Pellet stove glass air wash

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Hatepropane

New Member
Nov 9, 2014
24
Scottville, MI
Hi. I have a United States stove company 5502m king pellet stove.. Attached are some pictures of my glass. I had mentioned in a previous post that my glass was getting dirty rather quickly. After some air fuel
Mixture adjustments and running the stove on a higher temp because of colder temps it doesn't seem to be as bad. Although I want to make sure there is a air wash in it. I'm guessing it's that small slit on the Piece of steel on the bottom? [Hearth.com] Pellet stove glass air wash[Hearth.com] Pellet stove glass air wash
 
I don't remember which thread it was, but yes, you're supposed to cut the window gasket at least the width of that slit.

I have read two conflicting things about the gasket.. one said to remove the plate and just cut out the exposed gasket. The other said to cut through the entire gasket.

I cut through the entire gasket, so there is a small 6" or so wide gap between the window and the door. Not only is my stove running better, but the window has stayed super clean the past day.. on HR-1.

And, to be fair, I did drill two more rows of holes in the burn pot as well. I can't believe what a difference these two small modifications made.
 
So did you remove the gasket cover where that slit is and cut it? Or did you just cut through that slit in the steel? Also the holes in your burn out are excellent idea! Could you show me where you out those holes?
 
I removed both steel plates and completely removed the glass. While the shorter half was scrubbing the soot and crap off the glass, I cut about 6" off the gasket (3" from each end), then replaced the gasket around the glass and replaced the glass.

** Please note: I don't know if I was supposed to cut all the way through the gasket or not, but that's what I had read in one thread, then after I had performed the surgery, I'd read in another thread to not cut all the way through, so I don't know which way is "right". **

As for the holes.. if you flip over your burn pot, you'll see that it looks like two more rows of holes would fit in the bottom.. seriously, it's wicked obvious.. however, that is super thick steel and will kill a drill bit in a heartbeat.. so cutting oil and maybe not use your best bits would be a good idea.
 
Sorry for the bad pictures..

The outside view.. and you can see there is no gasket in the middle... and the stove has been running on HR-1 for 36+ hours now (or longer, maybe?) and you can see the glass is still fairly clean.. no black gunk.. just browning gunk.
[Hearth.com] Pellet stove glass air wash

The inside view.. you can see there is no gasket behind the slit.
[Hearth.com] Pellet stove glass air wash
 
Thanks for the tips. Very helpful! Will do some surgery tonight! I've seen a lot of bad reviews on these stoves but I love mine. It's 28 degrees for the past few days and I have my thermostat set for 68 and it's kept it there. On hr2.. 2000sq old farm house. My furnace blower come one for 12 minutes and off for 12 minutes which circulates the air Nicely. Out of the box you definitely need to adjust setting though. Overall I'm happy with it. Can't beat the price.
 
Yeah.. we have no real complaints either.. I do wish the manual was a little more clear and concise (and informative).

You may want to double check with "owen"(?) regarding the gasket... whether it's supposed to be cut all the way through or just what's visible.

And, there is a ton less ash since I made the "modifications". I do think with a little tweaking that this could be a great little stove... especially for the price.
 
Hopefully someone will read this so I don't have too start a new thread. I bought a 5502m this weekend and got it installed. I ran it at hr3 and blower speed 3 like the manual says for the first 3 hours. I then turned the hr down to 1 and left blower at 3. My problem is that the stove never "shut off"!!! I actually think my put is welded in place now. Why did my stove not shut down once the room was hot?
 
The stove will not shut unless you turn it off. How ever, if you want it to go to a lower setting when the room gets up to temp, you'll have to install a thermostat
 
Ok. I thought most all pellet stoves would shut off.
Now I have another problem. I have my he set at 1 and my draft fan set at 3. Room fan set on auto. I can hear some fan want to kick on but it doesn't. Any idea what it might be? When this fan kicks on my flame grows and faded when it kicks off.
 
That draft fan. It mods up and down to be more efficient. Out of the box the stove is not dialed in very well.. You'll need to set your draft and heat range for your high and low setting. From the factory they don't burn very well. If you hit the aux and draft up that's your high end for draft setting, hit aux up and heat range up and that's the pellet feed rate. Do the same down and that's your lowest setting.
 
To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

This is how you adjust. The numbers you see is what works best for me with the fuel I'm
Burning. As you can see the flame is nice and yellow/orange no black smoke coming out chimney and flue temp is a lot cooler then what it was with factory settings a lot more heat goes inside instead of out the chimney
 
  • Like
Reactions: mainestratman
Status
Not open for further replies.