PDVC have a pressure sensor

[Dhosh]

The manual I downloaded for my PDVC shows a pressure sensor, but also states it's a generic drawing. My controller board has connectors for one ... but it's been replied with a newer board (also has an unused ignitor connector). I don't see one ... nor where one would mount. Do I just disregard it when troubleshooting, then?

I DO have a temp sensor. Any way to trouble shoot it? Can it's connector be shorted out, to bypass, for testing?

The thermostat connector has such a jumper on it, as we don't have a thermostat, either.

Dennis

 

[Lake Girl]

Might be best to PM Mike Holton stoveguy2esw to see what he may have for a manual for that age stove. The pre-2004 manual: (broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/assets/images/general/pre-04.25-PDV.pdf)

You would have to follow the electrical lines back from the vac switch to the board to see how it is hooked up there. Make sure you unplug when working on it! Vac switch connected to upper auger would stop the auger if there are vac problems. Have you taken off sides so you can watch upper auger to see if it is turning?

Just saw the posting from Sidecar, he gives you a good starting point with the hopper gasket. Check latches to make sure they are working properly...

Keep us posted!

 

[Dhosh]

Might be best to PM Mike Holton stoveguy2esw to see what he may have for a manual for that age stove. The pre-2004 manual: (broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/assets/images/general/pre-04.25-PDV.pdf)

You would have to follow the electrical lines back from the vac switch to the board to see how it is hooked up there. Make sure you unplug when working on it! Vac switch connected to upper auger would stop the auger if there are vac problems. Have you taken off sides so you can watch upper auger to see if it is turning?

Just saw the posting from Sidecar, he gives you a good starting point with the hopper gasket. Check latches to make sure they are working properly...

Keep us posted!

Yes, Lake Girl ...that's the manual I'm referring to. Page 17 shows a Vacume Shut Down Switch (part 24) ... but my stove doesn't appear to have one .. no hose(s), and don't see the switch. The replaced controller board has spade terminals for the connection, but nothing on it. Maybe the pressure switch came on slightly later model? Maybe if I take the entire exhaust assembly off (rather than just the fan/motor) ... I can see where one might mount.

Slight update .... it was still running this morning, but at a lower-then-usual temp ... around 200 degrees. It usually runs around 325 or so. (Hey .,.. I could bake a pie in there!) ... Hardly any pellets in the pot. I put a few pellets in, locked up the lid, and checked the fire again .. appeared no more pellets were getting to the lower auger ... and the control panel had 5 d on it ... (probably S U for 'Shut Down'? So, I pressed the 'off' button, and officially asked it to Shut Down.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I had one years ago but I cannot remember if it did or didn't so I'm not venturing a guess. They are positive pressure so burnback is an issue if the hopper gasket leaks and they have a temperature sensor on the backside of the firebox but even though I still have the owners manual copy, the instructions are a bit cryptic. You can alter the various functions using a 'diddle stick' (plastic flat blade screwdriver for potentiometers) and adjusting the pots on the board but that was a long time ago so I can't remember how much impact adjusting has.

The one thing I never liked about the England stoves of that design is the pusher system of expelling ashes with no ash pan or lower box to contain ashes. I gets to be a pita. I remember not so fondly cleaning it.

 

[Dhosh]

Yes ... cleaning is a real 'joy' .. but found, I can usually go about 4-5 days with just scooping the light ash cakes off to the side ... as a holding bin... then I let it run out of pellets and 'go cold', to do a full cleaning. My controller board has been replaced with a newer type .. I don't think this one has adjustable pots on the back. The hopper gasket is a bit worn, so guess it's time to do the job!
Thanks!

 

[Lake Girl]

Did you buy this stove new or used? Is there a hose barb on the exhaust housing? Or a barb on the backside of the firebox?

While I realize this is for post 2004 models, it may give you an idea of where to look for the vac switch.

(broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/faq/troubleshooting-guide/pellet-stove/troubleshooting-for-pellet-stoves-manufactured-2004-to-present/troubleshooting-help/fe)
Note: The model shown in the picture is the model 25-pdvc/55shp10/55trp10. In models 25-pdv/55-shp22 /55-trp22, and models 25-pi/ 55-shp20/ 55-trp20 the vacuum switch wired through the top auger circuit is located forward in the back of the stove beneath the room air blower. - See more at: (broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/faq/troubleshooting-guide/pellet-stove/troubleshooting-for-pellet-stoves-manufactured-2004-to-present/troubleshooting-help/fe#sthash.1qfvUS3W.dpuf)

Best to contact Englander...

 

[Harvey Schneider]

I had one years ago but I cannot remember if it did or didn't so I'm not venturing a guess. They are positive pressure so burnback is an issue if the hopper gasket leaks and they have a temperature sensor on the backside of the firebox but even though I still have the owners manual copy, the instructions are a bit cryptic. You can alter the various functions using a 'diddle stick' (plastic flat blade screwdriver for potentiometers) and adjusting the pots on the board but that was a long time ago so I can't remember how much impact adjusting has.

The one thing I never liked about the England stoves of that design is the pusher system of expelling ashes with no ash pan or lower box to contain ashes. I gets to be a pita. I remember not so fondly cleaning it.

Are we talking about the 25PDVC? Mine is a negative pressure firebox with two vacuum switches.

 

[Dhosh]

Did you buy this stove new or used? Is there a hose barb on the exhaust housing? Or a barb on the backside of the firebox?

While I realize this is for post 2004 models, it may give you an idea of where to look for the vac switch.

(broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/faq/troubleshooting-guide/pellet-stove/troubleshooting-for-pellet-stoves-manufactured-2004-to-present/troubleshooting-help/fe)
Note: The model shown in the picture is the model 25-pdvc/55shp10/55trp10. In models 25-pdv/55-shp22 /55-trp22, and models 25-pi/ 55-shp20/ 55-trp20 the vacuum switch wired through the top auger circuit is located forward in the back of the stove beneath the room air blower. - See more at: (broken link removed to http://www.heatredefined.com/faq/troubleshooting-guide/pellet-stove/troubleshooting-for-pellet-stoves-manufactured-2004-to-present/troubleshooting-help/fe#sthash.1qfvUS3W.dpuf)

Best to contact Englander...

========================

I bought it well used. ;-) I got it this last fall, and I think the label said it was a '96. An oldie.
No vacuum switches, hoses, or barbed connectors anywhere. I haven't dug deep around the exhaust blower, however ... there could be a barbed connector there. The rest of it is pretty open and visible, and I would think the vac switches (especially if as large as what is pictured in the above) would be pretty obvious.

 

[Dhosh]

Are we talking about the 25PDVC? Mine is a negative pressure firebox with two vacuum switches.
View attachment 153096

Someone mentioned mine was a positive pressure feedbox .. but I can't see how that can happen, when the fan is on the exhaust side. The hopper door gasket can still be the culprit, however! I'll be scraping the old one off tonight, and replacing anew. I checked the exhaust flue multiple times ... but hmm .. I should really check the OAK pipe to, just to see if the end is iced up, etc. Can't see how, where it is, but ya never know ...

 

[Harvey Schneider]

========================

I bought it well used. ;-) I got it this last fall, and I think the label said it was a '96. An oldie.
No vacuum switches, hoses, or barbed connectors anywhere. I haven't dug deep around the exhaust blower, however ... there could be a barbed connector there. The rest of it is pretty open and visible, and I would think the vac switches (especially if as large as what is pictured in the above) would be pretty obvious.

The vac switches on mine are mounted on the cabinet floor, at the back edge, below the control board. They are about 2.5" in diameter, have two hose nipples and three spade connectors each.
edit

 

[BrotherBart]

They are negative pressure for sure. Otherwise no air would ever be pulled through the pellets in the firepot. And the switches are vacuum, not pressure.

 

[Lake Girl]

Upgrade the gaskets ... then think about saving the money for a newer stove so you and the family will have better safety back-ups.

Sidecarflip mentioned a positive pressure problem ... due to leaking gasket ... so exhaust does not clear the smoke from the firebox well.

 

[Lake Girl]

The vac switches on mine are mounted on the cabinet floor, at the back edge, below the control board. They are about 2.5" in diameter, have two hose nipples and three spade connectors each.

Harvey, what year of manufacture is your stove? Dhosh's stove is vintage 1996... may be pre vacuum switches or someone modified the stove?

 

[Harvey Schneider]

Harvey, what year of manufacture is your stove? Dhosh's stove is vintage 1996... may be pre vacuum switches or someone modified the stove?

I don't remember the exact year, but mine is the newer design. I believe the most recent change happened in 2004. The thing I remember about the change is the addition of an igniter. I though they always had vac switches. Just an assumption on my part.

 

[Dhosh]

Looks like it never had vacuum switches. I can't even find mounting studs or holes that aren't being used. Yes ... Lake Girl ... this box was a trial run .. to see if it was worth while. Honestly, for my situation .. stove in the basement, etc. It's marginal. $50+/week for pellets. That's a long way towards just sticking with the propane. Of course, when it goes up another buck or two / gallon ... that will be another matter. At least (when running) it makes the basement quite comfortable (rather than the 55 or so it might usually be... and it keeps the propane at bay, upstairs.

Alas, though ... new gasket on the door and pellet hopper, another complete clean and air hose blow-out of the pot and exhaust paths (the best I could, without the ol' leaf blower trick) including pulling the exhaust fan, cleaning it, and the housing. I'd ALmost be tempted to try the leaf blower ... but mine is gas powered, and only blows, so I would need to do it from the inside. I'm pretty sure the exhaust fan is running continuously ... but I'm not so sure about the upper auger. I got a load started .. good burn pot fire, and after 20 minutes I went back down, and fire was about out again, with E 2 on the control panel. Argghhh ...

 

[Dhosh]

It's been running for 2 hours now, in S U mode. It completely went dark - and quiet .. just all of a sudden, with no error code. I turned it back on (flame was still going, but limping) ... and it went to E 2 , then E 0. I turned it off ... waited about 10 seconds, and turned it back on. It's been running since then for at least 1 1/2 hrs. I pulled the temp sensor, and it error'd out. I plugged it back in , turned the controller off, then on again, and after a breif period of 9-9 ... it revered back to S U mode.
FYI .. Per MIke @ BSSW back in November, after I gave him the stove and board model ... I did a board re-set, then set to b mode ... 6-1-1. Before the problems I was running b mode and 6-4-1. I'll probably just set to 'off', and let it do a (hopefully), normal shutdown, till I can get a hold of BSSW again, I guess.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

the stove in the OP's avatar is a 25-PDVP , not a 25-PDVC , two different stoves alltogether. the 96 PDVP does not have a pressure switch and the connection on the new board should have a bypass chip installed so it does not look for the non existant switch.

the PDVC's all have pressure switches but were not in production until mid 1998