Pulled the trigger on the Austral

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Chuck the Canuck

Feeling the Heat
Now for my first question. I read in the manual that you should not load wood higher than the height of the firebrick, but that would seem to cut down pretty significantly on the amount of wood a fella could put in the box. Does anybody really follow such a directive, or is there some flexibility on this?

Cheers
 
I go above the firebrick in the middle, no problem.. its fits a lot of wood
 
I find I get a cleaner burn (less coaling) if I confine myself to that line. I loaded the stove up to the brim at first and then switched to the fire brick line (+ a little, rounded up in the middle) and still got 5-6 hrs. of usable heat (stove top 350F+) and more than enough coals after 10-12 hrs. to reload and repeat. Burning dry maple only. The manual also says to burn with air fully closed,......mine won't. Flexibility in all things.
 
I own the same stove. I added an extra row of firebrick laid horizontally atop the firebrick on the sides. Its been that way for two and a half years so far with no problems. I did originally operate the stove as received without the extra firebrick, but found that the stove operates with secondary burn better having the extra brick (ymmv).
 
Thanks all! I guess I'll take it slow and get to know my new baby.... exciting! :)

Ethan; I'll definitely keep the idea of extra bricks in the back of my mind....
 
I own the same stove. I added an extra row of firebrick laid horizontally atop the firebrick on the sides. Its been that way for two and a half years so far with no problems. I did originally operate the stove as received without the extra firebrick, but found that the stove operates with secondary burn better having the extra brick (ymmv).

These extra bricks laid horizontally, are they just resting there on top of the existing tilted out vertical brick? Did you just do the sides or you were able to somehow get a line across the back as well? Curious minds want to know.... :)
 
These extra bricks laid horizontally, are they just resting there on top of the existing tilted out vertical brick? Did you just do the sides or you were able to somehow get a line across the back as well? Curious minds want to know.... :)
X2

more detail please, it radiates a ton of heat out the sides so how does this affect heat output and burn times?
 
I had the Baltic for a short time and also tried this. The bricks I had were 4.5 wideX7longX1.25 thick. Only 2 bricks will lay on their side on the top. You would have cut the back side bricks because of the damper travel. Honestly, I didn't think it made to much difference. My objective at the time was to radiate less heat to outside and keep mre heat in the firebox. Hope this helps. You could also cut some short bricks to fit in the back.
 
I had the Baltic for a short time and also tried this. The bricks I had were 4.5 wideX7longX1.25 thick. Only 2 bricks will lay on their side on the top. You would have cut the back side bricks because of the damper travel. Honestly, I didn't think it made to much difference. My objective at the time was to radiate less heat to outside and keep mre heat in the firebox. Hope this helps. You could also cut some short bricks to fit in the back.

Genuine question: what would be the reason you wanted to radiate less heat outside and keep more heat inside the firebox?
 
Short answer. The stove was too big for the space and overheated the basement. I was trying to keep internal temp up higher. They like to run hot. Wish it could have worked out. Do a search on my posts.
 
Short answer. The stove was too big for the space and overheated the basement. I was trying to keep internal temp up higher. They like to run hot. Wish it could have worked out. Do a search on my posts.

Yep, I re-read your thread on switching out the Baltic with the 1800. I remember the discussion now and see why you wanted to keep the "heat in the box"....

Cheers
 
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