Protecting Firebrick (Refractory Fiberboards)

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Crisputer

Crisputer

Member
Nov 25, 2017
8
TN
Hello, I have an Englander 17-VL which has fiberboards instead of firebrick. I just ordered a complete set and I'm thinking about adding a layer of stainless steel or expanded metal to the face each of these protect them. Anyone done this before or have any reason not to do that? Thanks
[Hearth.com] Protecting Firebrick (Refractory Fiberboards)
 
Last edited:
It won't last. The thin sheet or expanded metal will fail in that intensely hot environment. The tubes that support this weight are not designed to support a thick plate either.

Heck, if it's not too expensive, give it a try. I would prefer a thin sheet like maybe 1/8". Look for it to sag, buckle, and corrode due to heat and corrosivety of the environment.
 
Highbeam said:
It won't last. The thin sheet or expanded metal will fail in that intensely hot environment. The tubes that support this weight are not designed to support a thick plate either.

Heck, if it's not too expensive, give it a try. I would prefer a thin sheet like maybe 1/8". Look for it to sag, buckle, and corrode due to heat and corrosivety of the environment.
Click to expand...

I'm just wanting to protect the back and sides if possible from impacts. I don't have a problem above the tubes.
 
Crisputer said:
I'm just wanting to protect the back and sides if possible from impacts. I don't have a problem above the tubes.
Click to expand...
It shouldn't hurt to try but it will probably buckle unless captive. How will you hold it in place? Can you make a 90º bend on the ends?
 
Yes sir I can! :) I was going to screw them to the channel that runs along top at the tubes. They don't have to cover the sides 100%; just cover the main parts where wood will hit. This should prevent gouging it at least. I've only burned two seasons and these boards are trash. The only thing I don't like about this stove is the cost to replace the fiberboards. Above the tubes I'm fine which is what I hear to be the problem for most people.
 
Boy if these bricks are that fragile I'd probably just buy a box of the bricks that the local hardware/farm store/big box carries and then get a cheapy diamond blade to cut them to fit with an angle grinder...would hold up better than what it sounds like the OEM does.
Highbeam said:
Look for it to sag, buckle, and corrode due to heat and corrosivety of the environment.
Click to expand...
Shouldn't corrode, unless its some really cheap grade of SS maybe...it very well may warp/buckle though.
Lamppa uses lots of SS in their fireboxes...works great...its not lining the firebrick though...however, it does cover the back wall, and even with many studs holding it in place, it still tends to warp some...very intense heat back there though!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Crisputer and Highbeam
Yes, PE uses stainless in their fireboxes too for the brick rails and baffle. I don't know the gauge but would guess around 18-20ga? The key is that these pieces have a 90º bend in them except for the baffle lid which on our stove is a flat plate. Has not warped in 11+ seasons of use.

This is an old thread. I am going to move Paul Baker's question to a new thread for more specific advice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

webfish
  • Locked
General GLOSSARY OF COMMON HEARTH AND HEATING TERMS
Replies
0
Views
8K
Articles
webfish
webfish
Top Bottom