Proper cement for rebuilding cast iron stove

[amblerman]

Hi folks,
First post here.
I have burned for years a Jotul 550 insert.

I just picked up a Jotul 602 C (UL listed) that needs a new back plate. I already took it apart and aside from two snapped bolts, the disassembly was easy.
This 602 will be going out into a workshop.

However, I've never rebuilt a stove before. I've read several posts here that describe the over all process. So long as all the panels and plates fit properly, it doesn't seem bad at all.

My question revolves around the cement used between all the cast iron plates. A lot of posts here mention it generically as stove cement, etc. I could not find recommendations on brands or types.
I know I don't want the stove gasket cement. That is specific to attaching gaskets.

I believe I want "furnace cement" that is labeled appropriate to "seals metal to metal" (ie not gaskets to metal) and can withstand heat up to 2000F.
I can find plenty of brands pre-mixed in caulking tubes. Anyone have preferences on brands (or ones to avoid?)

Does it always come premixed? Or can you get it in powder form and is there any reason NOT to get it in caulking tubes? Pre-mixed in caulking tubes seems like the way to go to me but I wanted to double check.

And.... from everything I read, the whole process is:
1) clean all current seams
2) dry fit everything to make sure it all fits nicely.
3) apply more cement than needed. Assemble and wipe down the bits that ooze out. Let dry.
4) season stove accordingly.

Right?


Thanks

-A

 

[sticks]

Get it in the caulking tubes. Rutland brand is the best that is easy to find. If you can find the stuff labeled SBI that’s really good. I don’t know who makes it for them. Hearthstone has some nice stuff too. Your process you listed out sounds about right

 

[begreen]

The 602 is an easy rebuild. Rutland is fine for this purpose. A ratchet strap is handy for holding the sides in place when putting it back together.

It is pretty common for the back to get damaged from overfiring. I added a custom cut, rear burn plate to ours.

 

[Woody Stover]

I haven't done any re-building, just patching of seams, but the Woodstock stuff I used seemed really stringy and tacky. I don't know if it's optimized for use on soapstone, but it has soapstone powder in it, I believe. You can shoot them an email or call, and see what they think about using it on cast iron..

 

[amblerman]

The 602 is an easy rebuild. Rutland is fine for this purpose. A ratchet strap is handy for holding the sides in place when putting it back together.

It is pretty common for the back to get damaged from overfiring. I added a custom cut, rear burn plate to ours.

Thanks for the reply. I think I did see your post about a custom cut burn plate.
If I understand what you did, you traced out a template of the exposed part of the back plate once the side plates and top baffle were in place.

Then you had that created out of some steel plate (how thick??) and then attached with bolts to rear plate.
Correct?

Instead of steel, I was thinking about creating a custom refractory brick out of some of that ready to mix castable refractory cement?
for example: https://www.rutland.com/product/castable-refractory-cement/?v=7516fd43adaa

According to this you can make "custom fire brick shapes" and does NOT require heat to cure.
I was wondering if something like this could be used to make a custom firebrick for the back.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the reply. I think I did see your post about a custom cut burn plate.
If I understand what you did, you traced out a template of the exposed part of the back plate once the side plates and top baffle were in place.

Then you had that created out of some steel plate (how thick??) and then attached with bolts to rear plate.
Correct?

Instead of steel, I was thinking about creating a custom refractory brick out of some of that ready to mix castable refractory cement?
for example: https://www.rutland.com/product/castable-refractory-cement/?v=7516fd43adaa

According to this you can make "custom fire brick shapes" and does NOT require heat to cure.
I was wondering if something like this could be used to make a custom firebrick for the back.

That is correct. We used the available stock for the rear plate. It was a little thicker than 1/8". Refractory brick might work but it will cut down on log length and it will be more vulnerable to logs banging against it.

 

[peakbagger]

IMHO, the rear burn plate gets most of its damage from folks slamming the wood into the firebox. I have seen folks pounding on the end of slightly long log to get it to fit.