Please Identify

[ToddWatkins]

Coaly or Todd67, I was hoping you could identify and tell me production year of this stove I have the opportunity to buy.

 

[CamFan]

probably a CSA Gma

 

[ToddWatkins]

probably a CSA Gma

What is csa. I think gma means grandma. I’m pretty new at this.

 

[CamFan]

CSA I Canadian Standards Does it have a half heat shield in the back? We were told that is what they were building them. I’ll probably get proven wrong. Lol. Gma lll solid door.


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[ToddWatkins]

CSA I Canadian Standards Does it have a half heat shield in the back? We were told that is what they were building them. I’ll probably get proven wrong. Lol. Gma lll solid door.


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There is a piece of steel that runs along the bottom quarter length of the back of the stove. I was just hoping it was ul listed but I guess not

 

[Todd67]

Looks like a Grandma Bear to me. Does it have a UL tag anywhere on it? It might have a manufacture tag on the back.

 

[ToddWatkins]

Looks like a Grandma Bear to me. Does it have a UL tag anywhere on it? It might have a manufacture tag on the back.

No tag at all on back
What are your thoughts on restoring it
Can you tell what condition it’s in from the picture

 

[CamFan]

That had a tag. It was listed. If they were stick on they fell off. We riveted them on.


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[CamFan]

How much is it? To clean it up and restore it would be easy. But I am used to it an have what I need.


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[ToddWatkins]

How much is it? To clean it up and restore it would be easy. But I am used to it an have what I need.


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300

 

[ToddWatkins]

300

What all would I need

 

[Todd67]

CamFan built Fisher stoves in Georgia when Fisher was still in business, just so you know he has some knowledge on Fisher stoves

You would need some wire wheels for a drill or angle grinder (no grinding is needed). Use PB Blaster or WD-40 to loosen up the rust. Don't use wire wheels or brushes on any parts that are chrome or gold colored, if it has any such trim around the doors. Clean up the oil (WD or PB) with dry rags, then lacquer thinner. Wipe it dry again and paint with Stove Bright satin black colored paint (brush on) or Rutland black stove paint.

 

[CamFan]

I would sandblast it. Everything but doors if they are nickel or brass. If brick are missing or broken. Replace all of them. Sand the top after blasting. Replace gasket before painting. It will last longer
300.00 buy it.


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[ToddWatkins]

I would sandblast it. Everything but doors if they are nickel or brass. If brick are missing or broken. Replace all of them. Sand the top after blasting. Replace gasket before painting. It will last longer
300.00 buy it.


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Thanks so much guys. You keep answering I’ll keep asking. How can I tell if the handles and vents are ok. Handles work but seems loose. Are they easily fixed. If I go the oil soak direction how long do I leave the pb blaster on it. It comes with a reducer from 8 to 6 inch pipe which I need because my coal stove is connected to 6 in pipe. Know anyone that wants a great coal stove in excellent condition

 

[CamFan]

Judging by the right door handle. The gasket is gone. That will tighten it if missing. If it’s there it’s easy but you should heat the latching part on the door. Bend it in maybe 1/4”. Both handles should be at the same angle. The draft caps should spin.


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[ToddWatkins]

Judging by the right door handle. The gasket is gone. That will tighten it if missing. If it’s there it’s easy but you should heat the latching part on the door. Bend it in maybe 1/4”. Both handles should be at the same angle. The draft caps should spin.


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The caps do spin. Is it hard to get gaskets and other parts like the screen on my in laws fisher.

 

[CamFan]

5/8 or7/8 flat gasket and one tube gasket cement.
I googled 5/8 flat wood stove gasket. Amazon. Has it. You’ll need 6’ I think. Measure to be sure.


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[Todd67]

I wouldn't put a gasket on that door just yet. Someone bent that right door handle by applying too much brute force to latch the door closed. That can be fixed by bending the inside door latch until it makes the right door handle match the angle of the left door handle. Heat the inside door latch up with a torch and bend it. I'm willing to bet that you can fix that door handle without using a gasket. Fisher made that stove without a gasket, so it shouldn't have one unless the doors won't seal properly with the door latch bent properly first.

My Grandma Bear needs a latch adjustment in order to close properly. The previous owner used it to heat his garage and it worked just fine without a gasket.

 

[CamFan]

If you bend the handle first then add gasket it won’t match again and yes all these came off the line with gasket. It does not concern me so I’ll back out of this.


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[Todd67]

If you bend the handle first then add gasket it won’t match again and yes all these came off the line with gasket. It does not concern me so I’ll back out of this.


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I've been told all along on this forum that the only Fisher stoves that came with gaskets were the stoves with glass doors. That's all I'm going by. I'm not trying to debate anything here. We only know what we've been told here.

 

[coaly]

Here's a new Grandma III. No gasket.


I've never seen one use gasket material in PA.

Could have been a GA thing to add a gasket to some models, but it's not in manuals or mentioned in an any Fisher literature.
I have plenty of pics showing no sign of cement in the seal channel.

One way to determine if it makes contact in the center of door seal channel is apply grease to raised portion of door where it should contact the center of sealing channel iron. Close and latch door. If grease transfers to center of channel you have contact without gasket.
It should make contact on the edges of channel iron on the flat back of door as well as in the center of channel iron. This makes 3 points of contact all the way around.
They can loosen over time, (hinge pin wear) or have hinge plates welded so there is not enough contact. Built correctly I've never seen one need gasket material. After adjusting door handle latch rod, you can close doors on a dollar bill and drag it out checking resistance all the way around. Flat gasket material for installing glass is the only type that can be used. Normal round gasket for other brands is far too thick and does not allow doors to close fully.
Another test is cutting strips of cardboard and set in the door seal channel iron. Close doors on a dollar bill in the center door seam. If the cardboard holds doors open too far to pinch dollar bill, gasket material will prevent the doors from closing fully.

Simply clean up the stove and test fire to cure paint. Close doors and close air intake dampers. Fire should go out, or glow with no flames verifying a good seal.

Too much of a perfect seal is also not a good thing. Just like a coal stove with secondary air inlet, the smoke particles or flammable gasses released from the wood require oxygen to ignite. A slight air leak at the top admits this oxygen near the baffle area allowing more smoke particles to ignite. So slight air leakage is not a bad thing. It doesn't take much! As an example, European coal stoves use glass slats instead of solid glass. The slats expand lengthwise allowing a slight air leak between glass panels for this secondary oxygen.

When the UL tag is missing, it is no longer a listed appliance.
Not sure what state you're in, but most states have adopted the ICC family of codes and no longer allow ANY reduction of pipe or flue size.
NFPA allowed 1 inch reduction, ICC mechanical code allows none. Your state or country determines which to use.
That said, the stove will normally work fine with the proper chimney. It just isn't legal to install or use.

 

[coaly]

Before letting that coal stove go, think about storing it in case you ever need it!
I have both coal and wood stove installed now. I have enough land to cut standing dead and storm damaged trees for fuel, but a medical emergency over the summer prevented me from wood processing all summer. I've taken different years off for a break doing wood as well, so having a coal stove that requires so much less work is a huge benefit.

 

[ToddWatkins]

Here's a new Grandma III. No gasket.

View attachment 251172
I've never seen one use gasket material in PA.

Could have been a GA thing to add a gasket to some models, but it's not in manuals or mentioned in an any Fisher literature.
I have plenty of pics showing no sign of cement in the seal channel.

One way to determine if it makes contact in the center of door seal channel is apply grease to raised portion of door where it should contact the center of sealing channel iron. Close and latch door. If grease transfers to center of channel you have contact without gasket.
It should make contact on the edges of channel iron on the flat back of door as well as in the center of channel iron. This makes 3 points of contact all the way around.
They can loosen over time, (hinge pin wear) or have hinge plates welded so there is not enough contact. Built correctly I've never seen one need gasket material. After adjusting door handle latch rod, you can close doors on a dollar bill and drag it out checking resistance all the way around. Flat gasket material for installing glass is the only type that can be used. Normal round gasket for other brands is far too thick and does not allow doors to close fully.
Another test is cutting strips of cardboard and set in the door seal channel iron. Close doors on a dollar bill in the center door seam. If the cardboard holds doors open too far to pinch dollar bill, gasket material will prevent the doors from closing fully.

Simply clean up the stove and test fire to cure paint. Close doors and close air intake dampers. Fire should go out, or glow with no flames verifying a good seal.

Too much of a perfect seal is also not a good thing. Just like a coal stove with secondary air inlet, the smoke particles or flammable gasses released from the wood require oxygen to ignite. A slight air leak at the top admits this oxygen near the baffle area allowing more smoke particles to ignite. So slight air leakage is not a bad thing. It doesn't take much! As an example, European coal stoves use glass slats instead of solid glass. The slats expand lengthwise allowing a slight air leak between glass panels for this secondary oxygen.

When the UL tag is missing, it is no longer a listed appliance.
Not sure what state you're in, but most states have adopted the ICC family of codes and no longer allow ANY reduction of pipe or flue size.
NFPA allowed 1 inch reduction, ICC mechanical code allows none. Your state or country determines which to use.
That said, the stove will normally work fine with the proper chimney. It just isn't legal to install or use.

Uh. It’s illegal to install and use this stove???????

 

[CamFan]

In the north maybe. In the south if your insurance will cover you people put them in. I know of one going in this week. Square door gma. Code says your supposed to have the ul plate but.... if you maintain clearance and use a class a chimney common sense prevails


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[ToddWatkins]

In the north maybe. In the south if your insurance will cover you people put them in. I know of one going in this week. Square door gma. Code says your supposed to have the ul plate but.... if you maintain clearance and use a class a chimney common sense prevails


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CamFan or coaly or todd67. I guess I’m old school. I’d appreciate talking to you all on the phone. Feel free to call me at 502.525.2723