 900+. It may go over 800 3 or 4 x per winter.

That's what I do, not saying it is right. Stove is on it's 4th year and no signs of warping, discoloration, or splitting in 1/2. Unit has never had a glow anywhere (couldn't say that for the old fisher) Original baffle boards are in place, original burn tubes look great when dusted off. Don't know if mine will last 10 years or 30 years the way I run it but for the price of this American made piece of steel and what I paid for it, I could replace it every few years and still be way ahead. I run it that way because that's what I need to keep this place comfortable.

To the Original Poster, while I haven't run your stove, that is another tough unit. I'd say looking at 700 as the redline for good high end temps and good life expectancy is a reasonable figure. It certainly takes more than that to start glowing.

pen
 
Thanks Pen and Bart.

Pen, I just saw the other thread on this topic with your response about the 30. Good info.

I still need to post some pictures to the group of my new install that everyone helped me through.

Thanks
 
And put your stove in your sig please.
 
Had my plate stove glowing once. Kinda scared me. As a kid my Dad warned us not to make the sides glow on the old cast cook stove. I saw that on a regular basis against Dads advice. Look for burned off paint and cracks as others have said... :gulp:
 
pen said:
wmarazita said:
I had the same question on my new Englander 30.

The manual gives this warning: "DO NOT OVERFIRE. If the heater or chimney connector glows, you are overfiring". That seems obvious, but I couldn't find any reference to an "overfire" temperature. As I get to know this stove, what recommendation would you all have for a "cruising temp" and when should I be concerned about an "overfire" temp? My thermometer is on the top of the stove just South of the rise in the top.

Thanks!

A recommendation like that is what it is. If it's glowing, it's too hot.

W/ a thermometer on that stove where you mentioned it is the hottest spot. For my own stove, I run between 550-650 normally (this time of year). When it's cold I'll bump that up to 750 for an average top end. It's damn cold, and the house matches, I'll let her see 850. Wife has had it 900+. It may go over 800 3 or 4 x per winter.

That's what I do, not saying it is right. Stove is on it's 4th year and no signs of warping, discoloration, or splitting in 1/2. Unit has never had a glow anywhere (couldn't say that for the old fisher) Original baffle boards are in place, original burn tubes look great when dusted off. Don't know if mine will last 10 years or 30 years the way I run it but for the price of this American made piece of steel and what I paid for it, I could replace it every few years and still be way ahead. I run it that way because that's what I need to keep this place comfortable.

To the Original Poster, while I haven't run your stove, that is another tough unit. I'd say looking at 700 as the redline for good high end temps and good life expectancy is a reasonable figure. It certainly takes more than that to start glowing.

pen
Well, after 40 years of burning wood to keep my butt warm, that sounds like some pretty sound, reasonable, and practical advise! My Dad had a Buck Stove like mine and he ran the damn thing wide open all the time and never ruined it. But then my Dad could get away with anything! I have always errored on the side of caution. My Buck looks like the day I installed it in 1982. It has been real hot more than once, but a well made stove will take a lot. Just use common sense. If you think it is to hot, it probably is. Just shut it down and it will most likely be fine. :coolsmirk:
 
Had an ol guy at a stove shop tell me to use hand near glass window as a guide. It should nearly burn the palm of your open hand at a 3 inch distance. If not, your not stoked enough. If it'll burn you from a foot away you are over firing. For me 700 stove top has the secondary tubes beginning to glow and she's hot at about 6 inches out. I've never had the stove top over 730 and never seen any part of it glow other than secondary tubes. 5 - 600 is good cruising speed here. 6 - 700 cleans the window.
 
I knew not to let it glow which it hasn't yet. Thing is I have the double wall black pipe and I'm sure if it starts glowing red I'm already in trouble. It hasn't yet either. I will pick up a thermometer today. Anyone know what temperatur the stove will start glowing?
 
I called Buck and the rep said as long as its not glowing. Wasnt happy with that so I called the dealer and he said 900-1000. Not sure if Im comfortable with that either. I stay under 650.
 
I love this forum. You guys are cool. No one has yet made fun of my novice questions.
Truely sincere. Thanks.
 
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smmm said:
I love this forum. You guys are cool. No one has yet made fun of my novice questions.
Truely sincere. Thanks.

I've never seen anyone here ever be rude or make fun of someone's question, with the possible exception of a couple of our old timers and their perpetual debate on the advantages and disadvantages of using horizontal vs vertical wood splitters.

In all seriousness though, we're here to help and there is a treasure trove of knowledge in the historical posts. I've learned more about burning my stove properly by just sitting down and either searching for various topics or just outright reading the discussion threads in these forums. Some of the threads are just entertaining in their own right, even if you don't learn anything!

Amazing place. Stay warm!
 
smmm said:
I love this forum. You guys are cool. No one has yet made fun of my novice questions.
Truely sincere. Thanks.
Hell, I been burnin for 40 years and I am still figuring it out......and loving every minute of it!!!!! ;-P
Oh, Love the "Spliter- me and excedrin " in the signature. When you get my age, you will add a 22 ton hydraulic splitter whether you like it or not :snake:
 
agartner said:
smmm said:
I love this forum. You guys are cool. No one has yet made fun of my novice questions.
Truely sincere. Thanks.

I've never seen anyone here ever be rude or make fun of someone's question, with the possible exception of a couple of our old timers and their perpetual debate on the advantages and disadvantages of using horizontal vs vertical wood splitters.

In all seriousness though, we're here to help and there is a treasure trove of knowledge in the historical posts. I've learned more about burning my stove properly by just sitting down and either searching for various topics or just outright reading the discussion threads in these forums. Some of the threads are just entertaining in their own right, even if you don't learn anything!

Amazing place. Stay warm!

Who you calling an "old timer" . . . and there is no debate . . . splitting horizontally is the correct and best way to split wood with a hydraulic splitter. ;)

But yeah . . . this is one of the most friendly sites to both newbies and veterans alike . . . and of course Dennis and I are good friends -- the fact is I tend to agree with about 99% of what he says and does.
 
I am glad my stove manufacturer gives me an actual number to shoot for..

I am pretty sure that by the time I get that rock glowing and flowing, "an overfire" has in fact, occurred.

As a side note, about 15 years ago my parents had a large 440v 3 phase kiln "run away" on them. when they realized it, the cover was actually floating above the chamber a bit.. It melted the ceramic trays inside, that they place the objects on to be fired.. all was "slag" in the bottom when it cooled, which took two and a half days. My dad now jokes that besides him and God, he knows no one who has made his own lava.
 
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