Wondering when it's time to replace baffle? When it no longer stays put (too warped) or any other consideration? Just looked at the part prices and they are insane. Mine's still in place but looks to be warping a bit. Any other alternative baffles or options? Can it be pressed back into shape?
Pacific Energy Summit Insert Baffle replacement
- Thread starter davidon
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I think its as you describe ( a bit of sag). Insert has got to be from 2016. Linear is about 25 ft. Fire is running right now so would be hard to see with a pic at the moment.
The draft may be quite strong which could mean that the stove is being run on the very hot side. Continually running it at very high temps will cause premature wear. Typically this first show up in baffle sag. Try turning down the air sooner and more aggressively to reduce sudden outgassing of the wood and subsequent bloom of strong secondary combustion.
They can deflect more than that. It depends on the baffle design which has changed over the years and though similar, is not the same across all PE models. The older ones tended to bow over time with hard use, while the newer ones can sag but not bow due to stiffeners. Here is one that had to be changed due to finally starting to crack. It's from @Sodbuster's stove. I think this was from around 2014?? Maybe he can give an update on how the replacement is doing.
For some reason, our baffle of a similar vintage has not seriously sagged or bowed after 14 seasons of use.
For some reason, our baffle of a similar vintage has not seriously sagged or bowed after 14 seasons of use.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
I've burned with one similar to the one shown. If it stays up on the rails, and throws secondaries, it's doing it's job, and no biggie. All it is, is a box with jet holes and heats up and burns nasties with the superheated air, resulting in jet flames. It will not stay perfect. It's a massive mass of heavy stainless over a mass area. Sagging will happen.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
I think that at one point I layed something on top of the back rail on my SIL's T5 to seal the gap a bit (in addition to making a Hogwildz donut gasket out of rope for around the secondary air tube entry.) Can't recall if I just put a piece of interam gasket along the top of the rail, or what exactly I did, but after a couple baffle removals to sweep the chimney, it's probably gone by now. The warp across the back of her baffle isn't too extreme--probably less than 1/4".
My new baffle is not warping in the front like my old one you see here. It does have a sag in the back, and we need to be careful loading it to not dislodge the baffle. It works just fine. What I can't believe is that I am still on the original door gasket!!
For some reference, I just picked up a new baffle for our fp30. I went to the local shop where I purchased the fireplace. Their pricing was significantly lower than any online retail prices I have seen. Like a couple hundred bucks at least cheaper.
Getting back to this. Noticed there is an alternative baffle someone made for a different model for less than half the price of OEM but will not fit the summit. Mine can still be used so I will use it. Someone should make some of these. All other OEM parts are good except for the bricks.
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