Please help us pick a used stove!

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Eliza10

New Member
Aug 31, 2020
35
Northeast USA
We want to buy a used stove SOON. This week preferably. I dearly would like your experienced advice concerning the choices available to us now. We have no wood stove experience. We will have alternative heat for blackouts, and we have woods behind our house for quite a ways, so in desperate times there is wood around (plenty of old fallen wood too).

WHY: I want to get the stove and the help we need to put it in place in a hurry because I am not trusting the covid shutdowns I see likely to happen in September, which I believe will be make isolation twice as strict, at least, as the last. We have a mason that can do the tile work for us next week (we probably could learn as we are both big DIYers, but my husband and I are both hard at work on other necessary projects). So, that is why the big hurry.

The big rush: We have a stove coming Wednesday, because the FB Mkplace seller is willing to bring it with a friend an hour here to our driveway. I was so excited. I wanted a used Jotel, but I read these reviews: https://www.wiseheat.com/reviews/17363/Jotul-F-400-Castine. I need to let him know NO LATER than the first thing Wed. morning if I am going to cancel the sale. He is coming in the afternoon and has already marked it sold for me on his listing. So I have basically one day to make a decision to back out of now, and I am overwhelmed, as all this stove stuff is new to me. I hope someone who is knowledgeable and not stressed out can help me decide.

WHAT we have so far: We will put in the Rockford chimney liners ourselves. We got a 6" for the stove and a 4" for the water heater and a specially made chimney cap is on the way for that. We already have thimble in place. The mason will work with ,my husband to tile and build the 1"-space wall and the right floor.


House Size: We estimate our house is 1400 sq. ft but that might be an overestimation. To be more precise, the two floors of our center chimney 1909 colonial house are 1200 sq.ft., and in addition to that, we use the attic space. The stairs now continue to the converted attic space where you can stand in the middle and also stand at the 3 dormer windows (two front, one back) as well as the dormer shower room (back). The main floor is also flanked with two small rooms (converted from porches).

Insulation: The house is variously insulated. Some poorly, like the stairwell wall from 1st to 2nd floor, some well, like the converted-porch entry room done with spray foam on top, bottom, sides (except that room has a lot of windows), others in fiberglass (when wallboard replaced the plaster lathe in those rooms).

STOVES BEING CONSIDERED:

The one being delivered tomorrow (unless someone tells me I shouldn't get this). The seller says, "Wife wants to go with gas we used it 1 season I got the stove from an estate where it had been on a pallet for 10+ years unused". It is $650, no pipe :
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Here are some other choices:

This one has no info just "used-fair" and they will get back to me on make and model:
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$800, Vermont Castings Intrepid II, 1990 [This seems small, too small for our house or just right? And is a stove like this harder to fit standard wood in?]
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Here is another intrepid II, for $1100. But is that a door on the right side? We need it on the left, if there is one:
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Is this one too small? "Vermont Castings Resolute wood stove w/chimney pipe $1,500" Are stovepipes really about $100? We don't have one of those either! Here is the details on it, then the pic: Nice, clean Vermont Castings Resolute wood stove. This stove heated our 1000 sq. ft. home for many years. It heats great and you can even cook/warm food on the top griddle. We had many cozy nights laying in front of this stove's warm glow. Stove is recently re-blacked and was in service until this Spring. We have expanded our home and bought a bigger stove. The included chimney would be suitable for a 1-story home, or could be extended for a 2-story home. Please see itemized parts below. The stovepipe parts alone would be over $1000 new. This listing includes: -Stove -Front screen -5 pcs. of 24" Amerivent triple wall galvanized chimney pipe -Matching Amerivent through-wall kit (Includes Tee, wall thimble, and outside support bracket) -OEM gasket kit for future servicing :
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There are more on craigslist so here they are:

This is only $500!, Its a "Jotul 3TDIC woodstove w/ catalytic converter (replaced 3 years ago). Also includes pop-in screen and some pipe. Could be used for fireplace pit or for indoor heating. Takes 18" logs. "
(Are 18" logs les than standard and so would make things difficult? Also re: catalytic - my husband has good understanding of mechanical things so I think we would be okay with a catalytic needing more watchfulness. If we used it we will be here watching it since it will be for use in power outage or economic breakdown. So log conservation is good I'd think. Right?
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Jotul Oslo F500 wood stove - $1,600 "
"Norwegian Oslo 500 wood stove Comes dis-assembled (so requires assembly before use) Comparative stoves sell upwards of $2,000 refurbished " (I wonder why it's ;dissembled"? Shoudl I ask some questions?)
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This one also offers stovepipe:
JOTUL model 3TD Ivory color enamel wood stove. Good condition, includes stove pipe asking $750 Or Best Offer.
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This next one is an hour, 45min. away and I wanted about one hour max because of the costs of paying someone to move it for us, but I would do it if it were the right choice for us. It is $1500, but again, is 18" log going to be a difficulty?
Jotul F3 CB wood Stove "Wood stove in excellent condition. Heating capacity: up to 1300 SQFT. Max Output: 42,000 btu.
Approx weight: 265 lbs. Log size: Up to 18 in. Flue Outlet: 6 in. Flue exit options: Top and Rear. Efficiency: HHV 72.79%-LHV 78.71%"
But these reviews for that model don't look so great: https://www.wiseheat.com/wood-stoves/jotul_f_3_cb
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Thank you to anyone who can offer their favorite pick for our needs. I am overwhelmed! I need to know if there are important cautions or drawbacks to that first one which is being delivered Wed. afternoon unless I learn here by early that morning that it is the wrong one and I should pick another. and if it is the wrong one for my space. Probably there are cautions about all of these, but I need to pick one from the offerings here, and then get to know what we need to do and be cautious of, and make plans to work with its expected issues. And we need to buy wood, which I know must b e seasoned but that is about it.

I will be asking about wood here later, too, but I have to get a stove here first.

Thank you, thank you, thank you in advance for any advice on this. Which I need asap!
 
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FWI, this is the wall it is going on. It is now the most decorated wall in the house, but all those things, the shelf, the wall decor, the desk, the plates are getting out of there.

A tiled wall with the proper 1" space behind it will go behind the new stove. To the right is the chimney, which my husband says shouldn't need anything done to it, as he covered it years ago with "plaster render" directly on top of the brick chimney. The top decorative plate covers the chimney hole. which has a thimble.

I know regulations now call for a huge tiled floor, but this is a small space, our dining room (we can move the table back a bit, as we will get rid of a cabinet against the opposite wall). If we were to make the tile floor the new regulation size, it will go right to the middle of the kitchen doorway! Two different heights of floor in the middle of the doorway we use all the time! That would be too awkward.
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But I can see in the pics of stoves, above, that people traditionally have used much smaller tile pads for their stoves. So I want ours to be only as wide as the doorway itself, which will be wider than most of those others I see. Of course the tile floor will go all the way over to the chimney wall, and in the front will stick out as far as is safe.
 
Out of those I would stick with the castine. It is simple and reliable. Most of the other choices are not.

You should have had your wood stacked and drying at minimum a year ago. Trying to find dry wood will be difficult and expensive if you do. And using wet wood will be very frustrating.
 
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FWI, this is the wall it is going on. It is now the most decorated wall in the house, but all those things, the shelf, the wall decor, the desk, the plates are getting out of there.

A tiled wall with the proper 1" space behind it will go behind the new stove. To the right is the chimney, which my husband says shouldn't need anything done to it, as he covered it years ago with "plaster render" directly on top of the brick chimney. The top decorative plate covers the chimney hole. which has a thimble.

I know regulations now call for a huge tiled floor, but this is a small space, our dining room (we can move the table back a bit, as we will get rid of a cabinet against the opposite wall). If we were to make the tile floor the new regulation size, it will go right to the middle of the kitchen doorway! Two different heights of floor in the middle of the doorway we use all the time!View attachment 262679 That would be too awkward.

But I can see in the pics of stoves, above, that people traditionally have used much smaller tile pads for their stoves. So I want ours to be only as wide as the doorway itself, which will be wider than most of those others I see. Of course the tile floor will go all the way over to the chimney wall, and in the front will stick out as far as is safe.
You can't possibly build the hearth and shielding without knowing the specific requirements of the stove. The requirements vary greatly
 
You can't possibly build the hearth and shielding without knowing the specific requirements of the stove. The requirements vary greatly

How do you think that works for the Castine? (The back wall is 8' x 42"). This is the only place we have for a wood stove in our smallish house.
(and will you please check out the 2nd stove in the second posting that I just added in?)
 
How do you think that works for the Castine? (The back wall is 8' x 42"). This is the only place we have for a wood stove in our smallish house.
By reading the manual or the ul tag on the stove. You also need to know if the stove has bottom and back heat shields.

 
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By reading the manual or the ul tag on the stove. You also need to know if the stove has bottom and back heat shields.

Okay, thank you, I will ask my husband to read that in the morning. In case youdidn't see it, I edited post #2, can you tell me what you think of that 2nd stove. Its more expensive but how does it compare to the Castine?
 
Okay, thank you, I will ask my husband to read that in the morning. In case youdidn't see it, I edited post #2, can you tell me what you think of that 2nd stove. Its more expensive but how does it compare to the Castine?
The Oslo is a great stove and I believe bigger than the castine. But the price is completely absurd for a disasembled stove. It should be maybe 1/4 of that.
 
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Thanks so much! I probably don't need a bigger stove. And the price is a big deal. We will have to buy a stovepipe for the Castine. I wonder how much that will set us back?

I am relieved to see in that manual you provided that the floor covering required for this F 400 is smaller than the size I did not want to go bigger than. Phew! The other stats for wall and distance my husband will be glad to see.

The wood, oh, dear, i was worried about that. I know there are many considerations about wood that I am unaware of and I am going to ask more Q's hear later about that.

Well so far, it looks like it will be the Castine. Perhaps someone will weigh in with another consideration. It will be easier to stick with our plan to buy the Castine, but if there is some compelling reason to, we will back out.
 
The experts are right, dry wood is key.

Look into pressed wood logs (North Idaho Energy Logs) for this first year as you get situated on your wood pile. They are wonderful, putting out a lot of heat per log. Buy a pallet which will contain 240 logs.

I had the wet wood situation and someone recommended pressed logs. There are other brands, but these logs come highly recommended.
 
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Agreed, I would go with the Castine. That is an older one, with the split door, but if it is in lightly used condition it could be ok. The F3CB would also work. The most important thing for you to do now is to download the manual(s) and make sure that the stove's clearance requirements can be met in the proposed location. Make a mockup of the stove's footprint and the hearth size and put it in the proper place respecting the clearance requirements.

Some of these prices are wishful thinking. For example, I bought the Resolute pictured, new in 1980 for about $450.
 
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Where in the NE are you? I have a Vermont Castings Vigilant 1977 in great shape that I just decided to sell.
The clearance requirements would not work out here.
 
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Agreed, I would go with the Castine. That is an older one, with the split door, but if it is in lightly used condition it could be ok. The F3CB would also work. The most important thing for you to do now is to download the manual(s) and make sure that the stove's clearance requirements can be met in the proposed location. Make a mockup of the stove's footprint and the hearth size and put it in the proper place respecting the clearance requirements.

Some of these prices are wishful thinking. For example, I bought the Resolute pictured, new in 1980 for about $450.
I agree on the Castine. I do think the asking for the Resolute is high, but don't forget $450 in 1980 is about $1,400 today. ;)
 
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That was the price new. By that metric, used it should be worth about 1/2 new price if in great condition or $700. Typically they go for less unless we are in the silly season (Oct.-Dec.).
 
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Where in the NE are you? I have a Vermont Castings Vigilant 1977 in great shape that I just decided to sell.
I have one I need to get rid of myself. Any idea on what they are worth in the real world? Great heater I thought I'd keep as a shed heater but that ain't going to happen.
It's taking up real estate in my cellar and I want that space back.

As for the OP I'd be on that first stove no question.
 
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I have one I need to get rid of myself. Any idea on what they are worth in the real world? Great heater I thought I'd keep as a shed heater but that ain't going to happen.
It's taking up real estate in my cellar and I want that space back.

As for the OP I'd be on that first stove no question.
Answered in the Classics forum.
 
I have one I need to get rid of myself. Any idea on what they are worth in the real world? Great heater I thought I'd keep as a shed heater but that ain't going to happen.
It's taking up real estate in my cellar and I want that space back.

As for the OP I'd be on that first stove no question.
Lol. I hear you! begreen answered me in the classics forum as I was asking the same thing.
 
The 2nd stove on the first post here is "Vermont castings encore2040 catalytic/ non-catalytic S.n. #0002041b1101000109 "

Joe, we are in western CT. Thanks, begreen, for checking out the clearance info on that.

Brazilbi, I will look into that wood as soon as I am able.

Begreen, my husband looked at the manual and yes we will get the wall and floor to the specifications. He didn't look closely yet but tyo me it looks like it works. We are in the midst of other DIY things too! So the F3BC seems to be "catalytic". Is that better if in the long term - I see it as a real possibility - this is all we have to heat the house all winter? Then how would the split doors pose an issue?

Thanks BadLP for weighing in. It looks like the Castine is the going recommendation.

I only wonder about catalytic vs. non-catalytic - what regrets might we have for going non-catalytic?.
 
The 2nd stove on the first post here is "Vermont castings encore2040 catalytic/ non-catalytic S.n. #0002041b1101000109 "

Joe, we are in western CT. Thanks, begreen, for checking out the clearance info on that.

Brazilbi, I will look into that wood as soon as I am able.

Begreen, my husband looked at the manual and yes we will get the wall and floor to the specifications. He didn't look closely yet but tyo me it looks like it works. We are in the midst of other DIY things too! So the F3BC seems to be "catalytic". Is that better if in the long term - I see it as a real possibility - this is all we have to heat the house all winter? Then how would the split doors pose an issue?

Thanks BadLP for weighing in. It looks like the Castine is the going recommendation.

I only wonder about catalytic vs. non-catalytic - what regrets might we have for going non-catalytic?.
The benifit of good cat stoves is longer burns with lower heat output. If that fits your needs that's great. But it comes with extra complexity and increased maintenance costs. But for many that trade off is well worth it. The problem is none of the stoves listed are very good cat stoves.
 
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Begreen, my husband looked at the manual and yes we will get the wall and floor to the specifications. He didn't look closely yet but tyo me it looks like it works. We are in the midst of other DIY things too! So the F3BC seems to be "catalytic". Is that better if in the long term - I see it as a real possibility - this is all we have to heat the house all winter? Then how would the split doors pose an issue?
You have several F3 variations listed. Some of the older models had a catalyst for about a decade. The Jotul F3CB version is the most recent and it is a non-catalytic stove. It is the next size down from the F400 Castine. If you are considering a catalytic stove I would get new and look at the Blaze King Ashford.
 
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bholler, I guess the idea of increased maintenance costs for the catalytic is another good point for the Jotul that comes tomorrow. Which i have decided to go with. Thank you, bholler, so much, and everyone here, for helping me make a decision! I was so overwhelmed last night and now I have peace that I have made the best decision I could with what was available to me at this time.

begreen, the $650 stove is looking real good now, with the need to purchase two chimney liners, stove pipe, bespoke chimney cap, wall and floor protection, and wood at a premium price because it is late to do so, and a variety of other little costs adding up. But if times improve economically (though I have little confidence they will) then the Blaze King does sound like a good choice for a "next stove". It is a good price for a new stove.
 
If your really gun hoe on installing a woodstove for this season, please allocate at least $500.00 into compressed wood blocks for burning, one of the things you can do right away is buy (1) ton of bricks which equal approx 1.2 cords of wood, then on black friday or cyber monday take advantage of the sales and buy another 2 or 3 tons, (tractor supply) runs a pretty nice black friday sale on redstone fuel bricks, but there also might be deals at homedepot / lowes (they're still relatively new to carrying those products and personally I think the mark up is quite high for them) lumber yards, outdoor supply companies, and stove shops also carry different brands of these, you just got to call around and see whats available.
Redstone bricks from tractor supply are pretty middle of the road in quality, there are worse, and there are better products, some have geographic restrictions due to shipping costs. Since you have a smaller home, I would think you would prob burn about 3.5 cords a full season in a newer epa style stove, also if you do have semi dry wood you can mix the blocks with the wood, but I think its highly unlikely that you'll get enough dry cord wood to mix with compressed wood blocks, so figure 3 pallets worth for your first season.
Start cutting, splitting and stacking now for next year, generally oak takes a minimum of 2 years to hit prime moisture content of 18% around our parts, so try to find more maple, birch, ash and cherry. A cord of wood measures 4ft wide x 4ft high x 8ft long of 128cu ft.
 
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Kenny, I appreciate the wood advice! I am going to think seriously about wood soon. Right now is the stovepipe installation mystery.

The stove arrived today! It looks good!

My husband is going to post here using my login to find out what he needs to know about stovepipe.