Hi All,
I am running an Osburn 1600 insert with very nice dry Ash so far this season (16-18% fresh split @ room temp) and its been going great. I typically get her to 450 ish and start shutting down in stages, then cruise around 600-650 through off gassing with the air anywhere from 90-100% closed depending on how much wood is in there, then down to that nice 400-450 coaling stage. I typically get around 5-7 hours on a regular load on a cold day which I think is pretty solid for a little 1.8 cf box.
My question is on overnight burns:
I basically follow the same plan except I have the box stuffed to the gills with large splits and small splits filling the gaps. I try to fit as much mass as I can in there. This usually around 10 pm ish. Once its cruising comfortably I'll hit the sack.
I usually get up around 7 or 7:30 to a stove at around 200 degrees but I can dig up ample coals to get started again. So I'm able to get a nice 9 hours out of a big boy load which is great. I usually use a couple small splits ran wide open to get back to temp then do a real reload at 300.
What I have noticed though is the glass/interior around the door can be a little brown in the morning. Nothing thick and mostly powder to the touch. A good hot fire in the morning cleans it all right off. There's a little more black deposit sometimes on the back bottom if the stove on the metal between the bricks that is rough/firm, probably where a log was resting against it. This also typically dissappears after a big hit fire.
Is this normal for extended overnight burns? It makes sense to me that as it cools down with the air fully closed overnight there may be a little soot. Ive also noticed that my chimney cap gets a little brown too, especially after I let the stove go out on a warm day. Seems like the same principle.
I feel like I'm hitting all my temps and using good wood but being a rookie this year I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Thanks
PS - All the temps im referring to are STT via magnetic and verified with an IR. My insert protrudes a fair bit so I can get the center of the top with the IR gun.
I am running an Osburn 1600 insert with very nice dry Ash so far this season (16-18% fresh split @ room temp) and its been going great. I typically get her to 450 ish and start shutting down in stages, then cruise around 600-650 through off gassing with the air anywhere from 90-100% closed depending on how much wood is in there, then down to that nice 400-450 coaling stage. I typically get around 5-7 hours on a regular load on a cold day which I think is pretty solid for a little 1.8 cf box.
My question is on overnight burns:
I basically follow the same plan except I have the box stuffed to the gills with large splits and small splits filling the gaps. I try to fit as much mass as I can in there. This usually around 10 pm ish. Once its cruising comfortably I'll hit the sack.
I usually get up around 7 or 7:30 to a stove at around 200 degrees but I can dig up ample coals to get started again. So I'm able to get a nice 9 hours out of a big boy load which is great. I usually use a couple small splits ran wide open to get back to temp then do a real reload at 300.
What I have noticed though is the glass/interior around the door can be a little brown in the morning. Nothing thick and mostly powder to the touch. A good hot fire in the morning cleans it all right off. There's a little more black deposit sometimes on the back bottom if the stove on the metal between the bricks that is rough/firm, probably where a log was resting against it. This also typically dissappears after a big hit fire.
Is this normal for extended overnight burns? It makes sense to me that as it cools down with the air fully closed overnight there may be a little soot. Ive also noticed that my chimney cap gets a little brown too, especially after I let the stove go out on a warm day. Seems like the same principle.
I feel like I'm hitting all my temps and using good wood but being a rookie this year I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Thanks
PS - All the temps im referring to are STT via magnetic and verified with an IR. My insert protrudes a fair bit so I can get the center of the top with the IR gun.