Protect or Fix that Flimsy Fire Brick Lining in your Wood Pellet Stove!!

[Don2222]

Hello

Wish I knew of this before it broke, but yes we know how delicate that firebrick is and the weak part over the flame cutout!!

Oh Well, At least I can salvage it by using an inexpensive 12"x18" piece of # 22 guage sheet metal from Home Depot for $7.98!!
(broken link removed to http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202183493/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)

Just put it under the firebrick and trace it oout with a felt tip marker.

then either using metal cutting sheers or a nice jig saw with fine metal cutting blade and cut out the pattern. It is fine if it is a little less than the size of the firebrick and then it will not bee seen.

Then use High Temp RTV on the back of the brick, on the top of the sheet metal and on both sides of any break or tear in the firebrick.

Squeeze everything together and let dry. You can also get some bolts and washers to secure the corners if you want that nice mechanical connection, but note on the Pelpro any corner screws will not hit the back plane of the stove but check on your stove to make sure it does fit correctly. put something heavy on it to dry!

Good luck

See pics below
Click to enlarge

 

[krooser]

I scrapped mine years ago...

 

[Brewer]

Hey don,
Oddly enough, I did basically the same thing today on a ussc 6041.
I tried the high temp silicone a few weeks ago, didn't last.
Today I went with stove cement.........we'll see what happens.
Good luck!
Also bought some refractory cement mix to mold a couple new ones.......about 27-28 bucks at menards for a little tub of it....should make about 3, i'm guessing

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

True gasket cement should work also as a glue. You have to be careful of temp ratings that close to the fire.

 

[Brewer]

True gasket cement should work also as a glue. You have to be careful of temp ratings that close to the fire.

Smokey,
As always you are correct.
I used " melco's red devil gasketing cement and stove sealer" ......withstands temps to 2000 degrees f.
Also, the little tub of refractory cement wasn't so little, 25 lbs., so maybe i'll get a few more molds out of it..lol
Anyway, we'll see how the fix holds up upon next cleaning.
Nice pics, don.

 

[xraycer]

Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.

 

[Don2222]

Hey don,
Oddly enough, I did basically the same thing today on a ussc 6041.
I tried the high temp silicone a few weeks ago, didn't last.
Today I went with stove cement.........we'll see what happens.
Good luck!
Also bought some refractory cement mix to mold a couple new ones.......about 27-28 bucks at menards for a little tub of it....should make about 3, i'm guessing

Thanks Brewer

Guess I will be looking for some nuts and bolts then for that good physical connection!

Do you have some pics?? Like to see what you are doing too!!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.

Depends upon the stove.

 

[stellep]

Oh man, you broke it. Bummer. I've come close many a time. Hope the repair works out. I'll probably need it one day.
BTW: From what I've read, in my stove it must be in place.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

True gasket cement should work also as a glue. You have to be careful of temp ratings that close to the fire.

Smokey,
As always you are correct.
I used " melco's red devil gasketing cement and stove sealer" ......withstands temps to 2000 degrees f.
Also, the little tub of refractory cement wasn't so little, 25 lbs., so maybe i'll get a few more molds out of it..lol
Anyway, we'll see how the fix holds up upon next cleaning.
Nice pics, don.

25 lbs of nice and nasty retort and furnace repair gunk, that stuff can cause trouble on your skin be certain to read the cautions and warnings.

Snowy says it does a good patch job provided you build things up a bit at a time.

 

[Don2222]

Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.

Hello xraycer

In the diagram for the Pelpro Bay View air circulates behind the fireBrick. I am using the stove with the firebrick out while I am repairing the firebrick. So the stove works fine, it may make some difference so I will check when I put it back in.

See diagram below and click to enlarge.

 

[Don2222]

Oh man, you broke it. Bummer. I've come close many a time. Hope the repair works out. I'll probably need it one day.
BTW: From what I've read, in my stove it must be in place.

Yes stellep, I had it out so it would not get dirty and then something fell into it and snap!! :-( I was upset, but I will get some nuts and bolts and bolt it to the new metal back plane. So with it glued and bolted it should be fine. Maybe you should do it to before it is too late??

So I am learning and this should work well. Thanks

 

[PA_Clinker]

Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.

In that diagram (post #10), it looks to me as though the firebrick & resulting air space provides insulation to minimize the chance of a hopper fire.

 

[Don2222]

Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.

In that diagram (post #10), it looks to me as though the firebrick & resulting air space provides insulation to minimize the chance of a hopper fire.

There is a metal panel bolted to the back of the stove's fire box behind the firebrick. Behind the metal panel is the ash traps to clean out the air passages!

 

[PA_Clinker]

Yeah, but I think the bare metal will tend to absorb heat whereas the refractory panel will tend to reflect the heat back into the firebox.

 

[Brewer]

In my 6039 and 6041 , which are basically identical, I believe the firebrick/board is to prevent the rear panel of the firebox from overheating/distortion.
Just my .02

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Well I went to the hardware store and picked up 1/4 " full thread 1" long carriage bolts with flat washers, lock washers and nuts.

So this firebrick bolted and RTVed to the # 22 Guage Steel backplane will not be falling apart very soon!!

See pics below!

 

[Brewer]

well don.......the gasket cement worked great...............til i had to take the brick out, then not so much.....
so i bolted mine together also, lol.....only i had to use alot smaller size bolt/screw....clearance issue
attached are the pics you requested.........
i know, i know.............no pics, never happened

 

[Don2222]

well don.......the gasket cement worked great...............til i had to take the brick out, then not so much.....
so i bolted mine together also, lol.....only i had to use alot smaller size bolt/screw....clearance issue
attached are the pics you requested.........
i know, i know.............no pics, never happened

Oh, Very good. Nice pics.

Yes, It just seems the bolts are really needed for that hard physical connection.

You should be all set now.

 

[zrtmatos]

Thanks guys, this should solve my problem. I will post my before and after pics to share the knowledge.

 

[Don2222]

Thanks guys, this should solve my problem. I will post my before and after pics to share the knowledge.

You are welcome but since it is so fragil, I recommend just putting it in during the summer and non use times. If the metal gets too hot it can warp things so be careful!

 

[zrtmatos]

I don't understand what you mean when you say putting it in the summer and non-use times?

 

[Don2222]

I don't understand what you mean when you say putting it in the summer and non-use times?

Because it is so fragile and will get dirty and cannot be cleaned very well, some members here remove it when burning and then put it back for the summer. It stays looking good that way.

 

[zrtmatos]

Ok, I understand now but, doesn't that defeat the purpose of the reason why the firebrick is there? I would think it has to be in place to keep the stove components insulated from the high temperatures in the firebox. I am planning on placing a layer of 22 gauge steel behind it after affixing it to the firebrick and repairing the cracked pieces with the furnace cement. If that fails I will break down and purchase the replacement from Lopi.

 

[Don2222]

Ok, I understand now but, doesn't that defeat the purpose of the reason why the firebrick is there? I would think it has to be in place to keep the stove components insulated from the high temperatures in the firebox. I am planning on placing a layer of 22 gauge steel behind it after affixing it to the firebrick and repairing the cracked pieces with the furnace cement. If that fails I will break down and purchase the replacement from Lopi.

The firebox does not need the insulation, it is there for looks. The ones that work best with a fire are the cast iron fire brick in the Lopi Pioneer bay or Avalon Astoria