Please help identify old wood furnace

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2AFarmer

New Member
Jan 22, 2024
4
Upstate New York
Hi there, I bought my first home back in May of last year. It came with this indoor wood burning furnace. I am looking for information on it but can’t find any model numbers or information other than DEEPWOOD on the door but my searches haven’t been successful. . The heating oil that my main furnace runs on is very expensive so I’d like to get a manual for this wood burning furnace so I can learn how to properly run it/service it.

I know very little about HVAC and have never used wood to heat a home so it has been a learning curve. I am struggling to keep a fire going while the furnace door is closed. The wood will burn to ash but it’s as if it’s smoldering in embers until the moment I open the door the flame comes right back. From videos I’ve watched of other wood burning furnaces people have roaring fires and practically heat themselves out of their homes with them, but mine barely maintains my home’s temperature let alone heats enough to raise it.

Any input is greatly appreciated thank you!

(These are the only pictures I have currently I will get more tomorrow if needed)

[Hearth.com] Please help identify old wood furnace [Hearth.com] Please help identify old wood furnace [Hearth.com] Please help identify old wood furnace
 
The little blower on the front should be running when the thermostat is calling for heat. There will be no smoldering once that thing comes on - more like a blast furnace. It could be as simple as the thermostat - if you have one. If there's 2 wires to the thermostat, jump them together and the blower should come on. If not, then the real troubleshooting begins. As a stopgap, you could try removing the blower and going with natural draft. Many prefer to run these that way, I did. The on/off with the blower is not a very efficient or clean way to run.

Consider replacing it with a modern furnace and cut a lot less wood! Though these will crank out the heat like nothing else if you get that blower running.

I'm not familiar with that particular furnace, but it's somewhat similar to the Clayton furnace I had from US Stove. You should be able to search up the manual for that and get some general ideas while you search for your specific manual.
 
I'm with Griz about getting a modern stove.
What is the location noted below Deepwood on the door? I a can see WIS, but not the city. Might be a clue to the manufacturer.
 
Is it heating your home? I agree with all said above. Converting to natural draft will help save on wood but, you'll want well seasoned wood. Below 20% moisture content. Even with a forced induction blower, you would benefit from dry wood. The blower makes it a bit more forgiving. You'll need a 24 volt operated solenoid to control natural draft. If the blower is not working, or oil furnace blower, you may have a faulty fan limit switch. More info is needed for us to guide you. Has your flue been cleaned?
 
Yup, I wouldn't put too much time/effort into that ole beast...they are VERY inefficient (old wood furnaces in general)
 
The little blower on the front should be running when the thermostat is calling for heat. There will be no smoldering once that thing comes on - more like a blast furnace. It could be as simple as the thermostat - if you have one. If there's 2 wires to the thermostat, jump them together and the blower should come on. If not, then the real troubleshooting begins. As a stopgap, you could try removing the blower and going with natural draft. Many prefer to run these that way, I did. The on/off with the blower is not a very efficient or clean way to run.

Consider replacing it with a modern furnace and cut a lot less wood! Though these will crank out the heat like nothing else if you get that blower running.

I'm not familiar with that particular furnace, but it's somewhat similar to the Clayton furnace I had from US Stove. You should be able to search up the manual for that and get some general ideas while you search for your specific manual.
Thank you for the input, the blower on the front comes on initially but turns off pretty quick after the fire is started. It will turn off even if the temperature is under what the thermostat is set to, is that normal?
 
Is it heating your home? I agree with all said above. Converting to natural draft will help save on wood but, you'll want well seasoned wood. Below 20% moisture content. Even with a forced induction blower, you would benefit from dry wood. The blower makes it a bit more forgiving. You'll need a 24 volt operated solenoid to control natural draft. If the blower is not working, or oil furnace blower, you may have a faulty fan limit switch. More info is needed for us to guide you. Has your flue been cleaned?
It will raise the houses temp a degree or two when it first starts, but I’ve just been using my oil to hear the home to the desired temperature and the wood stove to maintain it.

As for the flue being cleaned. I was told everything was cleaned before I moved in. I just ordered a chimney pipe cleaner and was going to clean it this week to see if that helps. I’m sure my first couple fires I burned pretty cold and created build up in the flue.
 
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The wood furnace's induction blower should run until the call for heat has been met, via house thermostat.
 
You appear to have an Energy Mate furnace built in Tomah Wisconsin. I did some searching, there doesn't seem to be much out there about them but interestingly I did find an old thread in this forum about an Energy Mate furnace that looks just like yours. There is some info on similar problems. It is in this Boiler Room forum titled Energymate Wood Furnace.