P 43 warm after 12 hours being off

[mr meener]

I have noticed the last 2 times I shut down my P43 stove for more then 12 hours it still was very warm like 100 degrees on the magnetic temp gauge on the top. I opened the door and could not believe the heat coming out. so I went to clean it and when I took off the plate under the ash pot stuck my gloved finger in to clean all the ash away from the igniter glowing embers came out?? the source of the heat. is it possible the igniter is always on acting like electric heat slowly burning what ever pellets are left? on the control board it does not show the igniter lite on just the power lite. I did blow a fuse on the control board stupidly opening the door while the igniter was on. it starts up fine. I wonder if any one else had this happen

 

[zrock]

its probably just the pellets slowly smoldering away since they will have no air flow. Iv seen the clinkers and buildup in my post stay lit for hours afterwards.

 

[tlc1976]

Could always unplug the stove next time after it's done shutting down and see if it still does it. That would rule out the igniter.

 

[TonyVideo]

If shut down when running it high it will take a while. A little unusual though after 12 hours to be at 100. Covered up embers will stay warm a long time. I remember in my youth packing a wood stove by taking all the embers and shoving them to one side and covering them with ash and they were still usable to start a fire at 12 hours.

 

[MarkF48]

You may have a different control, so may not apply. I shut mine off (Harman XXV) using the Stove/Room temp knob by putting it to the 'center' position. A least twice I may have been off center just a bit and I found the stove to be running at a real low idle. I had been thinking possibly a dirty or bad pot when this happened, but since being more careful getting the control knob to center it's been shutting down properly.

 

[Overfireinthehole]

There’s something in those circuit boards that will short and cause the igniter to run full time. Usually when that happens you’ll start blowing fuses left and right till you replace the board. Had one the other day that would run with a new fuse for 6-12 hours. Once I figured out the igniter was staying on and replaced the board it’s been fine ever since. That being said, if your igniter isn’t staying on, you could be clogged up in the flu or your combustion blower could be shutting off early due to inaccurate esp readings.

 

[mr meener]

Could always unplug the stove next time after it's done shutting down and see if it still does it. That would rule out the igniter.

that is what I did and it cooled down quickly. I wonder how the igniter could be doing that. the light for the igniter is off after it lights and never goes on unless igniting the pellets

 

[mr meener]

There’s something in those circuit boards that will short and cause the igniter to run full time. Usually when that happens you’ll start blowing fuses left and right till you replace the board. Had one the other day that would run with a new fuse for 6-12 hours. Once I figured out the igniter was staying on and replaced the board it’s been fine ever since. That being said, if your igniter isn’t staying on, you could be clogged up in the flu or your combustion blower could be shutting off early due to inaccurate esp readings.

was your ignitor light staying on all that time? sorry for delayed response cause I only got one email with one response

 

[tlc1976]

There’s something in those circuit boards that will short and cause the igniter to run full time. Usually when that happens you’ll start blowing fuses left and right till you replace the board. Had one the other day that would run with a new fuse for 6-12 hours. Once I figured out the igniter was staying on and replaced the board it’s been fine ever since. That being said, if your igniter isn’t staying on, you could be clogged up in the flu or your combustion blower could be shutting off early due to inaccurate esp readings.

I would think it would be wired so when the igniter is intended to be on, the control board lights a light and sends a small amount of power to a relay. This relay would control the actual ignitor, and keep 300 watts or so from going through the control board. Pretty sure mine is this way, it makes the most sense.

Well sometimes relays go bad and stick. Which might be the case with yours. If it sticks closed, then the ignitor stays powered up, totally regardless of what the control board is trying to tell it to do.

The relay might be separate and easy to replace, or might be built into the control board.

 

[mr meener]

I would think it would be wired so when the igniter is intended to be on, the control board lights a light and sends a small amount of power to a relay. This relay would control the actual ignitor, and keep 300 watts or so from going through the control board. Pretty sure mine is this way, it makes the most sense.

Well sometimes relays go bad and stick. Which might be the case with yours. If it sticks closed, then the ignitor stays powered up, totally regardless of what the control board is trying to tell it to do.

The relay might be separate and easy to replace, or might be built into the control board.

my ignitor light works when sparking up the pellets and light goes out when they are lit. but after 12 hours stove was still warm. it was never like that. so I pull the plug out after it powers off. I hope the ignitor isn't on while the stove is running cause the light is out

 

[tlc1976]

my ignitor light works when sparking up the pellets and light goes out when they are lit. but after 12 hours stove was still warm. it was never like that. so I pull the plug out after it powers off. I hope the ignitor isn't on while the stove is running cause the light is out

Yes exactly. The light goes off because the control board is telling the relay to disconnect the ignitor from the supply voltage. The board assumes it successfully turned the ignitor off. But if the relay is physically stuck, then it will keep supplying voltage to the ignitor, yes even when burning.

As a crude temporary workaround you could disconnect one igniter lead once the stove is burning. Protect what you disconnect because there will be exposed hot voltage there. Reconnect again when ready to start.

 

[mr meener]

Yes exactly. The light goes off because the control board is telling the relay to disconnect the ignitor from the supply voltage. The board assumes it successfully turned the ignitor off. But if the relay is physically stuck, then it will keep supplying voltage to the ignitor, yes even when burning.

As a crude temporary workaround you could disconnect one igniter lead once the stove is burning. Protect what you disconnect because there will be exposed hot voltage there. Reconnect again when ready to start.

where would the leads to the ignitor be?

 

[Overfireinthehole]

You have to pull them from beneath the burn pot. Usually the wires are zip tied in the back of the stove so you might have to cut those first.

 

[mr meener]

the ignitor is definitely staying on. stove was unplugged overnight I plugged it in not to start it up cause I turned the thermostat all the way down and within an hour the heat was coming off the burn pot. I unplugged it and it cooled down. I believe this started about 10 days ago when I started the stove ignitor on and I opened the door and the 6 amp fuse blew. I put in a new one and all seemed well but now the ignitor wont go off. do I need a new control board? I am guessing I burned out a relay to the ignitor like another has said and I wonder where the relay is and can I replace that. hopefully it might be part of the ignitor

 

[MarkF48]

The control board does not appear to have a 'relay' as such, but looks to have possibly thyristors/SCR's to control the power to the ignitor. In the Amazon link below, these would be the four black devices near the white connector block. I would believe the only recourse would be a new control board unless some others may have some ideas.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IA4T554/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[mr meener]

The control board does not appear to have a 'relay' as such, but looks to have possibly thyristors/SCR's to control the power to the ignitor. In the Amazon link below, these would be the four black devices near the white connector block. I would believe the only recourse would be a new control board unless some others may have some ideas.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IA4T554/?tag=hearthamazon-20

that control board went up from 175 just a few years ago. damn these computer controlled units. gas stoves and washing machines that would last 30 years now barely go five years with the stupid electronics going bad