Problems With the Oslo Pipe

[Simonkenton]

My pipe started leaking water when it rains. Leaks off of the ceiling pass through kit.
Pipe goes straight up through the ceiling, then straight up above the roof. Metal roof.
Installer came out two weeks ago, got up on the roof, couldn't see anything wrong. Re caulked it anyway.
This guy is very highly recommended and is the best in the Asheville NC area.

Rained again today, the thing is still leaking.
I just talked to Travis on the phone, he is going to come out Monday and look at it again.
We were talking about removing the pipe from the ceiling pass through, and running the pipe through the gable end wall, past the roof overhang, and then up.
Doing that we would not be going through the roof.

However this would entail a horizontal run of 6 feet. Travis said, he could run the pipe on a 30 degree uphill pitch and it would still draw well.
Right now total pipe height is 25 feet.

Would this stove draw well with a six foot "horizontal" run on a 30 degree pitch?

 

[electrathon]

I would not do it. Straight up is the best choice. Fix what is wrong with what you have instead of cobbling together a bad patch repair.

 

[webby3650]

He actually recommended that? Hmm...
What type of flashing do you have? What pitch? Got a picture?

 

[Simonkenton]

The roof is a 12:12 pitch

Around the pipe there is a rubber "boot" 1/4 inch thick, about 2 foot by 2 foot, it lays on the metal and configures to the contours of the metal roof, there is a little ridge every 9 inches that the boot contours to. Around here this rubber boot is the state of the art for running a stove pipe through the metal roof.

This metal "funnel" that you see is just to keep the sunshine off of the rubber boot.

 

[electrathon]

What color is the boot? A heat pipe should have a silicone boot, a vent pipe uses rubber. If it is black it is likely rubber, red is silicone. That said, there are other places it can leak through other than an incorrect boot. Whatever you do don't even talk about going out the wall. Chimneys are vented through roofs every day and if installed properly they do not leak.

 

[bholler]

The roof is a 12:12 pitch


View attachment 220439

Around the pipe there is a rubber "boot" 1/4 inch thick, about 2 foot by 2 foot, it lays on the metal and configures to the contours of the metal roof, there is a little ridge every 9 inches that the boot contours to. Around here this rubber boot is the state of the art for running a stove pipe through the metal roof.

This metal "funnel" that you see is just to keep the sunshine off of the rubber boot.

That is why i refuse to use the rubber boots. They rely on adhesive to keep water out. I will take metal flashing cut in over the rubber any day. Infact i have replaced rubber boots done by others with metal several times because they couldnt keep it from leaking.

 

[xman23]

I wouldn't change anything. You have a perfect looking installation. It's just a leak that can be found. If the collar was put under they shingles correctly it won't leek on your high pitch. How old was the roof when the did the install? You have to bend and lift a few shingles. They get very brittle. Was it ok for a long time after the install?

I looked a year for a leak. Tore it all apart. Took the chimney stack out. Took the roof collar out. And put it all together. Still leaked. It was a hair line crack in a shingle, just in back and above the chimney. The roof changes pitch there and there is a little void under the shingle. My ladder leg must cracked it when I was up there doing a top down cleaning.

One other issue. Many brands of chimneys, the vertical seam on the chimney sections are not water proof. Mine leaked water into the pipes when I had them laying on my deck. Some say they silicon the seams. I didn't and haven't had an issue with them vertical.

Edit, I see bholler comment. Sounds like the rubber collar's are a problem.

 

[bholler]

I wouldn't change anything. You have a perfect looking installation. It's just a leak that can be found. If the collar was put under they shingles correctly it won't leek on your high pitch. How old was the roof when the did the install? You have to bend and lift a few shingles. They get very brittle. Was it ok for a long time after the install?

I looked a year for a leak. Tore it all apart. Took the chimney stack out. Took the roof collar out. And put it all together. Still leaked. It was a hair line crack in a shingle, just in back and above the chimney. The roof changes pitch there and there is a little void under the shingle. My ladder leg must cracked it when I was up there doing a top down cleaning.

One other issue. Many brands of chimneys, the vertical seam on the chimney sections are not water proof. Mine leaked water into the pipes when I had them laying on my deck. Some say they silicon the seams. I didn't and haven't had an issue with them vertical.

Edit, I see bholler comment. Sounds like the rubber collar's are a problem.

His roof is metal not shingle.

 

[Simonkenton]

I have not seen the boot but the guy described it as rubber.
The roof is 2 years old and the stove was installed just under 2 years ago.

The roof is composed of two sections, of 12 foot metal. They overlap about 2 feet so that the overall roof is 22 feet.
The pipe goes through the roof right through the intersection of the two metal sheets.

bholler you have stated the reason I dislike this rubber boot install. It relies on the adhesive to keep water out.

What kind of install do you use on a metal roof?

 

[bholler]

I have not seen the boot but the guy described it as rubber.
The roof is 2 years old and the stove was installed just under 2 years ago.

The roof is composed of two sections, of 12 foot metal. They overlap about 2 feet so that the overall roof is 22 feet.
The pipe goes through the roof right through the intersection of the two metal sheets.

Well if it is at the intersection then using metal flashing would be really easy

 

[sutphenj]

I've got 3ft of horizontal to the outside then straight up and around the soffit and past the roof line. She drafts like a race horse. Zero draft problems. Lots of folks frown on horizontal runs and I could of went through my metal roof by running striaght up on the inside but opted not to penetrate the roof

 

[webby3650]

We have had a few metal roofs leak through our new flashing. The first one took some time to find. After redoing it all with the same leak reoccurring, we found the lap in the metal to be weeping water in. We lifted the lap, put a continuous bead of silicone down the entire length of it and viola! The lap often weeps water into it, it just runs out the soffit, or a flashing... once the hole is cut.
Now we caulk this lap all the way to the ridge on all installs if the laps falls within the flashing.
Of course the manufacturer says it’s not possible, we’ve had it happen 3 times that I can think of, this fixed it on all occasions.

 

[Simonkenton]

I just took this pic of the install. You can see the square shaped rubber boot, maybe 2 feet by 2 feet, it is black with a silver edge.
You can see it sticking out on the right side and the bottom.
This boot goes right over the overlap joint at the bottom. It comes down about 4 inches below the joint.

So, webby are you saying to undo a few screws and lift up that edge and caulk that overlap joint?
The overlap of the metal is about 22 inches.
I don't understand what you mean by caulking it all the way to the ridge.

Wait a minute I am talking about the overlap where the bottom sheet of metal ovelaps the top sheet. Total roof is 22 feet and I used two, 12 foot sheets of steel, so there is about a 2 foot overlap.

Are you talking about the overlap where a sheet on the left overlaps the sheet on the right side? That joint runs all the way to the ridge. Is that what you mean?

 

[bholler]

View attachment 220484

I just took this pic of the install. You can see the square shaped rubber boot, maybe 2 feet by 2 feet, it is black with a silver edge.
You can see it sticking out on the right side and the bottom.
This boot goes right over the overlap joint at the bottom. It comes down about 4 inches below the joint.

So, webby are you saying to undo a few screws and lift up that edge and caulk that overlap joint?
The overlap of the metal is about 22 inches.
I don't understand what you mean by caulking it all the way to the ridge.

Wait a minute I am talking about the overlap where the bottom sheet of metal ovelaps the top sheet. Total roof is 22 feet and I used two, 12 foot sheets of steel, so there is about a 2 foot overlap.

Are you talking about the overlap where a sheet on the left overlaps the sheet on the right side? That joint runs all the way to the ridge. Is that what you mean?

He is talking about the edge overlap. If you want to fix it for good take that boot off and replace it with metal flashing. With your overlapping peices where they are installing metal flashing would be very fast and easy with no reliance at all on caulking. It is the right long term solution. Anytime you are relying on caulk for roof flashing it is going to be a maintenance issue.

 

[Simonkenton]

bholler how would you use metal flashing for this install?
I sent you a message.

 

[bholler]

bholler how would you use metal flashing for this install?
I sent you a message.

Cut out the top sheet of roofing a little larger than the cone on the metal flashing and then slide the flashing up under that sheet leaving it over the bottom sheet. I bend the outer edges down so they meet the roof. And use the foam filler they use on ridge caps under the bottom edge just to keep bugs out. It will require pulling off the top of the chimney to install it but it will not leak. Doing it that way relys on gravity not caulk to keep the water out

 

[webby3650]

View attachment 220484

I just took this pic of the install. You can see the square shaped rubber boot, maybe 2 feet by 2 feet, it is black with a silver edge.
You can see it sticking out on the right side and the bottom.
This boot goes right over the overlap joint at the bottom. It comes down about 4 inches below the joint.

So, webby are you saying to undo a few screws and lift up that edge and caulk that overlap joint?
The overlap of the metal is about 22 inches.
I don't understand what you mean by caulking it all the way to the ridge.

Wait a minute I am talking about the overlap where the bottom sheet of metal ovelaps the top sheet. Total roof is 22 feet and I used two, 12 foot sheets of steel, so there is about a 2 foot overlap.

Are you talking about the overlap where a sheet on the left overlaps the sheet on the right side? That joint runs all the way to the ridge. Is that what you mean?

Yes, the edge overlap. If an overlapping rib ends above your flashing I’d bet that’s the culprit.
We don’t install rubber boot flashings either, we do take them out and replace them with excel metal roof flashings.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Begreen has mentioned the metal roof flashing by excel many times in other threads. Contact him or look on icc chimney website

 

[bholler]

Begreen has mentioned the metal roof flashing by excel many times in other threads. Contact him or look on icc chimney website

In this case because of the location of the overlap any standard flashing will work fine

 

[webby3650]

Begreen has mentioned the metal roof flashing by excel many times in other threads. Contact him or look on icc chimney website

Yes, Begreen prefers using the excel flashings.