PE T6 vs summit vs. Woodstock PH

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I would ask Woodstock about how you should clean with a top vent. Personally, I think it would be impossible to clean from inside the stove, but I have never tried it.

I had no choice but to use the rear-vent because I am going into the fireplace. I have no issues burning using the rear-vent.
 
IF you get a Progress, buy a spare cat now. The size is exclusive to the Woodstock and they have been known to be out of stock for an extended period.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the spare cat. A good idea!

I talked to Mike at Woodstock again and he said the only way to clean it is to disconnect the stovepipe. Kind of a bummer, but hopefully its just a matter of removing a couple set screws for a quick sweep. I don't want to install a T and use the rear vent because I don't want to add 8" to the rear clearance. The other bummer is that there's no discount on shipping on the Progress... just the other models. Too bad I don't have time to wait for the spring sale. We need a fire ASAP. I'm getting the upper portion of the chimney installed next week and a 1/2 cord of oak to tide me over until I can build my woodshed this summer. Can't wait until the stove gets here in 3-4 weeks. The good news is that it will be "winter" until June with plenty of chances to burn.

- Adam
 
Thanks for the heads up on the spare cat. A good idea!

I talked to Mike at Woodstock again and he said the only way to clean it is to disconnect the stovepipe. Kind of a bummer, but hopefully its just a matter of removing a couple set screws for a quick sweep. I don't want to install a T and use the rear vent because I don't want to add 8" to the rear clearance. The other bummer is that there's no discount on shipping on the Progress... just the other models. Too bad I don't have time to wait for the spring sale. We need a fire ASAP. I'm getting the upper portion of the chimney installed next week and a 1/2 cord of oak to tide me over until I can build my woodshed this summer. Can't wait until the stove gets here in 3-4 weeks. The good news is that it will be "winter" until June with plenty of chances to burn.

- Adam

That extra rear clearance for the tee is why I don't have a fireview right now.

I worry about this 1/2 cord of oak you're going to buy right now to burn this season. Be very careful that the fuel is actually dry. Another option is manufactured wood logs from a company like NIEL. They cost more than most firewood but they are ready to burn.

If I were you I would wait until the spring sale and take my time on the install over the summer. I mowed the lawn on Sunday. We're approaching spring fast!
 
Thanks for the heads up on the spare cat. A good idea!

I talked to Mike at Woodstock again and he said the only way to clean it is to disconnect the stovepipe. Kind of a bummer, but hopefully its just a matter of removing a couple set screws for a quick sweep. I don't want to install a T and use the rear vent because I don't want to add 8" to the rear clearance. The other bummer is that there's no discount on shipping on the Progress... just the other models. Too bad I don't have time to wait for the spring sale. We need a fire ASAP. I'm getting the upper portion of the chimney installed next week and a 1/2 cord of oak to tide me over until I can build my woodshed this summer. Can't wait until the stove gets here in 3-4 weeks. The good news is that it will be "winter" until June with plenty of chances to burn.

- Adam
Getting dry oak will be next to impossible. I do have a source for dry almond, which I prefer over oak, but you would need to pick it up yourself in the Chico area.
 
Congrats on going with the Woodstock stove!! You will love it!! Mike's a great guy to deal with.

And in regards to cleaning with a soot-eater on these stoves, yeah you have to take off the pipe. Tried really hard one time to shove the rods past where the catalyst sits and up into the pipe. I could tell that if you kept going you'd probably snap the rods, too much tension. But removing the section of pipe connected right to the stove gave me a straight shot to the top and it allowed me to clean the removed piece of pipe as well as clean out the back area of the stove.
 
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Getting dry oak will be next to impossible. I do have a source for dry almond, which I prefer over oak, but you would need to pick it up yourself in the Chico area.


Thanks Mech. I've been buying wood from one of my friends/coworkers for years. Its always been fantastic and has been seasoned for quite a while, though not sure how many years.

I've burned almond a few years and its very nice as well. Smells good. Will certainly be in touch if needed.

Highbeam: don't fall for it man. I lived in Tacoma for 4 years and I always thought summer was right around the corner... until it was October and winter again. ;-)
 
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I have both a PH and a T6 and love them both. I have used the T6 for about 8 years and the PH for about 5 years -- so lots of experience with both. The T6 "breaths" easier, really kicks the heat out and it does burn more wood than the PH (pure heat output is greater with the T6 but the PH gets it done too). With all of that said, the T6 is awesome and will get the job done. My only dislike of the T6 is the ash dump system. It is worthless and I just use a shovel.

The PH is in a different class. It will also really kick the heat out, less wood, longer burn times, much better ash dump system (love the grate system). If I had to pick one over the other, I would buy the PH. My PH is rear vented, it has become my primary heater, and I seldom need to fire-up the T6 anymore. If you go with a PH, do not cut corners on the install. I have about 15', double wall rigid liner that is insulated between the inside and outside pipe (lined existing clay chimney). Works great! The only draw back I would give the PH is the CAT replacement cost -- seems like it will be about every 4 years. The CAT is very easy to clean. Love the stove.

Hopes this helps.
 
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I have both a PH and a T6 and love them both. I have used the T6 for about 8 years and the PH for about 5 years -- so lots of experience with both. The T6 "breaths" easier, really kicks the heat out and it does burn more wood than the PH (pure heat output is greater with the T6 but the PH gets it done too). With all of that said, the T6 is awesome and will get the job done. My only dislike of the T6 is the ash dump system. It is worthless and I just use a shovel.

The PH is in a different class. It will also really kick the heat out, less wood, longer burn times, much better ash dump system (love the grate system). If I had to pick one over the other, I would buy the PH. My PH is rear vented, it has become my primary heater, and I seldom need to fire-up the T6 anymore. If you go with a PH, do not cut corners on the install. I have about 15', double wall rigid liner that is insulated between the inside and outside pipe (lined existing clay chimney). Works great! The only draw back I would give the PH is the CAT replacement cost -- seems like it will be about every 4 years. The CAT is very easy to clean. Love the stove.

Hopes this helps.

Thanks! I ordered the PH yesterday and am now awaiting delivery. Well, sort of delivery... delivery to a shipping terminal 1.5 hours away. I'm having a hard time waiting.
 
Highbeam: don't fall for it man. I lived in Tacoma for 4 years and I always thought summer was right around the corner... until it was October and winter again. ;-)
Our lawn needs mowing too, but I was out of town. I will mow the next dry spell we get. Daffodils and crocuses are opening up, camelias starting to bloom too.
 
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Seen locally today. It's happening.
 
I had no choice but to use the rear-vent because I am going into the fireplace. I have no issues burning using the rear-vent.
I've read that they disregard the first 90 with a rear-vent setup, so maybe it's not really a factor. 6800+ elevations is a factor for sure. I'd ask Woodstock how well the PH breathes. The Ws straight cats breathe easy...my BIL only has 13.5' on his rear-vent Fireview..
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That's just not cool man. I still have 2' of snow in my yard.
Yeah, but you have the spectacular mountain vistas, being way up there.. ==c
 
We've got some of them too. This was looking up the Skagit River at Eldorado last weekend.
eldorado-on-skagit.jpg
 
I've read that they disregard the first 90 with a rear-vent setup, so maybe it's not really a factor. 6800+ elevations is a factor for sure. I'd ask Woodstock how well the PH breathes. The Ws straight cats breathe easy...my BIL only has 13.5' on his rear-vent Fireview..
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I asked yesterday. They didn't seem to think it'd make a difference. Still, I'm prone to worst-case-scenario thinking, and will be going straight up and out.
 
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Seen locally today. It's happening.

Did I ever tell you how much I hate you right about this time of year? ;) :)

Oh who am I kidding . . . I still want to snowmobile. But it is nice (and very strange) to see flowers in bloom this time of year when you start posting these pics.
 
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Taken yesterday, just for you Jake. Snow is still coming down heavily in the mountains, but it's spring down here.
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Taken yesterday, just for you Jake. Snow is still coming down heavily in the mountains, but it's spring down here.
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Im in North West Arkansas I was talking this morning how my cold season grass needs mowed (all summer grass is still brown). This has been a warm wet winter for us. We had plants budding the other week but we got down in the 20’s last night with high of 40 today so it might stop some of it.
 
We did have a heavy frost this morning in the hills above begreen but the silly frogs were croaking away in the pastures last night.
 
We get huge winds here between the gaps of the cascade mountain range and I've never had wind blow down the chimney. The wind usually increases draft. A regular chimney cap should be fine.

Myself, I would always opt for the fully vertical chimney. With a tee on the back you need to pull the stove much farther out on the hearth.

Can anybody with a PH tell us whether they could shove the sooteater into the loading door and up through the bypass and into the top vent? I feel like it would be impossible but surely somebody has tried.
Not a chance. The path is too conveluted.Use a slip joint.
 
I should probably make a separate thread for this, but I've got a quick question about the hearth pad I'm starting on in the morning. I got all the supplies tonight, including the fancy Durock screws, at HD.

The plan is:
- Lay 3/4" plywood and screw it to the existing wood floor.
- Lay down 1/2" Durock (R value 0.39). Do I screw this to the plywood, mortar, or both? I'm thinking screw only.
- Lay down another layer of 1/2" Durock (avoiding overlapping seams), mortar only.
- Tile with slate

Does anyone know if I should mortar AND screw down the durock to the plywood? How about between layers of Durock?

My thought is that I'd screw the first layer of Durock to the plywood and mortar the second layer of durock to the first without screws so that I can get it precisely level.

Thanks,
Adam
 
R=.39 is for Durcok NexGen. Screw down the second layer too. The mortar between the Durock layers is not necessary.