Proper Way To Sweep Chimney

[woodburn]

I just bought my own chimney sweep and rods from Lowes for $25. It is a steel wire brush. I will be sweeping my 6" metalbestos class A chimney with it. I can go on the roof and do it from the top, but I have never done this before. Is there a certain way it should be done? Do you just stick it in and go straight up and down a few times? Are you supposed to spin it at all? Is there such a thing as over-scraping? I don't want to cause any damage. Also, one of the sections is a telescoping section. When the brush goes down and hits the inner part of that section, can it hurt it? I know I may sound a bit paranoid here, but like I said, I just don't want to screw anything up!

Also, is the metal brush the best choice for a Stainless Steel liner?

Thanks

 

[sullystull]

The company that installed my SS liner advised me against using a metal brush. I was just a Lowe's today and noticed that they only sell the metal ones. Therefore, I guess I would like to know the answer to your question as well.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

I watch with interest, and I can say I had advice, but can't find it, not to use a steel wire brush for a stainless steel liner. I don't even know what metalbestos is.

 

[RedRanger]

Bought my brush from a PE dealer and he sold me the stiff nylon. Metal brush will over time damage the stainless steel liner. And the nylon one worked just fine.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

I found the recommendation I have, it is to use a "poly" brush, e.g., nylon as mentioned by sonnyinbc.

 

[ncmallard78]

do you disconect the pipe at the bottom where it meets the stove? or, do you let the creosete collect at the bottom and burn off the next time you light a fire?

 

[mikeathens]

Don't use the metal. Take it back and get a poly brush. You can pick one up at your local DIY hardware store, or order one online. The stainless will scratch your pipe, creating more roughness for the creosote to attach to, and possibly start the pipe corroding. I believe stainless brush is for masonry only.

Here's my method: Disconnect connector pipe at the flue collar and place a bag/sack whatever around the bottom of the pipe and tie off with string/tape/whatever.

Get up on roof and take off cap - start with one section of rod, push brush down in and start scrubbing. I usually do one section at a time, scrubbing up and down. Put on next section of rod, repeat...until you are down to the stove (careful not to punch through bag or stove refractory hh:

Let the dust settle, inspect chimney for missed sections and repeat as necessary - you'll have just a dirty layer in the chimney, no flakey stuff.

Then, you can go back down and take off your bag full of creosote.

 

[grizzly2]

I use basically the same method as Mike except I punch a smll hole in the bag to be tied to the bottom of the chimney pipe, stuff the poly prush into the pipe, tie on the bag, slip the rod through the hole and into the brush. Run the brush up and down the pipe vigorously. You realy don't have to wory about bumping the section of slip pipe.

 

[Hogwildz]

I have no clue why misinformed folks say no metal.
I use a metal brush and have no problems. Cleans better than a poly, and says RIGHT ON THE BOX, 'FOR USE ON S.S. OR CLAY LINERS.
Use which ever is your fancy, but there is nothing wrong with using a metal brush, especially when it says ok for s.s. liner right on the box.
Nuff Said.

Edit:
If you can remove the baffle, you don't need a bag, you merely remove baffle, close door & air intake, brush down the mess, and scoop or shop vac it out, done.
Everyone has their way of doing things. Research what will work best for you. But IMO, some folks get a tad zealous pushing something based on information that is hearsay, or just opinion.
The photo says it all. Next cleaning, I'll take an interior pipe photo, so you nay sayers can be better informed
Another plus of metal brush: mid winter, top end may have some build up (after you learn your stove & burn dry wood, this should not be a problem), you have to shut down & let go cold for poly brush, not metal
My first year, I had wet wood & good amount of build up on top foot or so, brushed with steel brush, what fell down burned, and the pipe was cleaned & no melted poly to boot.

 

[mikeathens]

I have no clue why misinformed folks say no metal.
I use a metal brush and have no problems. Cleans better than a poly, and says RIGHT ON THE BOX, 'FOR USE ON S.S. OR CLAY LINERS.
Use which ever is your fancy, but there is nothing wrong with using a metal brush, especially when it says ok for s.s. liner right on the box.
Nuff Said.

Edit:
If you can remove the baffle, you don't need a bag, you merely remove baffle, close door & air intake, brush down the mess, and scoop or shop vac it out, done.
Everyone has their way of doing things. Research what will work best for you. But IMO, some folks get a tad zealous pushing something based on information that is hearsay, or just opinion.
The photo says it all. Next cleaning, I'll take an interior pipe photo, so you nay sayers can be better informed
Another plus of metal brush: mid winter, top end may have some build up (after you learn your stove & burn dry wood, this should not be a problem), you have to shut down & let go cold for poly brush, not metal
My first year, I had wet wood & good amount of build up on top foot or so, brushed with steel brush, what fell down burned, and the pipe was cleaned & no melted poly to boot.

Yo, Hog...

I got it straight from the horse's mouth. SELKIRK DOES NOT RECOMMEND USING METAL BRUSHES. I wonder if you dump "engine cleaner" (diesel fuel) into your crankcase between oil changes? The package says it's safe for all engines!

Edit: I use poly brush, so that's TWO false claims on that package!

 

[Hogwildz]

I have no clue why misinformed folks say no metal.
I use a metal brush and have no problems. Cleans better than a poly, and says RIGHT ON THE BOX, 'FOR USE ON S.S. OR CLAY LINERS.
Use which ever is your fancy, but there is nothing wrong with using a metal brush, especially when it says ok for s.s. liner right on the box.
Nuff Said.

Edit:
If you can remove the baffle, you don't need a bag, you merely remove baffle, close door & air intake, brush down the mess, and scoop or shop vac it out, done.
Everyone has their way of doing things. Research what will work best for you. But IMO, some folks get a tad zealous pushing something based on information that is hearsay, or just opinion.
The photo says it all. Next cleaning, I'll take an interior pipe photo, so you nay sayers can be better informed
Another plus of metal brush: mid winter, top end may have some build up (after you learn your stove & burn dry wood, this should not be a problem), you have to shut down & let go cold for poly brush, not metal
My first year, I had wet wood & good amount of build up on top foot or so, brushed with steel brush, what fell down burned, and the pipe was cleaned & no melted poly to boot.

Yo, Hog...

I got it straight from the horse's mouth. SELKIRK DOES NOT RECOMMEND USING METAL BRUSHES. I wonder if you dump "engine cleaner" (diesel fuel) into your engine compartment between oil changes? The package says it's safe for all engines!

Edit: I use poly brush, so that's TWO false claims on that package!

No problemo, I have a call into Duravant (Simpson) regarding the brushes. Happens to be the liner of my choice & install.
I'll keep yall posted on their input for their particular system. I'll still take a pic when I get the sucker cleaned this year.

As far as engines, I do regular oil changes on mine, no need to dump cleaner in
If regular oil changes don't work, the shop can flush the engine out, and if any problems ensue due to that, they eat it with their liability insurance.

 

[mikeathens]

I have no doubt that the metal brush works, and probably better than poly. In fact, you might never see any ill effects. But this is just one case where I'll stick to "manufacturer recommendations".

 

[begreen]

If the stainless flue is rigid, heavy gauge, then a metal brush is likely ok. But if it's a thin stainless flex liner, I would use a poly brush.

 

[Hogwildz]

Just got off the phone with Dale at Simpson Duravent. Excellent guy, very nice & helpful.
He advised for Duravent system, either poly or steel brush is ok. Didn't push one over the other.
He said they must test to UL1777 test, and must take brush up & down liner 100x. I did not get deep into it and ask further.
This is the same guy that helped me plan the liner parts I was to use. Very awesome and helpful.
So , it depends on the sweeper/homeowner preference, and also the liner manufacturer.
I will say I only have 5' of flex at the bottom, with double wall insulated rigid from first flue tile up to top.
Although I don't have much problem when I get to the flex, I could see the poly making for an easier cleaning process for some with full flex liners.
For me personally, I want to clean as much with as little effort as possible. The steel brush does this for me.
Everyone has to figure whats best for the system they have and their cleaning technique.
Now 10-3' sections of fiberglass rods is a real PITA when up on a ladder on the roof leaning against the chimney.
Might try the rope trick next year.

 

[burntime]

I read somewhere (could be wrong) that stainless will still rust, just much slower! A metal brush leaves behind small particles of metal that will spead the process in a stainless liner. That info and 50 cents will get you a cup of coffee.

 

[Hogwildz]

I read somewhere (could be wrong) that stainless will still rust, just much slower! A metal brush leaves behind small particles of metal that will spead the process in a stainless liner. That info and 50 cents will get you a cup of coffee.

I don't drink coffee, but I do drink brews at the strip club down the road. Of course, that would take much more info & much more than 50 cents

 

[burntime]

But will get you a heck of a lot more pumped up and awake then a stinkin cup of coffee

 

[Hogwildz]

But will get you a heck of a lot more pumped up and awake then a stinkin cup of coffee

You betcha!!
Just can't afford it everyday like a coffee.
Matter of fact, its been a while. I am about due