plumbing for washing machine

[iron]

i am planning to remodel our basement shortly. we would like to move the washer dryer from its current location (shared with a bathroom) to its own room. we would also like to move an exterior door for functionality purposes. if we move the exterior door, we will be effectively eliminating a simple plumbing extension from the current washer drain location to the new washer location as the door will be cutting through where the plumbing line would be.

so, i'm thinking of possibly tying into a drain line coming from the upstairs kitchen.

1. is it possible to do this or is it a code violation?
2. how high can i conceivably extend the washing machine drain line to tie into the plumbing line? i think it'll be about 7' unless i put the W/D on a platform on the floor

 

[heat seeker]

Your washer manual will tell you how high the machine can pump. I think 7' is more than the machine can handle. You could use a tank with an ejector pump to get the height. The machine dumps into the tank, and the tank pump raises the water to the overhead drain.

 

[Buzz Saw]

1. Yes you can tie into the drain from the kitchen. 2" preferred but 1.5" will do. Will most likely have to wet vent, but that is also acceptable.

2. 4' is usually max for a washing machine. Don't base lift off your current machine, but an industry standard for future machines.
An effluent pump is probably your best bet.

So why is the plumbing only coming down 7' from the floor? Is this a vertical or horizontal kitchen pipe?

 

[iron]

1. is my diagram, below, a proper wet vent? is there any additional p-trap required? at this point in time, i'm not totally sure about where the vent to the roof occurs. i know there's not one by the kitchen sink, and i can't picture one anywhere else along that exterior wall. guess i will find out when i tear off some drywall.

2. i could see elevating the W/D 2-3 feet off the floor and use a cabinet with sliding drawers underneath. would need to consider this. otherwise, it seems the effluent pump seems like one more hassle. seems to be about $200 + incidentals. obviously, would need to do some research since plumbing is not a strength of mine.

the existing plumbing i could tie into is about 7' off the basement floor in a chase for a lot of the service for the kitchen (water lines, electrical, etc). hence, there'd be a 7' height difference between new washer and tying into existing kitchen plumbing. does that make sense?

 

[heat seeker]

The washer needs to be on a sturdy surface, since it wants to wobble when spinning. A cabinet would probably not be solid enough, or last very long with the vibrations. Check out the instructions that came with the washer; they no doubt call for a solid surface.

 

[iron]

whatever i build, it'll be sturdy.

 

[semipro]

Our washing machine discharges to drain about 8 ft. above the floor it sits on.
You can detach your discharge hose and run the washer for a cycle while moving the hose end up and down and running the water into a bucket.
I share heatseaker's concerns about elevating the washer and potential vibration.

 

[Highbeam]

People put their washers on pedestals all the time. They even sell pedestals for new ones. It only needs to be as sturdy as a regular wood floor. About the worst that could happen is that the washer would shake its way off of the platform and fall!

 

[sportbikerider78]

I have a platform for my washer and dryer as it straddles existing plumping that I wanted to hide. I highly recommned building a 2x4 support around where you want the washer to sit.
Mine is an old crappy one from likely late 80's that has lots of wiggle. I might even need to reinforce my platform or just strap it down.

 

[Buzz Saw]

People put their washers on pedestals all the time. They even sell pedestals for new ones. It only needs to be as sturdy as a regular wood floor. About the worst that could happen is that the washer would shake its way off of the platform and fall!

Agreed. If you build the platform like a floor and screw/nail it to adjoining walls & floor it will be plenty sturdy.

A curb would not be a bad idea. Heck it could be made into a drip pan like a shower and drain into the sump pump, if that's the route you go.

 

[Highbeam]

Agreed. If you build the platform like a floor and screw/nail it to adjoining walls & floor it will be plenty sturdy.

A curb would not be a bad idea. Heck it could be made into a drip pan like a shower and drain into the sump pump, if that's the route you go.

To keep the washer from sliding off the pedestal you only need a very low curb. Think a piece of baseboard trim nailed to the top surface.

Front loaders are notoriously leaky. Slow leaks, drips while spinning, or even overflows when the poorly designed fill tube is blocked by a sock. I placed my front loader in a catch pan with no drain. The various leaks pool occasionally but the evaporation rate exceeds the leak rate.

 

[iron]

hmm. in our previous place, we had a 2006 year front load with zero issues for 8 years. in our current place, the front load must be 2000 vintage and has no leaks.

 

[heat seeker]

Same here - we are on our second front loader, total of 16 years, not one leak.

 

[firefighterjake]

Front loader washer here for a number of years . . . no issues as well.

Also it's up on a free-standing pedestal that I built using scrap 2 x 4s and boards. Not my finest carpentry work, but it's rugged and does the job. I didn't put a lip on it . . . there is very little movement of the washer . . . at least it hasn't moved much in the many number of years it has been up there and it most certainly has not fallen over.

 

[Highbeam]

hmm. in our previous place, we had a 2006 year front load with zero issues for 8 years. in our current place, the front load must be 2000 vintage and has no leaks.

Good for you, but search the interwebs if you must. They are ticking timebombs.

I'm not a fan of icemakers either. Or more specifically, the hokey pierce type taps used to get water from the house plumbing.

 

[iron]

anyway, is the wet vent sketch i drew more or less correct?

 

[Highbeam]

anyway, is the wet vent sketch i drew more or less correct?

I think you need a P trap. Without it, sewer gasses will leak out. Every laundry drain I've seen in the walls is equipped with a trap.

 

[Buzz Saw]

anyway, is the wet vent sketch i drew more or less correct?

x2 on needing a trap. Check my sketch. How far is it to the vent?

If it's a long distance do it like example #2

anyway, is the wet vent sketch i drew more or less correct?

x2 on needing a trap. Check my sketch. How far is it to the vent?

If it's a long distance do it like example #2



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[iron]

thanks for the sketch.

not sure what the distance is to the vent yet. i looked at my roof last night and saw a vent that seemed plausible for the basement bathroom. if it's actually the right vent, i suspect the distance would be around 10ft from washer to junction with vertical vent to roof.

 

[Buzz Saw]

Another way to do it.

This is a true "wet vent" The trap is being vented by a pipe that has water that flows down it, thusly it's wet.

Another way to do it would be substitute all the vent work and put in an air admittance valve. This method is sometimes the easiest but least desirable because the AAV can fail over time as a pipe will not fail.



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[semipro]

Just FYI air admittance valves are not accepted by some local codes.
Also, if you do use one it has to be accessible for checking and service.
Yet, it may be your best option give that your horizontal distance to a vent is 10 ft. That seems to be pushing it.

 

[Buzz Saw]

Didn't know AAVs weren't up to code in some locations. I find that odd.





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[iron]

got the walls opened up a bit more. it looks like i have a good opportunity to connect to the drain line. see pics.

on the right side of the wall (where the drain penetrates the wall) is the current location of the W/D. the washer has a drain access hole about 3ft above the slab. i presume (haven't opened up those walls yet) that it just straight T's into the drain line seen in this pic.

any updated thoughts? do i have issues with this setup? what should all my connections look like? thanks!

 

[Buzz Saw]

If that horizontal run is 5'ish(looks like 4' based on studs) or less I don't think you will need a vent with 2" pipe. If it's longer I would vent or use 3"

This is way easier than the previous ideas.

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[iron]

that's good news. let's say there is a washer 6' from the junction with the old pipe and i am putting in a sink between the washer and junction. anything different i need to do? if i use 3" pipe, i should be good to go sans vent?