Please critique my stove install plan. Want to make sure I'm not making a big mistake.

[frankinri]

I have gave it quite a bit of thought and decided I would install an Englander NC30 in my house. I’m going with this stove based on it feedback from users and its cost. I attached a “house floor plan” that shows where I was planning to install the stove. Based on this http://www.englanderstoves.com/manuals/30-NC.pdf
It looks like it would be ok to have this stove (with the back heat shield and larger blower) 8 inches from a drywall wall constructed wall without issues. Also the entire floor is grouted ceramic time and from what I understand this meets the requirement of being “non-combustible” and therefore ok to install the stove right on top of it. I was hoping to use the existing chimney without the expense of adding a liner. I still need to confirm the lining material. Looks like the above PFD says clay tile or other liner is fine so I’m hoping what I have is ok. My questions are;
1 Is it ok that the connection point of the chimney will have another floor under it (basement) this is around another 10-13 feet of chimney below the point that the stove pipe would enter the chimney. There is no other devices connected to this chimney and the cleanout is in the basement. The reason I ask is I’m not sure of the impact this will have on draft and the stoves overall functionality.
2 I don’t understand page 7 of this PDF that talks about the stoves connection point to the chimney. This is of high importance to me because the current location where the stove will go is covered with drywall. Under that drywall is most likely studs 16 on center. I will most likely be connecting in the center or one of these 15 inch gaps. I am hoping that utilizing the proper pipe (double walled??) or other device I could do this without needing any big changes in the area.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

 

[Ashful]

I'm not an expert in this area, so I hesitate to give any advice, but one thing that might be useful is knowing the size (internal dimensions) of your existing clay flue. This might help push the decision one way or another, on how beneficial a liner may be.

I do know I've seen cases of people connecting into a chimney a floor above the bottom of the flue, and in fact this is how one chimney in my house was configured for 100 years (cookstove in kitchen, connected to chimney that had clean-out in basement). I remember one such case of another forum member last year, where he had the thimble on the floor below open, drawing cold air into the flue, below his stove connection. That causes him some serious issues, which were solved when he properly plugged the thimble below. No word on whether this is code compliant, but I recall it did work.

 

[frankinri]

Looks like it has some type of liner that's 7 1/2 inches inside.

 

[frankinri]

This is pictures from the basement where the old oil boiler used to be.

 

[frankinri]

Also do you think this 30 would be overkill In my house (1040sq ft). Maybe I should be looking at the 13.

 

[begreen]

Is that 1040 sq ft including the basement or not? The cellar oil burner hole would need to be sealed air tight. What is under the ceramic tile? Most Englander stoves needs much more than just ember protection for their hearth. I suspect that there would need to be more protection. Passing through a wall requires adequate protection from nearby combustibles. If you want a stove which will work on the current ceramic flooring you will need to get a stove that requires ember protection only like the TrueNorth TN19. Connecting the stove sounds like it may take a bit of reframing at the connection to achieve proper clearances.

Read this article for more info on passing through a wall:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

 

[aansorge]

1. Floor Protection
You will not need any floor protection if your
floor is constructed of a non-combustible material
such as brick or concrete. If your floor is
constructed with a combustible material such as
hardwood, carpet or linoleum, you must place
protection between the stove and the combustible
material.

There are many floor and wall board
manufacturers, and you should be very cautious
in choosing the proper protection. The type board
you choose should be U.L. rated and listed. After examining the area you plan to place your stove
and determining it requires a board, the next step is to select the proper size. The stove you
choose will determine the size board that is required. The approved protector board should be
large enough to provide a minimum of eight inches (8”) behind the unit, eight inches (8”) on both
sides and sixteen inches (16”) in the front where the door is located. The protection must have an
R-value of 1.5 (English units) or equivalent (See “Installation on a Combustible Floor”). This stove
requires a minimum 39.0” x 52.5” floor protection.

 

[frankinri]

Is that 1040 sq ft including the basement or not? The cellar oil burner hole would need to be sealed air tight. What is under the ceramic tile? Most Englander stoves needs much more than just ember protection for their hearth. I suspect that there would need to be more protection. Passing through a wall requires adequate protection from nearby combustibles. If you want a stove which will work on the current ceramic flooring you will need to get a stove that requires ember protection only like the TrueNorth TN19. Connecting the stove sounds like it may take a bit of reframing at the connection to achieve proper clearances.

Read this article for more info on passing through a wall:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney

The 1040 is not including the basement. The stove would be on the main floor sealed off from the basement. Under the grouted tile floor is the wood subfloor. I wanted to stick with englander. Did I misunderstand the meaning of non-combustible? From the PDF I thought the tile floor would be ok. I will check out that post, thanks.

 

[frankinri]

1. Floor Protection
You will not need any floor protection if your
floor is constructed of a non-combustible material
such as brick or concrete. If your floor is
constructed with a combustible material such as
hardwood, carpet or linoleum, you must place
protection between the stove and the combustible
material.

There are many floor and wall board
manufacturers, and you should be very cautious
in choosing the proper protection. The type board
you choose should be U.L. rated and listed. After examining the area you plan to place your stove
and determining it requires a board, the next step is to select the proper size. The stove you
choose will determine the size board that is required. The approved protector board should be
large enough to provide a minimum of eight inches (8”) behind the unit, eight inches (8”) on both
sides and sixteen inches (16”) in the front where the door is located. The protection must have an
R-value of 1.5 (English units) or equivalent (See “Installation on a Combustible Floor”). This stove
requires a minimum 39.0” x 52.5” floor protection.

Is the grouted tile floor considered non combustible because I thought it was. Did I understand the PDF with a rear heat shield this is ok at 8 inches from a combustible wall?

 

[begreen]

The 1040 is not including the basement. The stove would be on the main floor sealed off from the basement. Under the grouted tile floor is the wood subfloor. I wanted to stick with englander. Did I misunderstand the meaning of non-combustible? From the PDF I thought the tile floor would be ok. I will check out that post, thanks.

aansorge pasted a quote right from the manual. You will need much more than just tile on wood to protect the floor for either the 30NC or the 13NC. our floor is considered a combustible floor. An non-combustible floor would be something like tile on a basement cement slab floor.

FYI, based on your requirements I think you would do fine with a 2 cu ft stove.

 

[frankinri]

aansorge pasted a quote right from the manual. You will need much more than just tile on wood to protect the floor for either the 30NC or the 13NC. our floor is considered a combustible floor. An non-combustible floor would be something like tile on a basement cement slab floor.

FYI, based on your requirements I think you would do fine with a 2 cu ft stove.

Cool thanks I checked out the link. Still not sure if I could use a product to get through the wall without cutting studs. Being so close to a corner not sure I could eliminate the studs at the corner.

 

[begreen]

Need some pictures of the proposed stove location to comment further. With a shielded thimble you shouldn't have to cut more than one stud, then frame to support the wall.

 

[frankinri]

Was going to be here. The corner has the chimney right behind it.

 

[begreen]

I merged the posts for clarity. Looks like it's going to take a little exploratory wall surgery to see what is behind the wall here.

 

[frankinri]

Here is the corner. The chimney is in there.

 

[frankinri]

Merged posts for clarity. Looks like it's going to take a little exploratory wall surgery to see what is behind the wall here.

It's in the wall. There is a closet on the other side.

 

[begreen]

Got it. I think it is going to either take some probing with an awl or cutting out a small window to determine what is behind the sheetrock.

 

[frankinri]

Well I know there is going to be corner studs. Then most likely 16 on center studs leaving as space around 15 inches. Can any of the wall pass devices work in a space that small?

 

[begreen]

Prolly not. You may have to cut a stud to the left of the corner and box frame to the next stud.
(broken link removed to http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4033)

 

[frankinri]

Prolly not. You may have to cut a stud to the left of the corner and box frame to the next stud.
(broken link removed to http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4033)

That device needs 16 wide. I would be able to shave the studs down to get that in there. Thing is it may not be centered on the chimney. Not sure I would have another choice because I can't eliminate the corner studs.