Possible Chimney Fire: Guidance Before Tuesday's Inspection

[No More Smoke-Shows:(]

Hey everyone,

I’m confident we recently had a chimney fire. I didn't realize it until a few weeks later, so I'm 'assuming' (and hoping) it wasn't too extensive.

I’ve called around to about 8 local places to ask how they would inspect for damage, but no one seems to give consistent answers, so I’m not confident in their expertise.

Here are my main questions:

1. I assume they should do a camera inspection. What should I specifically ask for when having a camera inspection done?

• Does the chimney need to be freshly swept before the scope goes in?
• What should they be looking for on the camera footage that might indicate damage?

2. Is it likely that damage, if any, would mostly be at the top section of the chimney?
• If that’s the case, is it possible to just replace the top section rather than the entire flue?

3. Any other tips on what I should be checking or asking the technician to inspect?
• I'd like to make sure I know what to look for to confirm things are safe.

One of the professionals I called suggested that the fact that smoke billowed into the room almost immediately after starting the fire might indicate a blockage, as he mentioned that if there’s no blockage, the smoke often continues to escape out of the chimney without homeowners even realizing a fire occurred. That said, our cap is quite restrictive, so I don’t think birds would’ve been able to get in—if anything, it could potentially be a wasp nest or similar obstruction.

I appreciate any advice you all can offer! He's coming out this Tuesday the 12th.

 

[begreen]

It's possible the cap is plugged which is more likely with restrictive caps, especially if screened.

 

[bholler]

Hey everyone,

I’m confident we recently had a chimney fire. I didn't realize it until a few weeks later, so I'm 'assuming' (and hoping) it wasn't too extensive.

I’ve called around to about 8 local places to ask how they would inspect for damage, but no one seems to give consistent answers, so I’m not confident in their expertise.

Here are my main questions:

1. I assume they should do a camera inspection. What should I specifically ask for when having a camera inspection done?

• Does the chimney need to be freshly swept before the scope goes in?
• What should they be looking for on the camera footage that might indicate damage?

2. Is it likely that damage, if any, would mostly be at the top section of the chimney?
• If that’s the case, is it possible to just replace the top section rather than the entire flue?

3. Any other tips on what I should be checking or asking the technician to inspect?
• I'd like to make sure I know what to look for to confirm things are safe.

One of the professionals I called suggested that the fact that smoke billowed into the room almost immediately after starting the fire might indicate a blockage, as he mentioned that if there’s no blockage, the smoke often continues to escape out of the chimney without homeowners even realizing a fire occurred. That said, our cap is quite restrictive, so I don’t think birds would’ve been able to get in—if anything, it could potentially be a wasp nest or similar obstruction.

I appreciate any advice you all can offer! He's coming out this Tuesday the 12th.

What type of chimney do you have and what makes you think you had a chimney fire?

 

[kborndale]

What type of chimney do you have and what makes you think you had a chimney fire?

Thread 'Help!😩Smoke Billows in Room! NEW Majestic Biltmore 42”'

Aug 31, 2023

Help, please! We have a new home with a detached (don't laugh) "She Shed," all completed in late 2022. The Shed has a wood-burning fireplace that billows smoke into the room within seconds after closing the window (as long as you leave it open, it's okay). I've attached photos of the actual fireplace, the exterior of the Shed, and the "floor plan/blueprint" of the Shed.

Here are some details about the "She Shed" and fireplace:

-Majestic Biltmore 42" (Model SB-80)
-The standard front opening dimensions are 28.5 tall x 42" wide (the height's now slightly reduced after we added a...

• No More Smoke-Shows:(
• billowing smoke into room biltmore 42 smokes into room negative air pressure smokes when window is closed smoking fireplace
• Replies: 156
• Forum: The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces

 

[begreen]

Yes, I have suggested running the fireplace without the cap during a dry spell when temps are in the 40s or 50s to see if that make a marked improvement. I thought the installer going to visit with an extra length of pipe?

 

[kborndale]

Apparently the installer has an issue getting to the top of the chimney even though it is a relatively short chimney. Leads me to question the ability of the installer.

 

[begreen]

Yes, I would think it would be possible to remove the top length including the cap in order to check.

 

[bholler]

A normal little giant type ladder will get you up there no problem. Lightweights lol

 

[No More Smoke-Shows:(]

Apparently the installer has an issue getting to the top of the chimney even though it is a relatively short chimney. Leads me to question the ability of the installer.

I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place, because if the installer isn't comfortable with a ladder on that angled roof (pic attached) I'm not sure what I can do. So begreens suggestion about trying without the cap I liked, but once that pipe is up 11'6" - 13'6" (depending if we add 4' or 6') the installer says he won't be able to get up there to put the cap on.

Anything in particular we should make sure to be watching for when we get an inspection to see if there's any damage to the chimney from the fire?

 

[begreen]

I'd try running it without the cap first. Then if no change try adding 2 ft, not 4 ft. The cap can be attached to the 2 ft section before adding it on.

That photo however, shows what may be another issue if the space is on the leeward side of the house. Air descending off of the adjacent taller roof may be creating a positive pressure zone over the chimney, overcoming the draft.

 

[No More Smoke-Shows:(]

I'd try running it without the cap first. Then if no change try adding 2 ft, not 4 ft. The cap can be attached to the 2 ft section before adding it on.

That photo however, shows what may be another issue if the space is on the leeward side of the house. Air descending off of the adjacent taller roof may be creating a positive pressure zone over the chimney, overcoming the draft.

View attachment 331711

I wondered that about the house next to it as well -but since we've burned onl iterally 0 km/hr winds, and it still smoked, does it make it an unlikely culprit?

Okay, pull the cap and burn it first, that should be easy enough for him. I'm curious why you suggest a 2' instead of a 4' or 6'?

 

[begreen]

I wondered that about the house next to it as well -but since we've burned onl iterally 0 km/hr winds, and it still smoked, does it make it an unlikely culprit?

Okay, pull the cap and burn it first, that should be easy enough for him. I'm curious why you suggest a 2' instead of a 4' or 6'?

2 ft will only require one brace. 4 ft will require another one at 10' and it's going to look like a rocket ship on top of the building.

 

[No More Smoke-Shows:(]

Ha-ha, yes, it sure will! 🚀

So, start 2', and then add a 4' if the 2' doesn't work?

 

[No More Smoke-Shows:(]

I forgot to ask do the braces need to be from the manufacturer (Majestic) or just generic braces fine?

 

[begreen]

Ha-ha, yes, it sure will! 🚀

So, start 2', and then add a 4' if the 2' doesn't work?

Start with the cap off and 2' added for a few days if the weather permits. If that is good, then I would cut out at least some of the slats on the factory cap and add coarse screening if birds are an issue. If the installer wants to do this in one shot and not try without the cap, then at least remove some of the vent slats (50%?) to open up the cap.

The brace needs to fit the chimney pipe well and be rigid and strong enough to properly brace the chimney.

 

[No More Smoke-Shows:(]

I love the idea of modifying the cap, but my husband said that if there if there ever was a fire, that insurance would never cover it if the cap was monkeyed with.

The only other probem I have is we didn't even think the installer was going to come back at all - and I don't think he'll go for coming back on multiple occasions.

Does that change the plan at all, lol?

 

[bholler]

I love the idea of modifying the cap, but my husband said that if there if there ever was a fire, that insurance would never cover it if the cap was monkeyed with.

The only other probem I have is we didn't even think the installer was going to come back at all - and I don't think he'll go for coming back on multiple occasions.

Does that change the plan at all, lol?

It the installer a chimney guy or a general contractor?

 

[No More Smoke-Shows:(]

It the installer a chimney guy or a general contractor?

He owns the fireplace store, and is a Certified WETT installer. However, also the same person who didn't even think we'd need to inspect the chimney after the fire 😬)

 

[bholler]

He owns the fireplace store, and is a Certified WETT installer. However, also the same person who didn't even think we'd need to inspect the chimney after the fire 😬)

I think I would be talking to a different installer. The fact that they aren't comfortable on that low pitch roof makes me question their ability

 

[Trevor Tahclep]

Look elsewhere for a competent certified tech / installer.

 

[begreen]

I love the idea of modifying the cap, but my husband said that if there if there ever was a fire, that insurance would never cover it if the cap was monkeyed with.

The only other probem I have is we didn't even think the installer was going to come back at all - and I don't think he'll go for coming back on multiple occasions.

Does that change the plan at all, lol?

One way or the other you'll need to figure out if the cap is the source of or contributing to the problem. If it is, then what?

 

[Muddy42]

There are a lot of cowboys out there that will cost you a fortune. Nothing beats getting 'a feel' for whats going on.

Personally I'd get up on the roof myself, take the cap off and have a look at it. Then leave the cap off and put a brush through to see if it snags on any damaged parts of the metal liner. You might even be able to shine a light from either end. If everything looks good, have a small fire on a still day and check for smoke leaks around the liner. Leave a window open for maximum draft.

 

[No More Smoke-Shows:(]

What kind of brush? And how do you check for leaks when it pulls the air in?

1. I have a different company coming out today (in three hours from now) to do an inspectioon with camera etc. Assuming no damage, I might ask him to pop the cap and I can burn a fire for the next couple days to see if that changes anything with no cap.

2. Then Thursday when the company who installed it comes out (still under a warranty), like begreen suggested, I'm thinking to start with a 2' extension, do a quick burn, if no good then add a 4' with the cap and cross our fingers!

Does this sound like a plan? Newby question: If he waited around for the quick burn, would he be able to attach a 4' section right afterwards, or would the pipe need to cool down significantly first?

Thanks again everyone!

 

[bholler]

What kind of brush? And how do you check for leaks when it pulls the air in?

1. I have a different company coming out today (in three hours from now) to do an inspectioon with camera etc. Assuming no damage, I might ask him to pop the cap and I can burn a fire for the next couple days to see if that changes anything with no cap.

2. Then Thursday when the company who installed it comes out (still under a warranty), like begreen suggested, I'm thinking to start with a 2' extension, do a quick burn, if no good then add a 4' with the cap and cross our fingers!

Does this sound like a plan? Newby question: If he waited around for the quick burn, would he be able to attach a 4' section right afterwards, or would the pipe need to cool down significantly first?

Thanks again everyone!

He isn't going to wait around for a full burn.

 

[Muddy42]

What kind of brush? And how do you check for leaks when it pulls the air in?

1. I have a different company coming out today (in three hours from now) to do an inspectioon with camera etc. Assuming no damage, I might ask him to pop the cap and I can burn a fire for the next couple days to see if that changes anything with no cap.

2. Then Thursday when the company who installed it comes out (still under a warranty), like begreen suggested, I'm thinking to start with a 2' extension, do a quick burn, if no good then add a 4' with the cap and cross our fingers!

Does this sound like a plan? Newby question: If he waited around for the quick burn, would he be able to attach a 4' section right afterwards, or would the pipe need to cool down significantly first?

Thanks again everyone!

In a short lined flue like that, you'd be fine with pretty much any type of chimney cleaning rods with a brush that is say an inch wider than the diameter of the liner.

Yes, maybe a short small fire first - lots of newspaper and a few sticks to create lots of smoke. A decent installer will have smoke flammable cartridges that create the same effect.

You need to work out if the excess smoke was caused by a blockage or lack of draught.