Pacific Energy Alderlea T6 door sag, spacer death, hinge plate replacement due to wear.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

T6ter

New Member
Oct 14, 2026
8
4th Corner
Over the past few winters, I have been having problems with the door sagging such that it had to be lifted up into place in order to latch it. Long story shortish, there is supposed to be a bronze or brass 5/16 x 9/16 x 1/4" spacer that sits between the door and the hinge bracket on the lower hinge pin. On my 20+-year-old stove, this apparently wore totally away, leaving just a yellowish stain on the lower pin. Without the spacer to hold the upper pin securely in the upper pin hole, the pin can and did slip out of place due to the weight and leverage the door exerts on the connection. Thus, my problem.

Having a basic mechanical perspective on the situation, but not understanding the specs or possibilities, I added some steel washers on the lower pin, which helped a bit, but failed to work long-term. I did not understand that there should have been 1/4' worth. So, the top pin continued to slip out of its retaining hole on occasion. In the process of wrestling the top pin back home, a recent examination with my cell phone camera revealed that I had gouged a channel in the area of the bracket leading to the hole. This led me to the present, where I wanted to fix the stove properly.

I looked at the parts diagram for the stove and saw that they offered a hinge pin set and a replacement hinge plate/bracket, so I figured that would be the ticket. Enter the supply chain and technical assistance scenario. I bought the stove from Tom at the Chimney Sweep in Bellingham, WA. The store and likely Tom are long gone. The manufacturer is not very far from me, crow-wise, but there is no stocking dealer anywhere within 100 miles of me. Of the dealers listed, there are two within that range, but neither knows much about the PE stoves nor carries any parts for them, and parts delivery was predicted at least a month. So, figuring going north to a Canadian dealer would bring a quick resolution. One would think.

The manufacturer does not sell directly to the public, so I located the closest Canadian dealer and called them. The Canadian dealer was pleasant and helpful, but had not seen my issue before and could only offer basic advice. He did not stock these esoteric parts, but could get them, and predicted delivery in under two weeks. Hoping for a quick delivery, I ordered them, as SWMBO is getting chilly at night and running an electric heater is expensive. Well, the dealer orders from a distributor who orders from the manufacturer. Yeah, you guessed it, I'm still waiting, three weeks so far. Hopefully next week.

This brings us to the current situation. I removed the door, replaced the gasket, and attempted to remove the hinge bracket. I got the three 3/8' screws that hold the bracket in place. Back and side clearances were an issue, and getting them restarted will be fun, for which I have found tweezers or a small hemostat to be of great help. AND, the bracket will not come away from the stove. None of the dealers I talked to had a clue. I tracked down the direct phone number for Pacific Energy (1-250-748-1184), hit 2 (recently changed?) for technical help, and talked directly to the manufacturer. I learned a lot, or some things anyway. I learned the specs on the spacer, which is part of the pin kit but not sold separately, but is available in steel at a local hardware store; I learned that the pins are epoxied in place and judged near indestructible and never likely to need replacing; I learned that the hinge pins and bracket were the same on several stoves (do check the bracket part# before you order); and I was told that the hinge bracket/plate should just come out with the screws removed. But it does not! It's loose; it wiggles up and down, back and forth, but it feels as if it is being stopped by something solid or keyed in place. So, HELP with this. I contacted another large Canadian dealer in Ontario for wisdom, but they refused to even comment on the issue due to all sorts of things.

So, have any of your Hearthers had experience with these issues, or particularly knowledge as to whether the hinge bracket should just come out, as the manufacturer's techie stated? Or what? Get the jaws of life out?
TIA for any wisdom.
Dennis
 
Well, I put the stove back together, temporarily, most likely, while I await parts and the weather cools off. Reinstalling the hinge plate was an exercise in frustration for a while and a good workout. I should weigh the door next time I have it off. I put the door back on with a steel spacer rather than the brass one that is the OEM part. I could find a steel one; no luck on brass, at Hardware Sales in Bellingham that has a gazillion fasteners of all sorts, but not this spacer in brass. I spent a good bit of time today looking online for one that spec'd out, with no joy. It may well be a custom-made item. I question the long-term use of the steel washer because of wear and tear on the other components, but it works now, and messing with success at this point is not appealing.

Here are some observations and workarounds on the R&R of the hinge plate. There are three heavy-duty screws that hold the thing in place. The middle hole in the plate provides a little wiggle room to move the plate around, to facilitate aligning the top and bottom screws. The clearance between these 3/8" hex-head screws and the outer shell of the stove is the bare minimum to get the things out and particularly back in. In removing the screws, the bottom one was really tight and required some taps on the box-end wrench with a rubber mallet to break it free. There is just enough clearance on the top and bottom to get a thin box-end wrench in there. Once loosened, getting them out the rest of the way was a fingertip operation, with the top of the screw just shy of the shell. Getting them back in was an exercise in patience and dexterity. I got the two lower ones started myself using a hemostat to maneuver the screw into position and insert the tip into the hole in the plate, doing my best to keep it from falling out before I could get my fingers on it. The top screw was in such a tight spot that I had to recruit the wife and her much smaller fingers to get it started. I only had to chase the screws around under the stove three or four times. In putting the hinge bracket back on, it was apparent that it was not adjustable for adjusting the door fit. Good news, as that was one thing less to worry about.

Putting the door back on was a wrestling match, but I found a couple of things that made it easier. Placing a flashlight on the grid above the upper hinge pin hole and shining through made it easy to visualize the pin when trying to get it in place. I tried having my wife communicate on pin alignment, but had more success maneuvering the door while looking down at the hole and hoping my back wouldn't give out. Having a flashlight aimed at the bottom hole helped a lot in getting that pin back where it belonged. There was great frustration on previous attempts to put the door back on with some washers for spacers, needing three coordinated hands to jocky the door and keep the washers in place. It came to me last night to hold the spacer in place with a piece of masking tape. Poke a hole for the pin first. Worked like a champ.

So the T6 is back together and warming the living room, and SWMBO is happy again.
 
Wow! When the part comes in can you post some pics of the pieces and wear? I’ve never noticed any wear when I’ve had my T5 door off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Burnin Since 1991
Well, I put the stove back together, temporarily, most likely, while I await parts and the weather cools off. Reinstalling the hinge plate was an exercise in frustration for a while and a good workout. I should weigh the door next time I have it off. I put the door back on with a steel spacer rather than the brass one that is the OEM part. I could find a steel one; no luck on brass, at Hardware Sales in Bellingham that has a gazillion fasteners of all sorts, but not this spacer in brass. I spent a good bit of time today looking online for one that spec'd out, with no joy. It may well be a custom-made item. I question the long-term use of the steel washer because of wear and tear on the other components, but it works now, and messing with success at this point is not appealing.

Here are some observations and workarounds on the R&R of the hinge plate. There are three heavy-duty screws that hold the thing in place. The middle hole in the plate provides a little wiggle room to move the plate around, to facilitate aligning the top and bottom screws. The clearance between these 3/8" hex-head screws and the outer shell of the stove is the bare minimum to get the things out and particularly back in. In removing the screws, the bottom one was really tight and required some taps on the box-end wrench with a rubber mallet to break it free. There is just enough clearance on the top and bottom to get a thin box-end wrench in there. Once loosened, getting them out the rest of the way was a fingertip operation, with the top of the screw just shy of the shell. Getting them back in was an exercise in patience and dexterity. I got the two lower ones started myself using a hemostat to maneuver the screw into position and insert the tip into the hole in the plate, doing my best to keep it from falling out before I could get my fingers on it. The top screw was in such a tight spot that I had to recruit the wife and her much smaller fingers to get it started. I only had to chase the screws around under the stove three or four times. In putting the hinge bracket back on, it was apparent that it was not adjustable for adjusting the door fit. Good news, as that was one thing less to worry about.

Putting the door back on was a wrestling match, but I found a couple of things that made it easier. Placing a flashlight on the grid above the upper hinge pin hole and shining through made it easy to visualize the pin when trying to get it in place. I tried having my wife communicate on pin alignment, but had more success maneuvering the door while looking down at the hole and hoping my back wouldn't give out. Having a flashlight aimed at the bottom hole helped a lot in getting that pin back where it belonged. There was great frustration on previous attempts to put the door back on with some washers for spacers, needing three coordinated hands to jocky the door and keep the washers in place. It came to me last night to hold the spacer in place with a piece of masking tape. Poke a hole for the pin first. Worked like a champ.

So the T6 is back together and warming the living room, and SWMBO is happy again.
I'd check Amazon.com. Here is what I found on Amazon.ca. I have found all kinds of hard to get parts on line.
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] Pacific Energy Alderlea T6 door sag, spacer death, hinge plate replacement due to wear.
    Brass Washers.webp
    194.3 KB · Views: 17
  • Like
Reactions: Burnin Since 1991
Wow! When the part comes in can you post some pics of the pieces and wear? I’ve never noticed any wear when I’ve had my T5 door off.
Will do. Before I put the steel spacer in, I had to lever off the little scrap that remained of the original brass spacer. Paper-thin, with enough core to keep it on the pin. I'll get a photo of that. The door of the T6 is 29" while the T5 lists at 25". I can't could it be that the extra 4" exerts that much more pressure on the hinge parts? Seems unlikely.
 
I'd check Amazon.com. Here is what I found on Amazon.ca. I have found all kinds of hard to get parts on line.
I looked at a lot of web pages, and none that I could find listed a brass or bronze bushing that had an interior dimension of 5/16, an outer of 9/16 and a thickness of 1/4". With the tight clearances at the bottom of the hinge, I think that anything over 9/16 would not fit, and the thickness of 1/4" is apparently necessary to keep the top pin securely seated. Brass is indicated as the best choice for wear resistance and lubricity by several websites. Let us know if you have better luck, and find a spacer with all the magic..
 
Might be unlikely, but it seemed to have happened. I’d think they’d have used steel if it wasn’t supposed to be a wear point. They wanted it softer than the pin. Then it could be a million different variables, low lube, bad brass alloy, more pressure on the door when closing it. More frequent reloads adding up over years…. And it could be all of them added together.

I figure to some extent it must be a known event if the parts exist to repair it.
 
Interesting issue. This is where it would be good to know a machinist - probably a pretty easy part to make for one of them