Pacific Energy Spectrum 27 Series/Door Handle Question

[DOC Robbins]

Hi Community,

Newbie here. Can someone please tell me the proper way to install the door handle latch? The one I have now is old and wobbly. I need to know how to take it off and put a new one on. Pictures would be great if you have any? Many thanks.

 

[jeff_t]

Which one do you currently have? Is it threaded into the door?

I just did this yesterday. Thought about taking some pics, after it was to late

My new one isn't much less wobbly, but the door closes tight now.

 

[DOC Robbins]

Hi Jeff, thanks for responding. My wood stove is the Pacific Energy Spectrum Super 27. The handle is threaded (see attached photo.) I didn't think a door should be loose when on the door? I have no idea how to take the old one off and how to install the new door. Can you explain how its done please? Thank you.

 

[jeff_t]

Are you replacing the door, handle, or both?

The handle you have pictured is the 'hex bore', and is no longer available.

The current universal replacement requires drilling out the threads, installing a bushing, the handle, a series of flat washers, wavy washers, and a pin. With the cast door being about 1/4" thick, and a stack of washers like this, there's bound to be some play. Not impressed, but it's better than it was.



My problem was that the E-clip you have pictured was missing, and had been for quite some time. The handle was extremely sloppy and worn in places that couldn't be fixed by simply replacing the E-clip.

 

[DOC Robbins]

Hi Jeff, from the beginning the handle has always been a problem as I could never seem to get the hexagon nut tight enough. Yesterday, I took the door off and tried tightening the nut again but to no avail. I did however manage to use a tool to "fluff" up the door gasket as it’s quite old. The latch is snug when closed and I do notice a big difference in both consumption of wood and longer burn times. Next week I'll replace the gasket and perhaps install a new handle because I had purchased a couple back in the day. Do you have any suggestions as to how to best remove the door gasket? I thought that any leftover residue could be removed with a small wood chisel and then finish it off with course steel wool? Are you aware of the size of the door gasket? I also need to replace the baffle gasket and I just know that's going to be a real treat because I refuse to buy the cheap ones that Pacific Energy sell because they break too easily. I read a thread about using 3/8 " rope (the same as the one used in the door gasket.) Thanks for taking an interest in helping me out. Happy New Year.

 

[thechimneysweep]

Hi Jeff, from the beginning the handle has always been a problem as I could never seem to get the hexagon nut tight enough. Yesterday, I took the door off and tried tightening the nut again but to no avail. I did however manage to use a tool to "fluff" up the door gasket as it’s quite old. The latch is snug when closed and I do notice a big difference in both consumption of wood and longer burn times. Next week I'll replace the gasket and perhaps install a new handle because I had purchased a couple back in the day. Do you have any suggestions as to how to best remove the door gasket? I thought that any leftover residue could be removed with a small wood chisel and then finish it off with course steel wool? Are you aware of the size of the door gasket? I also need to replace the baffle gasket and I just know that's going to be a real treat because I refuse to buy the cheap ones that Pacific Energy sell because they break too easily. I read a thread about using 3/8 " rope (the same as the one used in the door gasket.) Thanks for taking an interest in helping me out. Happy New Year.

If the photo you posted above is of one of the new ones you purchased "back in the day," let's label the parts. Starting on the right, you have the handle shaft, a spring washer, a threaded bushing, and a keeper nut. In front is an E clip, which snaps into a groove in the handle shaft which is currently hidden in your photo by the keeper nut.

First, remove the old E clip, if it is still there. Then peel back the door gasket to expose the old keeper nut and remove it. Next, back out the threaded bushing and the whole assembly will come out. Insert the new handle and tighten the threaded bushing, then secure it on the inside with the keeper nut. Finally, push in on the outside of the handle to flatten the spring washer enough to expose the groove on the inside, and snap the E clip into the groove.

 

[DOC Robbins]

Hi Tom, yes I did purchase the stove back in the day. Everything is as you say and the e clip is intact. The whole handle assembly is wobbly and the wood handle gets hot during the burn stage. It just has never made much sense that with all parts in place that the handle should be like this (loose.) I had the door off the unit yesterday and "fluffed up" the door gasket with a crochet needle which helped, however now its 1/2 of one and 1/2 of another because the latch to the door is real tight when I close the door and secure it. I'll be replacing the door gasket shortly and will install a new spare handle I purchased several years ago. If that doesn't resolve after a new gasket and handle its back to the drawing board and perhaps just a new stove to upgrade. Do you know off hand what diameter the door gasket is? Many thanks for responding.

 

[thechimneysweep]

Hi Tom, yes I did purchase the stove back in the day. Everything is as you say and the e clip is intact. The whole handle assembly is wobbly and the wood handle gets hot during the burn stage. It just has never made much sense that with all parts in place that the handle should be like this (loose.) I had the door off the unit yesterday and "fluffed up" the door gasket with a crochet needle which helped, however now its 1/2 of one and 1/2 of another because the latch to the door is real tight when I close the door and secure it. I'll be replacing the door gasket shortly and will install a new spare handle I purchased several years ago. If that doesn't resolve after a new gasket and handle its back to the drawing board and perhaps just a new stove to upgrade. Do you know off hand what diameter the door gasket is? Many thanks for responding.

The older models used 1/2" high-density door gasket. 5/8" low-density gasket also works.

 

[DOC Robbins]

Hi gentlemen, well, I installed a 5/8 inch gasket the other day and also installed the spare handle and everything seemed to go together very well. During the last couple of days, I have noticed a problem while burning. I am getting a buildup of residue on the bottom of the window. Also, on the baffle, about half of it has soot but only on one side until its burned off during the operating stage of the fire. I looked at the new rope gasket and there seems to be a couple of places that have no indentations of coming into contact with the door frame, however the door does shut tight. I used plenty of gasket cement so I don't think that air is leaking under the gasket. I purchased a high temp gasket/gasket cement and thought I would run a bead around the glass window (in case of air leakage) and also a bead around the door handle and outside edge of the rope gasket that was just installed. I'll hold off doing this in hopes you will make any suggestions before I get too involved with the task in the morning. The weather is about - 35 C here so whatever I end up doing, it will have to be at least a 3 hour wait time until the gasket cement dries enough to do a burn. Many thanks.

 

[DOC Robbins]

The older models used 1/2" high-density door gasket. 5/8" low-density gasket also works.

Thank you for getting back to meTom. When the stove was in its prime, I always used to see the flames coming from the holes in the top of the baffle. Now a days, I haven't seen this for quite some time. It seems the baffle gasket is sealing the baffle pretty good. Any information would be helpful. Many thanks.