Placement of Wood Stove

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Kansas Farmgirl

New Member
Jan 2, 2018
19
Kansas
Hello All! I have been reading the forums for a while now but am just now ready for my first of what will likely be many, many questions.

We will soon be building a new home on our farm in Kansas. We are a family of 5; husband, myself, five year old twins and a two year old. Our home will be a ranch style with an open floorplan...approximately 1600 square feet up plus same amount finished in the basement. I think we have decided on a Woodstock stove, specifically the Ideal Steel Hybrid. My question is regarding optimal placement.

We will have 3 bedrooms upstairs and 2 downstairs. We will spend much of our time downstairs, so my thought is we should put the stove downstairs and utilize the rising heat on the main floor as well. Is this a good plan? We will have a propane furnace as well, but the less propane we use, the happier our pocketbook will be. If we do place the stove in the basement, do we route the chimney up the interior of the main floor as well or elbow to the outside at some point?

This will be our first wood stove in a home we plan to live the rest of our lives in...the land has been in my family since 1877. I want to make sure we get this right. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
 
You planning on using Class A SS double wall pipe for your chimney? If so and it was me... I would keep it all inside since it is a cat stove. I would park that unit as close to dead center as I could and run that pipe straight up.
 
Yes, probably the single best thing you can do is to keep the chimney inside the home and not run it outside. If you have a floor plan post it. Other than that don't assume you'll be able to move heat from some far flung place in the house to where you want it that easily so the closer you can put it to where you think you'll spend the majority of your time the better.
 
You planning on using Class A SS double wall pipe for your chimney? If so and it was me... I would keep it all inside since it is a cat stove. I would park that unit as close to dead center as I could and run that pipe straight up.
Is it common then to leave the exposed pipe upstairs?
 
Yes, probably the single best thing you can do is to keep the chimney inside the home and not run it outside. If you have a floor plan post it. Other than that don't assume you'll be able to move heat from some far flung place in the house to where you want it that easily so the closer you can put it to where you think you'll spend the majority of your time the better.

Hopefully you can see the attached pdfs. We are still working on final plans, but these are pretty close. The basement will be a daylight basement as opposed to a walk out if that makes a difference in suggestions. Our five year old twins will occupy the two bedrooms in the basement and the rec room down there will get a lot of use daily by the whole family.
 

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So your thinking basement install? I think the chimney can be exposed if it's not accessible otherwise it usually would be enclosed.
 
Yes, probably the single best thing you can do is to keep the chimney inside the home and not run it outside. If you have a floor plan post it. Other than that don't assume you'll be able to move heat from some far flung place in the house to where you want it that easily so the closer you can put it to where you think you'll spend the majority of your time the better.

If it's in the basement make sure you insulate everything that can be heat sink (walls and floors), having a central open stairway to the basement with the stove nearby might be smart to encourage convection. Getting good convection patterns in a house can be difficult, but since your building you might be able to help it from the start with the right combination of openings to let the cold air down and hot air up strategically. If you're putting a propane furnace in too, make sure you get the ECM fan option so you can efficiently/quietly run the fan constantly, and make sure you have some high wall return air grills in the same room as the stove (there is a spec for how close a return can be to a stove though).

Another more drastic option might be to make sure you've arranged your main furnace ductwork so can manually separate the supply air floor between the areas of the house that receive stove heat and the areas that don't (I wish I could just heat my basement and bedrooms with my furnace). That way you can run the furnace to just heat the basement or upstairs with a couple strategically placed manual dampers and proper thermostat placement.

You may want to invest in a mini-split cold climate heat pump instead of a propane furnace. Especially if your planning on putting in AC. You can get ones with multiple heads.
 
So your thinking basement install? I think the chimney can be exposed if it's not accessible otherwise it usually would be enclosed.
The basement and main floor will see equal amounts of use. I think my only options are basement install or installing two smaller stoves, one for each floor. True?
 
If it's in the basement make sure you insulate everything that can be heat sink (walls and floors), having a central open stairway to the basement with the stove nearby might be smart to encourage convection. Getting good convection patterns in a house can be difficult, but since your building you might be able to help it from the start with the right combination of openings to let the cold air down and hot air up strategically. If you're putting a propane furnace in too, make sure you get the ECM fan option so you can efficiently/quietly run the fan constantly, and make sure you have some high wall return air grills in the same room as the stove (there is a spec for how close a return can be to a stove though).

Another more drastic option might be to make sure you've arranged your main furnace ductwork so can manually separate the supply air floor between the areas of the house that receive stove heat and the areas that don't (I wish I could just heat my basement and bedrooms with my furnace). That way you can run the furnace to just heat the basement or upstairs with a couple strategically placed manual dampers and proper thermostat placement.

You may want to invest in a mini-split cold climate heat pump instead of a propane furnace. Especially if your planning on putting in AC. You can get ones with multiple heads.
Good info SuperJ. The basement will be finished out the same as the upper floor with the exception of a small storage room. I have never lived with a heat pump...I'm not sure how that would work in this climate. I need to talk to our HVAC guy and see what he thinks. We started out wanting a stove for a little extra heat and a nice conversation piece, however I think once we have it, we will enjoy the savings and use it quite a lot to heat.
 
After seeing your floor plans it seems like the main floor great room is just begging for a stove. If it were me I would do a main floor install with the back of the stove against your open banister.
BUT... I would plan for another future stove in the basement since it will probably cold down there with just a main floor stove. In the meantime make sure you insulate the basement walls, under the slab, and put in good windows down there.

If you're sure that you don't want ever want two stoves, then I would consider making your mainfloor stair/banister opening twice as wide as the stairs so the stove could sit in the basement directly under the opening into the great room. The air should convect pretty good straight up. Also, look at getting a good ceiling fan in the great room with variable speed control, and maybe thermostatic control to bring the warm convected air back down to floor level on the main floor instead of piling up against the ceiling.
 
Mainfloor.PNG
The basement and main floor will see equal amounts of use. I think my only options are basement install or installing two smaller stoves, one for each floor. True?

You've got it. A single stove is going to be a compromise either way, but I think with careful planning the basement will be less of a compromise. Especially if you want to relax comfortably down there in the winter.
 
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I would put the stove where all your time will be spent. Normally it's the main floor. Here are a some issues I see with basement installs. A stove when running need regular attention. It's is a look at the fire, air adjustment, reloading. For me climbing up and down stairs will make it a job. Besides many basement stoves don't draft well and have issues getting the heat out of the basement.

Mine is the focal point in a great room. We are so glad we did the stove over a fireplace.
 
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I would put the stove where all your time will be spent. Normally it's the main floor. Here are a some issues I see with basement installs. A stove when running need regular attention. It's is a look at the fire, air adjustment, reloading. For me climbing up and down stairs will make it a job. Besides many basement stoves don't draft well and have issues getting the heat out of the basement.

Mine is the focal point in a great room. We are so glad we did the stove over a fireplace.

Yes stairs and firewood are not a great mixture. It's bad enough carrying my firewood up the 6 steps onto my deck to get in my back door. I'm jealous of the guys who can roll a big wagon full of wood right up to their stove.

If you're not in the same room as the stove you miss out on that beautiful radiant heat even if the temperature is fine.

I think in this case it's a walk out basement, so maybe the wood can come straight in the back if ends up down there?
 
After seeing your floor plans it seems like the main floor great room is just begging for a stove. If it were me I would do a main floor install with the back of the stove against your open banister.
BUT... I would plan for another future stove in the basement since it will probably cold down there with just a main floor stove. In the meantime make sure you insulate the basement walls, under the slab, and put in good windows down there.

If you're sure that you don't want ever want two stoves, then I would consider making your mainfloor stair/banister opening twice as wide as the stairs so the stove could sit in the basement directly under the opening into the great room. The air should convect pretty good straight up. Also, look at getting a good ceiling fan in the great room with variable speed control, and maybe thermostatic control to bring the warm convected air back down to floor level on the main floor instead of piling up against the ceiling.
I completely agree that a wood stove would be a statement piece on the main floor, but I'm just not sure how to make the heat work. I am fairly stuck on Woodstock products, but if we decided to go two stoves....Fireview in the main and IS downstairs? What would the recommendation be?
 
I would put the stove where all your time will be spent. Normally it's the main floor. Here are a some issues I see with basement installs. A stove when running need regular attention. It's is a look at the fire, air adjustment, reloading. For me climbing up and down stairs will make it a job. Besides many basement stoves don't draft well and have issues getting the heat out of the basement.

Mine is the focal point in a great room. We are so glad we did the stove over a fireplace.
Thanks for the reply. I'm sure you are correct...in our 30s the up/down won't be an issue but as we age I may kick myself. Why do basement stoves not draft well?
 
Basement stoves can sometimes suffer from something called the stack effect. Essentially the upper floors of the house lose heat, mainly from the attic and the air needs to be replaced. Often the path of least resistance is the basement chimney resulting in down drafting when cold and over all poor drafting. A well sealed house with a warm interior flue would be less prone to the problem but being in the basement the pressure differential still favors reverse draft on basement installs.

Many people have basement installs but its something to be aware of.
 
If you like the Fireview, I would take a closer look at the Progress Hybrid. It has a similar look, newer design, and offers better efficiency (but is a couple hundred more). Note Woodstock seems to have various deals happening throughout the year to watch for.

Downstairs the IS would be fine (and in the big world of stoves a top choice), but I would tend to look at a Blaze King if it's not going to be tended except for the evenings.
The Blaze King Sirocco 20/30 won't be too much more than the IS, but you could run it on 24hr reloads and not have to worry about adjustments and such during the day since the mechanical thermostat regulates the burn so well. I'm biased since I own an BK Ashford and have totally drunk the BK Koolaid.

Might want to look into an outdoor air kit (OAK) on both stoves. This will help to minimize draft/pressure problems with the stove. In a basement outdoor air kits can be challenging since the intake can't be above the stove (don't want the stove drafting out thru the intake!). But since you're building and have a walk out, you can probably figure something out.
 
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Basement stoves can sometimes suffer from something called the stack effect. Essentially the upper floors of the house lose heat, mainly from the attic and the air needs to be replaced. Often the path of least resistance is the basement chimney resulting in down drafting when cold and over all poor drafting. A well sealed house with a warm interior flue would be less prone to the problem but being in the basement the pressure differential still favors reverse draft on basement installs.

Many people have basement installs but its something to be aware of.
So, which is better, one stove in the basement servicing both floors or two stoves?
 
If you like the Fireview, I would take a closer look at the Progress Hybrid. It has a similar look, newer design, and offers better efficiency (but is a couple hundred more). Note Woodstock seems to have various deals happening throughout the year to watch for.

Downstairs the IS would be fine (and in the big world of stoves a top choice), but I would tend to look at a Blaze King if it's not going to be tended except for the evenings.
The Blaze King Sirocco 20/30 won't be too much more than the IS, but you could run it on 24hr reloads and not have to worry about adjustments and such during the day since the mechanical thermostat regulates the burn so well. I'm biased since I own an BK Ashford and have totally drunk the BK Koolaid.

Might want to look into an outdoor air kit (OAK) on both stoves. This will help to minimize draft/pressure problems with the stove. In a basement outdoor air kits can be challenging since the intake can't be above the stove (don't want the stove drafting out thru the intake!). But since you're building and have a walk out, you can probably figure something out.
Thanks SuperJ. You have given me a lot to think about. I still can't decide in my head if we should get one large stove or two. We may be asking well beyond the abilities of the IS to service both floors, although we have other heat. I'm headed to bed but I will be back with more questions soon. I will do some Blaze King researching...I had decided Woodstock was the way to go, but I love to research!
 
So, which is better, one stove in the basement servicing both floors or two stoves?
Its often said stoves are space heaters so having them where you need them is ideal. If you are sure wood heating is for you then 2 stoves would be assure you'll have heat where you need it and it looks like you have a good amount of space.

One the other hand you could start with your basement install and see how that works out but have a plan if you ever decide to add one on the main floor. With new construction one stove may do it.

Just in case you haven't read this, new wood stoves require wood that has been split then dried for about 2 yrs on avg. Many here have a three supply so you have to be up for that.
 
We will soon be building a new home on our farm in Kansas.

My maternal grandparents moved back to Dickinson Co. Kansas after WW the 2. One thing I haven't seen mentioned here is wind. No matter what, you probably ought to start out with whatever special wind deflecting chimney cap your local dealer suggests and be prepared to upgrade if it doesn't work well enough to suit you.

We are a family of 5; husband, myself, five year old twins and a two year old. Our home will be a ranch style with an open floorplan...approximately 1600 square feet up plus same amount finished in the basement. I think we have decided on a Woodstock stove, specifically the Ideal Steel Hybrid. My question is regarding optimal placement.

There are a LOT of really good stoves on the market right now. Who are the three wood stove dealers closest to you that you will be forced to rely on somehwat, and what brands do they carry. I would rather have a pretty good stove with excellent support...

We will have 3 bedrooms upstairs and 2 downstairs. We will spend much of our time downstairs,

Mmm, maybe kinda sorta. My youngest is 23, my oldest 32. Kids don't stray far from the television until they get their own wifi devices, but they don't get very far from the refrigerator either. I think there is going to be a fair bit of pressure on your floor plan for the great room to be the place where the family hangs out together.

so my thought is we should put the stove downstairs and utilize the rising heat on the main floor as well. Is this a good plan?

have you thought about an HRV system? Retrofitting an HRV is a pain in the neck, and they aren't cheap, but they can give you a lot of benefit over time.

We will have a propane furnace as well, but the less propane we use, the happier our pocketbook will be.
Nobody on this website is going to disagree.

If we do place the stove in the basement, do we route the chimney up the interior of the main floor as well or elbow to the outside at some point?

Interior. This has been about beat half to death above. Let me try to explain a different way. Historically wood stoves would put about 75% of the BTUs in the fuel load out into the house, and the other 25% would be 'wasted' up the chimney. Currently you won't have to look very hard to find stove efficiencies in the 88% range, a nice incremental change right? You have to burn less wood to keep your house the same temp. But your chimney is screaming, because half the energy it had available to pump smoke out of your house is gone.

For a modern stove, keep your chimney inside your insulation envelope as long as possible. Put your pierce through the roof as close to the peak as possible - so that the length of pipe out in the weather is as short as possible. And in Kansas, start with a wind cap.

This will be our first wood stove in a home we plan to live the rest of our lives in...the land has been in my family since 1877. I want to make sure we get this right. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Well you asked. I have been an RN for twenty years. I spent the last year, and 2018 coming up, in home health. I go to the houses of people who aren't sick enough to be hospital inpatients, and aren't well enough to go see their doctor. Stairs is huge.

To be independent at "home" as long as possible you really 'need' to get from your bed to the toilet, the refrigerator and a vehicle. On crutches, or in a wheelchair, or with a walker. Lose the 2-6 door to the master bedroom. I would suggest 3-6 doors throughout on the main level. 42". If you blow out your ACL tomorrow playing raquet ball and find yourself in a knee immobilizer on crutches for six weeks you won't need any further explanation.

Also, can you grade a driveway into the front lawn so 40 or 50 years from now you can hobble out the front door with your walker, no stairs, and climb into a minivan driven by one of your now 45 year old twins? I think having the garage downstairs is fine. When it is too much effort to walk up and down the stairs it might be time to stop driving.

Find a physical therapist and have them look at your master bath floor plan. Put your grab bars in now. Figure out how you can take a shower when walking out the front door is a taxing effort. Having a chair or other place to sit in front of the bathroom sink while you shave, put on makeup or brush your teeth is the difference between staying at home or moving to an ALF for a tragically high number of people. Mount your bathroom sink to the wall, with no vanity under it. That way later you will have 50 years experience taking care of business when you roll up to it in a wheelchair.

I would definitely put the stove on the upper level - no stairs - and position the annual wood pile outdoors somewhere with no stairs involved for that part either. My kids expect I am going to mount a bicycle basket on my (eventual) walker so I can load the basket with cord wood, hobble back indoors, and make a big enough pile to reload the stove before it is time to reload.

And put in an ENORMOUS hearth. Feet. The minimum US fire code is like 16 or 18 inches, its just ridiculously small. Make your hearth big enough that you can roll your wheelchair up on it with your toes maybe a foot from the door of the stove, while your whole body is basking in the heat coming up off your expanse of ceramic tile around the stove. Or cut slate, whatever.

When your kids finally move out you can pull the padding off your summertime chaise lounges, lay those side by side on your big hearth and spend quality time with your spouse side by side in the glow of the woodstove while you are laying on fire warmed rocks... just saying, my wife and I never actually do that. Nekkid, On days ending with a Y.

If you really love research, go to woodheat dot org and read all the articles in the "all about chimneys" section. I don't see prevailing winds labeled on your blue print, but I expect you have enough prevailing wind for it to matter. They have a pretty good explanation of stack effect there. I think if you understand stack effect you will do fine even with prevailing winds.

I got to add my g-g-g grandfather Bernt moved from Appleton, WI to Kansas when Henry Clay got the KS-NE act through the senate. He brought his 10 voting age sons with him to vote for KS to be admitted to the union as a free state. His one daughter, Emilia, was my g-g grandma. As much as I would like to say "Go Jayhawks" without coughing, I am an alum of UNC-CH and Roy WIlliams came home.

Best wishes and God bless.

I do think the idea of opening up the stairwell and putting the stove in the basement is brilliant. It is a coruscating concept and will give years and years of pleasure, until hobbling down the stairs to load the stove requires more strength than you have.
 
With basement installs, and multi-level houses, I suggest at least to look into a biomass heater with a buffer tank which moves hot water around the house to radiators to heat all the floors. These stoves are heated with chipped or pellet combustibles, including ag waste (such as corn cobs or anything similar -- so your farm ag waste may heat your home) which may be more plentiful in Kansas than wood logs. And are fed via a hopper. Depending on your setup it is possible to load the hopper outside. If using pellets, then a truck comes and loads up your hopper. Else, an external shoot can move chips into the hopper with something as small as a wheelbarrow or large as a tractor (which is easier to use when in your retirement years), and work automatically day and night so little need to visit the stove as long at the hopper is kept filled. They are not "pretty" stoves, but can be quite effective in the right circumstances.

You can even run the biomass heater in an out building if you use a buffer tank, as the hot water alone can be used for heating.
 
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I want nothing in my home thats going to require electricity to run! In the event of a power outage you are screwed! We had a ice event several years back that left our area with out power for 1.5 weeks...no worries in this home...others did not fare as well. Poindexter is correct in that the wind never stops there....I am sure you are aware of this...he is also correct in that you must plan for the aging process...if you plan on just burning wood while you are physically able make it as easy on yourself as possible....do you have ground level access to the basement for bringing firewood in? If not make that happen! In the dead of winter with the winds howling across that open country I am not sure a single stove will handle your heat demand so plan for a second stove install now so if you decide to add a stove upstairs in the future it will not be a problem to do so.
 
I want nothing in my home thats going to require electricity to run!

two days ago the power went out here, 785 users without power, was only off for 3-4 hours, but it was -17F when it was off, bet more than one person got the pucker effect when that happened.