Quad Castile Problems

[stoaf88]

So I bought a used Quad castile in not working condition. I got it real cheap so I didn't care that it wasn't running.

It is a 2001 (black control box).

Its in really good shape, and very clean. I was told by the owner that it never dropped pellets and made fire. He said he got it as payment for a job he did and never used it. He never tried to fix it, said he had no clue about the stove and just left it in his dining room as a decoration.

So I get the stove in my garage, hook up the Tstat and plug it in. The combustion blower does not come on. There is a red light on on the side of the control box. There are also 2 lights above the control box, one red and one blue. Both are blinking very dim, not really lit up, a very dim blinking.

I checked the voltage at the combustion blower and it is running at 115-117 volts.

I turned the blower by hand but it does not run when hooked up.

Tomorrow when I have time I will plug the motor in with a lamp cord to see if it works but I am thinking that the motor is bad.

I also think I reset the 2 snap disks with the red buttons, but its tough to tell, the buttons dont really click or anything.

Any thoughts from anyone?

Also where is the cheapest place to get a combustion blower for a quad castile?

 

[mralias]

Ebay has them for $185. That's if the one you have is NG.

 

[stoaf88]

Ebay has them for $185. That's if the one you have is NG.

$185!!??

Wow I would think they are cheaper somewhere else
I can get harman fans for like $110.

Thanks for the reply anyway.

 

[jlupi]

I think I read that there is a grainger model that will fit for around 40?????

 

[stoaf88]

Also since the red call for heat light is on shouldn't the auger motor be turning as well?

I guess ill have to test that tomorrow too.

Ill jump all the snap disks and vacuum switch and test voltage.

Any thoughts??

 

[jrsdws]

Random thoughts from my limited knowledge....vacuum problem and/or thermocouple assuming it has one. These two things play hell with EVERYTHING it seems. Jumping snap disks to rule them out are a good idea too.

 

[tjnamtiw]

Some people have used this motor as a replacement. http://www.amazon.com/Pellet-Blower...UTF8&colid=8CS88Z6P63FF&coliid=I3JYPX6JPITCRH

I don't think we can tell much more until you find out if the combustion blower is good or not.

 

[stoaf88]

Some people have used this motor as a replacement. http://www.amazon.com/Pellet-Blower...UTF8&colid=8CS88Z6P63FF&coliid=I3JYPX6JPITCRH

I don't think we can tell much more until you find out if the combustion blower is good or not.

Well I am pretty sure the motor is bad. Its getting 117 volts and not running.

 

[SwineFlue]

Also since the red call for heat light is on shouldn't the auger motor be turning as well?

I guess ill have to test that tomorrow too.

Ill jump all the snap disks and vacuum switch and test voltage.

Any thoughts??

The combustion blower should turn on as soon as the stove is plugged in. The auger will turn only when you have sufficient vacuum.

It does sound like a bad blower if you see about 120 volts at the blower (it varies with heat setting... the blower should draw roughly 35/30/25 watts on hi/med/lo respectively)

 

[stoaf88]

Ok so if I jump the vacuum switch then the auger should turn.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Ok so if I jump the vacuum switch then the auger should turn.

Yes, but without that combustion blower you could be in for a bit of smoke if the igniter manages to touch things off.

 

[stoaf88]

Yes, but without that combustion blower you could be in for a bit of smoke if the igniter manages to touch things off.

Yea thats fine the stove is in my garage right now.

I kust want to test all the parts and replace what needs to be fixed.

I am going to jump the #2 snap disk to make sure the convection blower works as well.

Anyone ever reset the snap disks? When i push the red buttons they dont click or anything
There is no feedback from those buttons.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The manual reset button goes in and locks, it is very hard to hear them. Sometimes it is even hard to feel them or to get my finger to be able to close them. I resort to a small screwdriver to reset them.

 

[SwineFlue]

Sorry, I was only trying to explain why it doesn't turn in your current state (no blower).

If you turn on or jumper the t-stat: the call light should turn on (it sounds like you see that, just above the fuse), the combustion blower should start (you're not getting that), and it should apply power to the igniter.

Once it senses vacuum, it should turn the auger continuously for a few seconds. You can jumper it for testing if the hopper is empty.

If the snap disks have not been tripped, you won't feel anything. IIRC a tripped one just feels like a push-button. I don't know what a failed one feels like, though.

 

[SwineFlue]

See post #36 by DexterDay in this thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quad-castile-combustion-fan.92374/page-2
The diagram of the Quad's startup sequence should help.

EDIT: Here's the post by itself: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quad-castile-combustion-fan.92374/page-2#post-1241211

 

[DexterDay]

See post #36 by DexterDay in this thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quad-castile-combustion-fan.92374/page-2
The diagram of the Quad's startup sequence should help.

EDIT: Here's the post by itself: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quad-castile-combustion-fan.92374/page-2#post-1241211

Good search

Good man...

I sent the OP the service manual through email also. Lots of good stuff posted already.

Jumping vac switch will tell you if auger is working.

The combustion blower that tjnamtiw posted, is the same replacement blower I bought. Although 2 years ago, it was cheaper.

 

[SwineFlue]

Good search

I had downloaded your diagram a few weeks ago. Thanks for posting it! Is there a date on it? His 2001 and my 2002 controller will operate *slightly* differently. For instance, my igniter turns off in step 8, not 10.

 

[stoaf88]

Sorry, I was only trying to explain why it doesn't turn in your current state (no blower).

If you turn on or jumper the t-stat: the call light should turn on (it sounds like you see that, just above the fuse), the combustion blower should start (you're not getting that), and it should apply power to the igniter.

Once it senses vacuum, it should turn the auger continuously for a few seconds. You can jumper it for testing if the hopper is empty.

If the snap disks have not been tripped, you won't feel anything. IIRC a tripped one just feels like a push-button. I don't know what a failed one feels like, though.

no need to be sorry i really appreciate the help

 

[stoaf88]

Good search

Good man...

I sent the OP the service manual through email also. Lots of good stuff posted already.

Jumping vac switch will tell you if auger is working.

The combustion blower that tjnamtiw posted, is the same replacement blower I bought. Although 2 years ago, it was cheaper.

yes thanks for that dexter the service guide has been very helpful

 

[stoaf88]

So when I got home from work tonight I jumped the vacuum switch and the tstat.

Plugged in the stove and the auger fed pellets so that was good.

Then I jumped the #2 snap disk and the convection blower ran, another good sign.

Looked at the igniter and it was glowing red, so everything looks good.

So I figured I may as well take out the combustion fan so I can replace it. I took off the 3 nuts holding it on in the back of the stove.

Then I took off the baffle in the front and took out the firebricks. To my surprise I discovered a lot of old insulation and acorns. Obvious signs of mouse activity. Then when I finally got to the fan blades for the combustion blower I found he real problem. I am pretty sure what was jamming up the combustion blower was the dead bird I found stuck in the fan blades.

After cleaning out all the junk, trash, and dead animals from the exhaust path, the combustion blower is working again!

The funny thing is I was able to turn the motor by hand, but the motor couldnt turn itself with the dead bird jammed in there.

So now the stove is running great. Now all I need to do is get the damn ash dumper unjammed. Got a real nice stove for 500 bux. Ill take some pics after I get the stove put back together.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[DexterDay]

Sounds like its all working out for you.

I would still remove both motors and blowers, to clean the squirrel cage and vanes, and also put a drop or two of oil on the bearings (there sealed bearings, but it will still help) ?

As for the ash dump. It may be rusted at the joint and/or carbon build up on the flat sliding plate.

 

[stoaf88]

Sounds like its all working out for you.

I would still remove both motors and blowers, to clean the squirrel cage and vanes, and also put a drop or two of oil on the bearings (there sealed bearings, but it will still help) ?

As for the ash dump. It may be rusted at the joint and/or carbon build up on the flat sliding plate.

How do I get the combustion motor completely out?

Is there a set screw or something holding the fan blades on or something?

The blades need to come off I assume to get the motor completely out.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

How do I get the combustion motor completely out?

Is there a set screw or something holding the fan blades on or something?

The blades need to come off I assume to get the motor completely out.

Isn't there a disconnect plate on that held in place by 6 hex nuts?

There is a set screw but usually there is no need to remove the impeller to do a cleaning.

You should take a look at this to get an idea: http://www.amazon.com/Pellet-Blower...20/dp/B000W3Q4QO/ref=pd_rhf_gw_cpp_tab0_p_t_2

 

[stoaf88]

Isn't there a disconnect plate on that held in place by 6 hex nuts?

There is a set screw but usually there is no need to remove the impeller to do a cleaning.

You should take a look at this to get an idea: http://www.amazon.com/Pellet-Blower...20/dp/B000W3Q4QO/ref=pd_rhf_gw_cpp_tab0_p_t_2

In the back I removed the 3 nuts holding the motor in place. Then it was just stuck because of the impeller. I will look and see if the whole housing comes off in the back. Thanks.

 

[DexterDay]

There should be 6 small screws around those 3.

Put those 3 back in and remove the Six 1/4" screws.