PE T5 Baffle Supply Tube Gasket

[dispatcher101]

Just pulled my T5 apart for it's first cleaning after 1 1/2 months of non-stop burning. I was very pleased. Virtually no creosote buildup with the exception of the last 6 inches of the pipe, and that is burning exclusively lodgepole pine. Everthing went great, but the air supply gasket was in bad shape, we managed to save about half of it. Has anyone had experience with this problem. How much will it affect the running of the stove??? It is cold here, I had to turn the heater on for the first time in a month, and I want to fire the stove off again. Regardless I am going to order the part, just hoped someone could weigh in on the problem.

Thanks

 

[snowtime]

First your stove will work fine without it. The secondary air will probab ly be concentrated in the back instead of front.
There have been lots of conversations about this gasket. Some just put a new one on at every cleaning. Some say and I am one of them that you get a better secondary with 2 gaskets. It is a pain that they always come apart one of our members made agasket out of regular rope gasket and reported that it was doing well and it was still ok to reuse after cleaning. I think he is experimenting with glass gasket material now. When I clean in spring I will be substituting a glass gasket cut to size.

Short answer is its ok to put it back on without gasket.

 

[dispatcher101]

That was what we thought. It appears to fit pretty tightly even without the gasket. And with the low pressures involved it more than likely has minimal effect. I appreciate the quick response. Thanks I may try the window rope gasket on my removal. I do have a telescoping section of pipe just above the stove. I could get away with not taking the baffle out. However There was a moderate amount buildup on some areas of the top of the baffle. Any thoughts on not removing the baffle on every cleaning???

 

[madison]

It is not too hard to make your own, I copied Hog's v1.0 using 3/8" rope gasket, and it is bulletproof, v2.0 uses the flat window gasket material.

I can't locate his great instructions with pictures, hopefully he'll chime in.

 

[snowtime]

Its recommended to remove the baffle when you clean as you need to see what if anything has fallen down and resting on it.

The more important thing is to be sure the pin that holds the baffle in place is installed. Sometimes it is easy to bump the baffle with a split when you are loading up for an all night burn.

 

[begreen]

May be my stove and Hogwildz's, but I wouldn't recommend running without the gasket. The stove seems to burn hotter and burns a lot more evenly with good secondary air distribution through the baffle.

Here's a link to the instructions from the gasketmeister:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/26827/#281372

 

[Hogwildz]

I also agree with having the gasket and maybe even 2 doubled up back there.
Here is another thread with a photo of the home made gasket after a season burning. Holding up very well.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/40803/
As soon as I get caught up with my work, which is now swamping me due to the weather, I will start making them.

 

[dispatcher101]

thanks for the advice. I plan on attempting the homemade with glass rope seal. The stove has been rolling for quite a few hours. I haven't noticed much of a change. Temps are consistent with before gasket failure - 600-625 at it's max. I have tried to monitor the pin when reloading, hasn't been an issue yet. The stove runs great, absolutely no complaints here!