Possible to fix control box?

[ezFixMaybe]

I have a Quadro fire Castile Pellet Stove insert. The stove recently stopped working completely due to uncertain reasons. One possibility is that we do often have power outages because of wind where I live but the stove quit working a few days after these outages occurred. Maybe there is a component that's sensitive to these issues.

Currently the stove shows no signs of power when plugged in and called. Even when the thermostat is triggered no call light comes on, and no other additional LED's light up when changing the speed setting.
I checked and verified that the following work:

• Power is being supplied via the 120V AC cord. Checked with a volt meter.
• Snap discs 1, 2, and are in working order. Snap disc 3 doesn't need to be reset and it does have continuity across the contacts.
• The main fuse holder has given us some trouble with the mounting system being damaged. I have verified that there is continuity across the fuse so that shouldn't be the issue.
• Both fuses on the control board (green one and glass one) have been checked for continuity as well.
• The thermostat's functionality was verified with a continuity test.

I have consulted with a few repair guys and they don't have any additional diagnosing tips other than replacing the control box. Obviously this is an expensive fix (looking at about $200) and I do have a decent back ground in electronics, while being armed with a volt meter and soldering iron. I am just not 100% sure what could be causing the complete lack of power, maybe a relay? I'm open to and looking for suggestions on what components would be worth while testing.

Maybe its not worth trying to fix?

If anyone has a circuit schematic on the control board I'd be happy to take a look at it. I haven't come across one though so I am figuring its not available to the public.

I would love to be able spend just a few dollars on components and fix this!

 

[Ssyko]

Yes They can be repaired. Unless the middle layer traces are damaged from a spike. open the box and the component side near the card edge connections there is a board fuse its usually green and is silk screened “F1” check it for continuity.

 

[ezFixMaybe]

Yes They can be repaired. Unless the middle layer traces are damaged from a spike. open the box and the component side near the card edge connections there is a board fuse its usually green and is silk screened “F1” check it for continuity.

This fuse has continuity. Sorry I kind of buried that information.

Both fuses on the control board (green one and glass one) have been checked for continuity as well.

 

[Ssyko]

Ok take your board anb hold it in front of a good bright light and look for traces that seam to disappear or have blown apart.

will look like this

 

[SidecarFlip]

In retrospect, a good quality surge protector between the wall outlet and your stove would have saved you a lot of grief that you have coming and money too. All stoves with electronic controls require a surge protector and in reality, should be unplugged during the off season

 

[ezFixMaybe]

Well thank you all for your replies.

I was hoping that it was the control board as I was interested in seeing if I could in fact fix it. As it turns out I pulled out the unit completely from the fire place. I should have done this from the beginning, but I was resistant to it as really was sold on the control box or a damaged fuse receptacle being the issue. Anyways after pulling the unit it out I found some damaged wires that ran to snap disc #3. These wires carry mains voltage and power the whole system. These wires were burnt and the the bare wires were exposed as well. The insulation was also dry and brittle in affected areas. As I handled the wires one broke in half in my hand... that was the problem.

I ran to ACE and got some wire and shrink wrap. I cut out the bad section and soldered the wires all back together. I plugged in the unit with the old control box and it works! My only concern is that the wire that I have selected is not rated for operating in such harsh conditions especially when the stove used on higher settings. I know it gets hot back there and the wire is actually marine wire rated for 105 C. I'll probably take a peak at it soon to see if there is any noticeable degradation in the wire from the heat.

I am still not sure how the wire could have failed in such a manner. I checked to see if the wire was long enough to tough the exhaust motor cooling fan where it could rub through the insulation and then short. It simply cant reach though. It must get particularly hot where the wire failed leading it to eventually melt through the insulation and start shorting on the unit itself.

Thanks for the help. I enjoy this forum and much of the information and experience that is shared here!

I have attached some photos of the damaged wiring and the solution.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Most times, the point to point wiring they (builders) use leaves a lot to be desired anyway. The wire components with little regard for longevity and use the least expensive wire available.