Pacific Energy Summit Series A pedestal stove Low heat output

[rut]

This stove is a 2005 vintage and I have never thought it produced as much heat as it should. I thought that part of the problem was because there is an outside housing and the other was there may be too much of the heat going up the chimney.
It has about 20 feet of double wall 6 inch pipe with a few 45 elbows. Mostly straight up.
Could there be too much draft?
I have a thermometer that goes right through the two walls of the pipe about 18-20 inches up from the stove. It ia fairly difficult to get the heat up close to the danger zone. I mainly burn oak that has aged for 2 years. Moisture content is about 17%.
Any thoughts on where to start troubleshooting?

 

[begreen]

Tell us a bit about how the stove is being run, what the air control is set to, etc. What temperature are you seeing on the flue probe? Is there a thermometer on the stovetop? If so, what temps there?

The installation is not too dissimilar to ours. A 20' flue should be fine. Did you buy the stove new or is it used? What shape is the baffle in? (pics welcome)

 

[rut]

Tell us a bit about how the stove is being run, what the air control is set to, etc. What temperature are you seeing on the flue probe? Is there a thermometer on the stovetop? If so, what temps there?

The installation is not too dissimilar to ours. A 20' flue should be fine. Did you buy the stove new or is it used? What shape is the baffle in? (pics welcome)

I am not presently at the site of the stove. I go there periodically. I have owned the stove since new. Now 17 years old. I believe the baffle is sound, I can't see any dererioration. I don't have a stt thermometer but I do have an infrared thermometer that I could use. I usually run the air control wide open until I get to the safe burning zone then cut it back to 50-75 % closed . Sometimes the flue temp drops so I have to open it up again.
What things should I check when I go back to the stove site?

 

[stoveliker]

A few pics of the set up would be useful too.

Is this in an alcove? Is the chimney chase (if any) properly sealed off at the bottom (see block off plate and insulation for inserts)?

How full do you load the stove?

(The dreaded question: how did you measure the moisture content? On a room temperature piece that was just freshly split?)

 

[rut]

A few pics of the set up would be useful too.

Is this in an alcove? Is the chimney chase (if any) properly sealed off at the bottom (see block off plate and insulation for inserts)?

How full do you load the stove?

(The dreaded question: how did you measure the moisture content? On a room temperature piece that was just freshly split?)

Can't get pics until I go back to the stove location. Not in an alcove, no chimney chase . All double wall insulated pipe. Loading of stove varies. Moisture checked on freshly split but maybe not room temp. Some of the wood may be slightly more moist but not as much as 20%.

 

[stoveliker]

That sounds good. Any chance you are living far above sea level? (Just throwing out some random brain farts...)

And can you define "not enough" heat? How big is the space you are intending to heat, how is it partitioned (rooms, doors, ceiling height), how well insulated, what is the climate you are in, what is the temperature you are trying to achieve, and with what reload schedule.

 

[rut]

That sounds good. Any chance you are living far above sea level? (Just throwing out some random brain farts...)

And can you define "not enough" heat? How big is the space you are intending to heat, how is it partitioned (rooms, doors, ceiling height), how well insulated, what is the climate you are in, what is the temperature you are trying to achieve, and with what reload schedule.

Not much above sea level. Great Lakes specifically Georgian Bay. Fairly large dwelling . 1800 sq ft. Typically 8 foot ceiling height. Not lots of interior doors for partitioning and spread out. Moderate insulation. Difficult to maintain at 70F with typical winter 25F outside temps. Reload schedule is what ever it takes.

 

[stoveliker]

Of course the farther located spaces will be cooler, but 70 in the main (open) core should be doable if insulation is fair, at 25 F, imo.

Struggling to keep 70 F "on whatever reload is needed" means that you're burning with wide open air all the time...? (b/c you can't get 70, so you crank, leading to short burn times?)

Do you have an outside air kit?

Are you sure your stove is not leaking air in (pumping way more heat up the flue because of the larger airflow)?
(See dollar bill test on any gaskets, see if the window is still properly stuck (two flat hands on both sides of a cold window should not move it in plane).)

I presume this is not the case, but let's ask anyway: if the stove room is "80F", and the rest much colder, it's a heat spreading issue.

I don't know the stove well beyond looking a bit at some online info (begreen does much better), but I am not clear yet whether this is a stove issue or another issue (heat spreading, heat loss up the chimney, or other).

 

[rut]

Of course the farther located spaces will be cooler, but 70 in the main (open) core should be doable if insulation is fair, at 25 F, imo.

Struggling to keep 70 F "on whatever reload is needed" means that you're burning with wide open air all the time...? (b/c you can't get 70, so you crank, leading to short burn times?)

Do you have an outside air kit?

Are you sure your stove is not leaking air in (pumping way more heat up the flue because of the larger airflow)?
(See dollar bill test on any gaskets, see if the window is still properly stuck (two flat hands on both sides of a cold window should not move it in plane).)

I presume this is not the case, but let's ask anyway: if the stove room is "80F", and the rest much colder, it's a heat spreading issue.

I don't know the stove well beyond looking a bit at some online info (begreen does much better), but I am not clear yet whether this is a stove issue or another issue (heat spreading, heat loss up the chimney, or other).

Don't have an outside air kit. It is not a "heat spreading issue" 80F in room it is located is not obtainable.
Gasket may be suspect but how would that affect stove output? Will do dollar bill test. Heat through the glass is fairly good but stove surface temp seems low.

 

[stoveliker]

Gasket could affect stove output by allowing too much air, and thus pumping too much (then hot) gases (=BTUs) thru the chimney.

If the inside of the stove (baffles and what not) are ok, then I would think it's a home heat loss (i.e. insulation) issue. Many windows (double pane)? Crawl space underneath (insulated floor or not)?

But, I'm out of ideas, so I'll have to let the more knowledgeable folks take it from here, I think.

 

[begreen]

I am not presently at the site of the stove. I go there periodically. I have owned the stove since new. Now 17 years old. I believe the baffle is sound, I can't see any dererioration. I don't have a stt thermometer but I do have an infrared thermometer that I could use. I usually run the air control wide open until I get to the safe burning zone then cut it back to 50-75 % closed . Sometimes the flue temp drops so I have to open it up again.
What things should I check when I go back to the stove site?

There are a few things to look at besides double-checking the firewood's internal moisture by resplitting it and testing on the freshly exposed face of the wood. Sometimes wood that is greyed and looks dry on the outside is still holding moisture inside.

During the last flue cleaning did someone forget to block the secondary tube? If the tube was not blocked, it may be full of soot and sote if this wasn't done. Also, have the insulation seals that go alongside of the baffle ever been replaced? If they are getting raggedy, it's time to replace them. Lastly, is there a screen on the chimney cap? If so, it may be time to remove it and scrape it clean.

Another thought, there is a stainless flame diverter on top of the baffle that is attached to the underside of the stovetop. I have seen the fasteners rust and rot. Pull the baffle to make sure it's still intact and in place and that a soot dam has not formed in front of the flue outlet. Replace the secondary tube gasket before putting the baffle back in.

 

[rut]

There are a few things to look at besides double-checking the firewood's internal moisture by resplitting it and testing on the freshly exposed face of the wood. Sometimes wood that is greyed and looks dry on the outside is still holding moisture inside.

During the last flue cleaning did someone forget to block the secondary tube? If the tube was not blocked, it may be full of soot and sote if this wasn't done. Also, have the insulation seals that go alongside of the baffle ever been replaced? If they are getting raggedy, it's time to replace them. Lastly, is there a screen on the chimney cap? If so, it may be time to remove it and scrape it clean.

Another thought, there is a stainless flame diverter on top of the baffle that is attached to the underside of the stovetop. I have seen the fasteners rust and rot. Pull the baffle to make sure it's still intact and in place and that a soot dam has not formed in front of the flue outlet. Replace the secondary tube gasket before putting the baffle back in.

I cleaned it from the stove top up. Where is this secondary tube ? Do you mean the tube coming from the baffle? Did not remove the baffle so did not replace the gasket. I did clean the soot from the outlet of the baffle. Did not replace the insulation seals.

 

[begreen]

The secondary tube enters the bottom rear of the baffle. When was the flue last cleaned?

Next time you fire up the stove, mix in some known dry wood like 2x4 construction cutoffs.