PE Summit gets too hot?

[pinewinds]

Hey,

I had this stove installed for last winter and had the same problem. When the temps get down to -10 or more it doesn't seem to matter how careful I am I can't control the fire. Maybe the thermometer is broken.

Here is a video of the stove an hour after a cold start. I closed the damper all the way after about 5 minutes with six splits in it. I have a 35' chimney. Nothing is glowing. I don't know if this is normal or not:



Any help would be appreciated.

 

[mcdougy]

Hey,

I had this stove installed for last winter and had the same problem. When the temps get down to -10 or more it doesn't seem to matter how careful I am I can't control the fire. Maybe the thermometer is broken.

Here is a video of the stove an hour after a cold start. I closed the damper all the way after about 5 minutes with six splits in it. I have a 35' chimney. Nothing is glowing. I don't know if this is normal or not:



Any help would be appreciated.

Any chance you have a outside air intake pipe hooked up to that summit?

 

[pinewinds]

Any chance you have a outside air intake pipe hooked up to that summit?

No I don't. I thought about it but didn't know if I should. Now that the tile and siding is on its hard to add.

 

[mcdougy]

I'm sure some of the more professional folks may have a more accurate answer .....I asked about if you had a OAK because many people have mentioned that their PE stoves need the Outside Air Kit blocked off to some degree because these stoves draft very easy.
That being said, I assume that due to you have 35' of pipe you are drafting too strong when the temps drop. In the old days some folks had the inline dampers on their black pipe.....I'm not sure if these are allowed anymore, but that's where the pros should help. Also showing your dealer that video may be worthy

 

[begreen]

Put a key damper in the stove pipe. The 35' of flue is sucking like hoover.

 

[Prof]

I have a summit with a similar set up to yours. What I can say is that it does run hot. Stove top is often above 750F (the limit of my IR gun) if I load it full of hardwood. I can keep my stack temps below 1000F if I damper down early enough. I haven't noticed any discoloration, warping, etc. that would indicate over-firing. It runs hot and keeps me warm, that's what I know. I don't load it full all that often, but mostly because I don't use it as the primary source of heat.

 

[begreen]

It is capable of sustained high temp running but that will wear out parts faster. In particular the baffle/secondary box will start warping and eventually cracking.

 

[Tar12]

Put a key damper in the stove pipe. The 35' of flue is sucking like hoover.

Here is your answer and a cheap one at that!

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Have you done the dollar bill test on door gasket?

 

[pinewinds]

Thanks for the replies.

I haven't tested the door in a while now so maybe I'll do that before I put a damper in the pipe.

I know the stove can run hot but at this point it seems to be sucking too much air out of the house. It heats my whole house when it runs closer to 500-650f when the outside temps are closer to 0. Right now when the stove gets 900+ like in the video it barley warms up the basement and just eats my wood. It really runs great when it isn't so cold out. It also seems like the baffle is already warping after just these two winters use. I also hope it hasn't been wrecking the ICC pipe because it could be getting it too hot. It's all double wall so I can't tell.

The PE manual says you can put a damper on the pipe if need be so I may do that. The chimney is 35' outside, not counting the 6'ish in the house. I guess being in Canada I'm not allowed to even change anything on my chimney myself so I'm going to have to have someone come do it for me.

I hope that if I add this damper it makes using this stove less like a science project than it has been. I'd like to just use it and not worry about ruining my expensive chimney or burning my house down.

 

[vwmike]

Looks pretty common for a summit on a tall chimney. They'll take it ok, but it is very inefficient when you don't need that much heat! I would add a damper to the pipe and modify your air control so it will close more, but not so much it blocks all the air, try an 1/8" at a time, it makes a big difference. I find it so strange stoves are sold as a one size fits all when there is so many variables with every install. PE's love to run hot and blaze kings seem to smell like smoke if the chimneys aren't ideal.

 

[Woody Stover]

If one damper doesn't slow it enough, you can install a second one. My SIL has 21', and one damper doesn't slow it all that much.

 

[begreen]

Yes, 2 key dampers may be needed. There is 41' of vertical rise in that flue. This installation would be an issue for any stove. If the door gasket needs replacing use the OEM factory gasket.