Problems with pine pellets

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Former Farmer

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Apr 12, 2008
717
NE Wisconsin
Does anyone burn pine pellets in their stove?

I have burned 25 bags of Western Elite Ponderosa Pine pellets in my Castile insert and have noticed that the pellets do not want to slide down the hopper like they should. After letting the hopper go just about empty, I noticed that the fines were "stuck" to the hopper. I think that the fines are getting heated up enough in the hopper, that the pitch in the fines is then sticking to the hopper. I had to take a scraper to the mess and scrap quite vigorously to get the hopper clean.

Does this sound possible?
 
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Does anyone burn pine pellets in their stove?

I have burned 25 bags of Western Elite Ponderosa Pine pellets in my Castile insert and have noticed that the pellets do not want to slide down the hopper like they should. After letting the hopper go just about empty, I noticed that the fines were "stuck" to the hopper. I think that the fines are getting heated up enough in the hopper, that the pitch in the fines is then sticking to the hopper. I had to take a scraper to the mess and scrap quite vigorously to get the hopper clean.

Does this sound possible?

Sounds possible.....I burn a lot of pine pellets but keep the hopper full so I don't really know if there is a problem.
 
Our Ecoteck Elena prefers premium pine. Now using horse bedding pellets that have high blend of Aspen. Yes we have some issue with the pellets not slipping. Will try using some graphite and if that works will paint with a graphite base paint. The stuff sure works in the corn gravity box and on augers.
 
if that works will paint with a graphite base paint

In our gravity boxes, we had more luck with a light coat of graphite versus a heavy coat. The heavy coat had paint brush marks in it and seemed to cause the grains not to slide very well until the high spots were wore off and then it worked much better.
 
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In our gravity boxes, we had more luck with a light coat of graphite versus a heavy coat. The heavy coat had paint brush marks in it and seemed to cause the grains not to slide very well until the high spots were wore off and then it worked much better.
The coating was self priming and worked good to fill in the rust pits. If I do the Elena will get spray can. Its all of 5-6 square foot of area and pretty smooth being galvanized sheet metal.
 
I have used Rain X on my castile but had the best luck putting a good coat of meguires carnuba car wax on the inside since it coats the metal and is durable. I would use graphite but it could tend to offgass at higher temperatures and is known to be a cancer causing agent.

I have issues with any pellet leaving a residue. I use glass cleaner or spirits or whatever is needed to clean the residue and then treat with wax or armor all or whatever will leave a slick finish.
 
If it gets so hot to have graphite volatizing my house will probably be a smoking hole. Its used to make rocket nozzles, as a liner for the steel industry to line ladles and crucibles including the liners of nuclear power plants.:)
 
Does anyone burn pine pellets in their stove?

I have burned 25 bags of Western Elite Ponderosa Pine pellets in my Castile insert and have noticed that the pellets do not want to slide down the hopper like they should. After letting the hopper go just about empty, I noticed that the fines were "stuck" to the hopper. I think that the fines are getting heated up enough in the hopper, that the pitch in the fines is then sticking to the hopper. I had to take a scraper to the mess and scrap quite vigorously to get the hopper clean.

Does this sound possible?
I think the pitch should be removed by the time the pellets get to you. I don't see pitch coming out of KD pine board that I use around the house for my DIY projects. I have to think that the proper pellet making process would be more heat intensive than the lumber process. If there is some pine sap , enough to hang the pellets up in the hopper, it's time to get rid of those pellets and move on to another brand.
 
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the softwoods are a little stickier and end up getting stuck the the sides, but I don't think its pitch or sap. run your hand through the bag. does it come out sticky? I have never felt sappy after doing that.

I just keep a big spoon near by my stove and I manually move stuff around in the hopper inbetween fill ups
 
Does anyone know the temp the pellet bin "sees"? Never thought of waxing the inside sheet metal to aid the pellets in their trip to the auger...
 
When I fire up the Elena tonight I will shoot some temps.
 
In the upper portion of the hopper after a hour of operation I am getting temps to 120F. Lower part of the hopper still is full.
 
Only get soft out here,not good selection.Got a good fix for you.Had a neighbor(ex) with cheap stove,would run out of pellets but hopper 1/ 2 full.His fix-put a cam and lever on auger hooked to another arm with spring.Every revolution the arm would slam against the side of the hopper(could hear it outside)He gave stove away that spring,then moved away.
 
Moved on along with all the gopher,moles and dogs. They use shakers on train cars too. No way one can use one in a residential application. I can't stand to use a vibratory polisher in the house and shut it down at night when it's in the detached garage.
 
run your hand through the bag. does it come out sticky?

Yes, it does come out sticky. I can not blow off the fines from my hand, have to wipe them off.

Checked the temperature in the hopper and it is in the 115 to 120*F range. This is with the stove running on low.
 
My cheapie Englander stove had a painted hopper inside. It was not by any means
smooth or slick. I sanded it with 220, to bare metal (not much work at all)
then 400 paper, and did two coats of car wax.
The only sticking I get (with 100% softwood) is at that little lip at the front part of the hopper.
Maybe a handful of pellets..


Dan
 
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