Pellet insert, Educate me please :)

[iron stove]

Well, I have burned pellets for 10 years, and own a new P-43.

But my brother bought his first house, and has had Oil SHOCk this winter. He has a fireplace opening, with what the chimney sweep called a Heatilator ( metal lined with vents to side of chimney to try to increase efficency)
He is debating a pellet insert. He has a 31.5 W by 27 tall opening, 24 deep. He most likly CANNOT afford new. But looking for maybe a used p-35, OR suggestions on another brand that is reliable with most pellets, easy to service and parts availability, NEED SUGGESTIONS !!

Also, does CT code require a liner pipe in his chimney ( Type cost, its a cape, so 2 story chimney)

Adding a picture of the fireplace :

 

[DexterDay]

Liner is a must. As for the insert?

The Englnder 25-EPi from amfmenergy is pretty cheap? Factory refurb, with full factory warranty....? Looks like it will fit?

Just a thought? Or a used Santa Fe or Castile, can normally be had pretty cheap?

Link to amfmenergy

(broken link removed to http://www.amfmenergy.com/55trpepi--epa-certified-pellet-insert--2000552000.html)

 

[smoke show]

Remember you get what you pay for. That being said sometimes you hit a homerun on the used market.

my .02

 

[smwilliamson]

Just about any unit will fit in the opening but the damper on those heatilators is tough. I suspect a saws all will win the battle for him though.

 

[john193]

A liner is necessary. Single wall stainless steel will do just fine. I'm guessing your brother will need at least 25 feet, go with a 4 inch diameter pipe. Have you tried Craigslist for used stoves?

 

[relxn88]

Well, I have burned pellets for 10 years, and own a new P-43.

But my brother bought his first house, and has had Oil SHOCk this winter. He has a fireplace opening, with what the chimney sweep called a Heatilator ( metal lined with vents to side of chimney to try to increase efficency)
He is debating a pellet insert. He has a 31.5 W by 27 tall opening, 24 deep. He most likly CANNOT afford new. But looking for maybe a used p-35, OR suggestions on another brand that is reliable with most pellets, easy to service and parts availability, NEED SUGGESTIONS !!

Also, does CT code require a liner pipe in his chimney ( Type cost, its a cape, so 2 story chimney)

Adding a picture of the fireplace :

It would be cheaper to buy and install a used stand-alone stove. You could use the fireplace when the electricity goes off or whenever you just want use it. Heatilator fireplaces are 40% efficient as compared to regular fireplaces at 10% .
Just my 2cents.

 

[iron stove]

Just about any unit will fit in the opening but the damper on those heatilators is tough. I suspect a saws all will win the battle for him though.

Have a Sawzall, so yes I can chop it up ! Assume clean air would be through the flue also ???

 

[iron stove]

A liner is necessary. Single wall stainless steel will do just fine. I'm guessing your brother will need at least 25 feet, go with a 4 inch diameter pipe. Have you tried Craigslist for used stoves?

Any clue how much $$ for 4"x25' stainless pipe ???

Yes, see a bunch of used stoves on craigslist.

 

[Defiant]

Any clue how much $ for 4"x25' stainless pipe ???

$240 and up for good quality with cap/top plate and term

 

[smoke show]

$240 and up for good quality with cap/top plate and term

A useful post. I knew you had it in ya.

 

[stovelark]

Hey Iron stove can prob find a nice used insert (steel frames about 1200-2000, depending on mfr and features). You didn't mention heat requirements..?? But sounds like you want a 35-40Kbtu stove. Good choices Quad Castille, Harman Accentra,
Enviro Empress, Milan or EF3. Breckwell p23/24 good choices too. The 25 ft Liner kit- expect about 400-500 depending where/whom you buy it from. I'd suggest 4 inch definitely with 4 in cleanout tee on stove if possible. (some stoves won't accommodate one) Good hunting, careful on the roof and seal the top plate/cap good the first time.

 

[Evan_J]

You might get lucky dealing with the damper in your Heatilator. We've been told in the past by the guys that serviced our chimney (pre-Harman) that our fireplace was a Heatilator. In our case the damper was mounted on the top of the flue and was cable operated. Removal was quick and painless.

 

[Lousyweather]

dont forget, you'll likely need a ZC box if ya stick a harman in there

 

[smwilliamson]

dont forget, you'll likely need a ZC box if ya stick a harman in there

No you wont. The thing is all masonry and steel...or I maybe wrong cause I cannot see inside that thing

 

[iron stove]

dont forget, you'll likely need a ZC box if ya stick a harman in there

What is that ?

 

[DAKSY]

What is that ?

Zero Clearance enclosure. Harman makes a ZC enclosure for installing their inserts in a framed wall. You won't need one in your install.

 

[mik_kane]

A liner is necessary. Single wall stainless steel will do just fine. I'm guessing your brother will need at least 25 feet, go with a 4 inch diameter pipe.

If you are installing an insert into a masonry flue, do you have to run a flue liner to the top? I have seen diagrams were they just show a liner running into the flue.

 

[smwilliamson]

depends on your local building code

 

[john193]

As stated, that depends on your local code. In my area, you are required to go all the way to the top.

 

[smwilliamson]

Same here in MA

 

[Don2222]

I have seen installations with the short change liner into the flue. Sure they work fine until the chimney flue gets all plugged up with pellet ash. Then cleaning is not as simple as running a 4" diameter brush up a full liner to the top. You have quite a mess and that is if the old clay liner does not crack, but it will eventually!

Point of this story, a 4" diameter full length liner to the top is the best way to go!

Here is the standard Old Style Heaterlator design shown below:
The bottom vents pull in room air and the top vents return the heated air like the diagram shows.

Click pic to Enlarge

 

[Lousyweather]

No you wont. The thing is all masonry and steel...or I maybe wrong cause I cannot see inside that thing

someone above mentioned "using a sawzall" to cut the old enclosure out....if they do, you WILL need a ZC box

 

[smwilliamson]

someone above mentioned "using a sawzall" to cut the old enclosure out....if they do, you WILL need a ZC box

No I meant to cut the top of the damper. Depending how critical the bend in the liner will be passing through, in the past I have had to notch out the damper overhang to create better vertical rise. You don't want to zig zag up and over if it is a real tight squeeze. But yes, one may have to do a z box if you cut out the enclosure...that is a lot of work and a job I might pass on depending upon the thickness of the metal fab.

 

[smwilliamson]

I have seen installations with the short change liner into the flue. Sure they work fine until the chimney flue gets all plugged up with pellet ash. Then cleaning is not as simple as running a 4" diameter brush up a full liner to the top. You have quite a mess and that is if the old clay liner does not crack, but it will eventually!

Point of this story, a 4" diameter full length liner to the top is the best way to go!

Here is the standard Old Style Heaterlator design shown below:
The bottom vents pull in room air and the top vents return the heated air like the diagram shows.

Click pic to Enlarge

short change liner in a flue is called a damper install or damper termination install

 

[Don2222]

short change liner in a flue is called a damper install or damper termination install

The damper is already installed in the chimney, so how about "short liner install using a damper termination"