Quad Castille heat exchanger cleaning rods.

[Stevekng]

I've had this stove for 5 years now and I remember asking a question on the pellet forum about being able to see into the burn chamber where the rods go throught the stove frame. Trouble is, I don't remember what the answer was, or if I even got an answer. It seems to me that this would be an issue for the vacuum in the stove. Anybody out there have an answer on this one?

 

[PoolGuyinCT]

I can see flame light through mine also, always have.

 

[DexterDay]

Those little cracks are "figured" into the vacuum loss. Just as the air wash and other cracks are (hole around Combustion blower shaft, etc).

No worries.. It's under negative pressure, so unless power failure happens, it's always drawing in. And if the stove loses vacuum? Then you have a much larger leak.

 

[Stevekng]

Those little cracks are "figured" into the vacuum loss. Just as the air wash and other cracks are (hole around Combustion blower shaft, etc).

No worries.. It's under negative pressure, so unless power failure happens, it's always drawing in. And if the stove loses vacuum? Then you have a much larger leak.

Thanks. By "little " do you mean about 1/16th inch ?

 

[SwineFlue]

Thanks. By "little " do you mean about 1/16th inch ?

Yeah, the gap is probably close to that:

 

[smalltown]

I see the same light around my cleaning rods. There are other places if you look with the room darkened such as on the latch end of the cleanout door, and where the igniter wires exit the underside side (right hand side) above the convection fan.
I agree with Dexter "Those little cracks are "figured" into the vacuum loss"

 

[kinsmanstoves]

There is really no way that this can be sealed and the rod still able to move. All stoves are not 100% sealed.

Eric

 

[Stevekng]

If someone could figure out a way to have the stove completely sealed, would the stove run more efficiently?

 

[kinsmanstoves]

If someone could figure out a way to have the stove completely sealed, would the stove run more efficiently?

That is a question that I have no clue on the answer. I would guess that you would have almost no air wash for the glass.

 

[slls]

I know when you plug the air wash it radiates more heat, and the convection air seems hotter.

 

[DexterDay]

I know when you plug the air wash it radiates more heat, and the convection air seems hotter.

I closed off my 2 little side windows (tin foil, measured to length and folded several times to fit in upper slot) .
I did notice, that not only did the flame get more active, but it was Hotter and Pot stayed CLEAN!!

Really dont need them in there. But after discovering that Mod a few yrs back, I have tried it on Everything I own. My Fahrenheit has a semi plugged wash. Only the center 30%-40% is open. It helped it.

 

[SwineFlue]

I closed off my 2 little side windows (tin foil, measured to length and folded several times to fit in upper slot) .
I did notice, that not only did the flame get more active, but it was Hotter and Pot stayed CLEAN!!

Really dont need them in there. But after discovering that Mod a few yrs back, I have tried it on Everything I own. My Fahrenheit has a semi plugged wash. Only the center 30%-40% is open. It helped it.

I just tried inserting and removing foil (several times) to block the middle ~50% of the airwash. Using an IR gun, the convection tube temperatures are a consistent 50-100 hotter with the foil! I'll have to try it again with smaller pieces of foil and measure air temperatures.

 

[smalltown]

We are drifting far afield from the original posters question, but I think it was answered.

What I noticed about my Castile was how the ash ramps up on the rear right hand corner. When cleaning with the vacuum (and the exhaust fan off) I was surprised to feel cold air entering the stove around the rear, and center baffles.
I added rope gasket around the center (bolted on panel) to stop the leak around the drop tube, and at the same time it seals the joints between the center panel, and both rear outside panels.
There is still a little leakage by the left baffle in the bottom right corner sneaking around the mount where the baffle drops into place. I'm thinking a wider piece of rope gasket might help.
One thing I have not tried (another Castile owner on here has) is closing up the hole around the thermocouple wires where they enter the fire box. I guess that would stop cold air from bypassing the burn pot, and that should raise air box temperature.

The only burning question (pun intended) is as Dexter previously stated "Those little cracks are "figured" into the vacuum loss" surely these leaks have been seen and calculations made for in the stoves design. What effect I ask myself might I have on my stove good or bad?

 

[PoolGuyinCT]

My center (bolted on as you say) came with thick rope gasket upside down " U" shape

 

[Stevekng]

We are drifting far afield from the original posters question, but I think it was answered.

What I noticed about my Castile was how the ash ramps up on the rear right hand corner. When cleaning with the vacuum (and the exhaust fan off) I was surprised to feel cold air entering the stove around the rear, and center baffles.
I added rope gasket around the center (bolted on panel) to stop the leak around the drop tube, and at the same time it seals the joints between the center panel, and both rear outside panels.
There is still a little leakage by the left baffle in the bottom right corner sneaking around the mount where the baffle drops into place. I'm thinking a wider piece of rope gasket might help.
One thing I have not tried (another Castile owner on here has) is closing up the hole around the thermocouple wires where they enter the fire box. I guess that would stop cold air from bypassing the burn pot, and that should raise air box temperature.

The only burning question (pun intended) is as Dexter previously stated "Those little cracks are "figured" into the vacuum loss" surely these leaks have been seen and calculations made for in the stoves design. What effect I ask myself might I have on my stove good or bad?

I have to think that the exaust(I think it's the exaust) fan behind the right hand plate is pulling the ash to that location. As far as closing off all sources of air leakage goes, I think the fact that you have air being pulled into the burn chamber kinda limits how much negative pressure you can really achieve because there is a combustion blower pulling out My vacuum cleaner has a gauge on it that tells you how good it's working. If I restrict the nozzle during operatiion, the gauge tells me that the unit isn't working right and the motor works harder. I don't know if I can use this comparison but like I asked;how much negative pressure can really be achieved or is necessary?

 

[slls]

I closed off my 2 little side windows (tin foil, measured to length and folded several times to fit in upper slot) .
I did notice, that not only did the flame get more active, but it was Hotter and Pot stayed CLEAN!!

Really dont need them in there. But after discovering that Mod a few yrs back, I have tried it on Everything I own. My Fahrenheit has a semi plugged wash. Only the center 30%-40% is open. It helped it.

Did you need to cut your air intake, I had popcorn, flaming pellets coming out. Put in a 1-1/4 inch plate to restrict flow, got it right. I used black silicone, easy to remove with paring knife.

 

[DexterDay]

Did you need to cut your air intake, I had popcorn, flaming pellets coming out. Put in a 1-1/4 inch plate to restrict flow, got it right. I used black silicone, easy to remove with paring knife.

On Low, not much Popcorning, but definitely more than normal. I removed it from the Quad. No need

After I sealed the hole for the T/C, that and replacing the ash pan and Door gasket (factory ones Leaked like Mad) I got enough air to keep the pot clean for about 2-4 weeks without interference.