Should my furnace go on and off within the thermostat settings in automatic setting? I hoped it would go into a low burn rather than go off. I clean the burn pot constantly but occasionally it takes to long for the igniter to start a burn and pellet auger restarts then gets an error to clean burn pot. Seems the igniter isn't heating enough, tried a new igniter with same results. The furnace is completely clean. Any advice is appreciated.
PF100 pellet furnace question
- Thread starter Yukon Jack
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Yes it's cleaned and undamaged. I assembled and installed it myself in 2009. It has worked fine all these years. With the weather changes this year, warm then cold the furnace heats to the thermostat settings then shuts down. On and off like this causes the burn pot to fill with ash and fine eventually causing the igniter not to heat the new pellets enough to start. There is a manual way to keep it burning at a low burn but was wondering if anyone else is experiencing the same thing. I just have to clean the burn pot more often than I have in the past 10 years, Just looking for thoughts from other Harman PF 100 Pellet Pro Furnace owners. Thank you for your reply.
Daksy... Maybe the ESP is my problem although the furnace has been working normal. I'll wait for a warm day with the furnace off and pull it out of the back. There are no connectors visible on the outside only 2 white wires to the probe extending about 2 in. out of a metal BX cable which is buried in the interior of the furnace. Do they have a history of going bad or acting erratic? My stove is exactly 10 yrs old. I will let you know how I make out. Thanks again.
Dansky.. You were spot on with the ESP, It was damaged so I replace it. Thank you. I have another erratic problem with the igniter not always heating enough even with a just cleaned burn pot to start a flame. Seeing the furnace is 10 years old I'm suspecting the igniter is the culprit. I purchased a new one about 5 years ago for a spare but before I change it, Can you think of anything else? At the end of the season last year I replaced the door gasket and a clogged pressure switch. I really heek it clean inside and out including the chimney. I also vacuum all the fine out of the bottom of the burn pot auger slide area often. Any suggesting for this old man. I see we are both NY State neighbors... any suggestion on the igniter erratic problem would be appreciated.
Have you "punched" out all the holes in the burn pot?
I use a piece of 12 gauge wire bent into an "L"...
Just don't damage the igniter where the holes are close to it.
If you want, you can loosen the screws & pull it out of the way...
Might as well practice removal...
I use a piece of 12 gauge wire bent into an "L"...
Just don't damage the igniter where the holes are close to it.
If you want, you can loosen the screws & pull it out of the way...
Might as well practice removal...
Excellent... I have cleaned them in the past but with a smaller ID wire, I have all the other gauges on hand and will use the 12 gauge. Furnace has be running constantly because of the single/teen night numbers. Temp is going up into low 30's tomorrow and I'll shut it down and do as you said and keep you informed. Thanks again my friend.
You're 2 for 2.... The burn pot was clean and seeing I had bought a spare igniter years ago I replaced it. While jammed in the burn box I was able to get a good view in the burn pot and I noticed a slight crack in the pot in the area above where the igniter is located. I would imagine with 10 years of good use that's expected. With the new ignited installed, gave it power and it ignited pellets within 5 minutes. I would think the burn pot with the very slight crack will outlast me being I'm 80 yrs old. Thank you my friend and I know who to call when I get in another jam.
Is the burn pot humped up at all where it is cracked? If so it can make the igniter be to far away from the pot floor and cause delayed ignition. If pot floor is cracked I would replace it. Not a hard job, 4 nuts and a new gasket and burn pot weldment. A 1/4” drive 1/2” swivel socket and long extension to get nuts off is needed. If it is not humped up now it probably will before to long.
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The crack is minor and I would have never seen it if I wasn't changing the igniter. The pot is not distorted in the least but I will order a new pot and gasket for when I do need it. It could outlast me but better to be safe than sorry. I will keep an eye on it and I would imagine the pot gets red hot when the furnace is cooking on some of the below zero nights up my way. Thanks for the heads up.
I just looked online through all the parts sites and can't find the exact replacement for my furnace. Harman stopped producing my model in 2014 and the only thing close is a stainless steel replacement, which the original should be anyway. It's an aftermarket for about $500 but it looks like it has no holes to attach the igniter. That's not a real problem but have a notion it's not for my furnace and for over $500 I'm not going to take a chance. My original isn't warped and the crack is very small and if it fails I'll pull it off and wire weld that small area from the inside and just get a new gasket.
Good call Yukon. Harman burn pots are not stainless. Im not sure if stainlesss is holds up better to heat or not. I just found the pot I think you are referring to for $529.00 It says redesigned and comes with new igniter bracket. I guess there is at least a option when it gets to the point that you need a replacement
Yep... you found it. I saw it on a couple of different sites. All sites don't show a good view of the side with the clean out hole for the igniter but I found one site which shows it clear and the (2) through hole for the igniter bracket are not there and that make me suspicious. I wouldn't have any problem drilling the holes but.... somewhere in the forum I saw where someone said "holes didn't line up". He wasn't specific on what holes were his problem. Right now the furnace is working well and keeping an very even temp so I think I'll go with that old expression... if it works, don't fix it.
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