Quadra Fire Hudson Bay NG

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SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
I bought this fireplace used. I converted it to NG from LP. I hooked it up to the gas line vented it out the wall. Pilot light lights and stay on. When I flip the switch to the burner it kicks on. Runs for 10sec-3min then clicks off. I have replaced the whole pilot light assembly. All new Thermocouple and thermopile and pilot light. Have adjusted it to were there is no yellow on it. I have replaced the Gas valve. Still same thing.

But the kicker is this thing will run like a dream if there is no wind or blowing from the west. But as soon as the wind blows 2mph from the east it will shut off after a little bit. Its on the Eastside of the house. Do I need a different wall termination cap. I have this one.
1610391611893.png


Do I need to get this one.
1610391692596.png


Service tech checked gas pressure we even replaced the brand new Thermopile with a 750mv one. And still does the same thing. The wall cap is the last thing to replace. My service guy is stumped. The only thing is I have completely disconnect the chimney from the stove and it still did the same thing. So I don't know if its a wind thing or not.

Help
 
Last edited:

DAKSY

Full Time RVer
Staff member
Dec 2, 2008
9,216
Wherever we're parked
Sounds like an air problem, but I think you can
correct it without changing out the cap.
Do this: Take the front off. Remove all the logs.
Replace the front. Light the pilot. Watch the pilot.
Does it hold steady? If so, light the burner.
Again, watch the pilot. What does the pilot do?
If it starts moving/dancing so that it has intermittent
contact with the thermocouple, it's the incoming air.
So, shut the unit down & let it cool.
Remove the front.
See if you can see where the combustion air comes into the firebox.
Should be located low in the firebox.
If there is an opening NEAR the pilot assembly,
try partially blocking it with a small piece of sheet metal
or a folded up sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil...
Re-install the front.
Relight the pilot. Watch it. Relight the burner.
If the pilot holds steady with the influx of
combustion air entering the fire box, you're good to go.
Let me know if that helps.
 

SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
Sounds like an air problem, but I think you can
correct it without changing out the cap.
Do this: Take the front off. Remove all the logs.
Replace the front. Light the pilot. Watch the pilot.
Does it hold steady? If so, light the burner.
Again, watch the pilot. What does the pilot do?
If it starts moving/dancing so that it has intermittent
contact with the thermocouple, it's the incoming air.
So, shut the unit down & let it cool.
Remove the front.
See if you can see where the combustion air comes into the firebox.
Should be located low in the firebox.
If there is an opening NEAR the pilot assembly,
try partially blocking it with a small piece of sheet metal
or a folded up sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil...
Re-install the front.
Relight the pilot. Watch it. Relight the burner.
If the pilot holds steady with the influx of
combustion air entering the fire box, you're good to go.
Let me know if that helps.
So it has two vents that feed the fire with fresh air. I took foil tape and partially blocked the one that’s under the pilot. I also took the foil tape and made a shield around the thermo/pilot assembly. I covered the other vent but more to deflect the air in another direction than cover it. Did that a week ago. Seemed to help but not completely. Still shuts off. I’ll tear into it again... see if anything has moved. I’ll take a video and post it.
 

SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
With the burner off it’s only putting out 600mv. When I turn it on it goes down to 200 then slowly drops then kicks off. This is the 3rd thermopile. They all do the same.
 

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SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID

The wind is blowing about 14mph straight into it. Usually it doesn’t go out so quickly.
 

DAKSY

Full Time RVer
Staff member
Dec 2, 2008
9,216
Wherever we're parked
OK, thanks. Looks like you may have a venting issue.
Those flames are doing what is called "ghosting."
Either there is a blockage in the incoming air, or
maybe a section has separated in the wall, allowing
spent gases to mix with the combustion air.
 

DAKSY

Full Time RVer
Staff member
Dec 2, 2008
9,216
Wherever we're parked
Question: Does it run with the glass off?
If so, take the last section of venting off &
look for something down inside, blocking
the incoming air path.
 

SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
I put it all back together with high temp silicone on the joints. And this is what it does. Sorry one video wouldn’t load so I cut in to two.

 

SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
Pull the front. Turn it on. What happens?
So this thing runs fine with the front off. I pulled the whole thing apart to see if there was something blocking the exhaust and there’s nothing so I checked the intake. And there’s nothing in that either.

 
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SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
Wind died down and this GD thing runs great. Do I need to go up and terminate vertical because a brand new unit will probably do the same thing right.
 

DAKSY

Full Time RVer
Staff member
Dec 2, 2008
9,216
Wherever we're parked
No wind would be the same as having the stove unconnected...
I am really familiar with the Regency U39, which I believe you have.
The only time wind affected that unit was when it blew directly into
that cap & recirculated the combustion gases into the intake.
That resulted in sooting when LP is the fuel. We experienced that
a couple of times. The cap you have should protect it from the wind.
Maybe the more open cap you cited above might help, but it's not cheap.
If the dealer will trade you for testing purposes, go for it.
As far as the elbow, getting hotter than the rest of the vent,
It's normal. That 90 acts as a restrictor to the exhaust gas &
that will cause the increase in temperature...
 
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SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
No wind would be the same as having the stove unconnected...
I am really familiar with the Regency U39, which I believe you have.
The only time wind affected that unit was when it blew directly into
that cap & recirculated the combustion gases into the intake.
That resulted in sooting when LP is the fuel. We experienced that
a couple of times. The cap you have should protect it from the wind.
Maybe the more open cap you cited above might help, but it's not cheap.
If the dealer will trade you for testing purposes, go for it.
As far as the elbow, getting hotter than the rest of the vent,
It's normal. That 90 acts as a restrictor to the exhaust gas &
that will cause the increase in temperature...
The wind has changed back to an east wind but it’s still running. I’m on NG. I’m wondering if a straight vertical chimney would solve this.

i have the more open cap now not the super high wind lower one that’s covered. It was$220 I believe from a local place.
 
Jan 9, 2017
169
Upstate NY
The wind has changed back to an east wind but it’s still running. I’m on NG. I’m wondering if a straight vertical chimney would solve this.

i have the more open cap now not the super high wind lower one that’s covered. It was$220 I believe from a local place.
You are getting exhaust air, back into the intake. The problem is finding where. I have heard of somebody that had a problem similar to yours, and after trying every other possible scenario, he went and got new vent pipe. Turned out the used pipe he had reused, was damaged and caused all his headache!
 

SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
You are getting exhaust air, back into the intake. The problem is finding where. I have heard of somebody that had a problem similar to yours, and after trying every other possible scenario, he went and got new vent pipe. Turned out the used pipe he had reused, was damaged and caused all his headache!
Well the vertical and the 90° are reused. So tomorrow I’ll go grab some new pipe. Was one thing I was thinking about doing.
 
Jan 9, 2017
169
Upstate NY
Well the vertical and the 90° are reused. So tomorrow I’ll go grab some new pipe. Was one thing I was thinking about doing.
Sorry to State the obvious, but all your venting has to be the same brand. it looks like your vent cap is Duravent, so I would recommend you stick with that. I much prefer that brand over others...
And I have a dumb question. Why did the previous owner sell this stove? Good chance he was dealing with the same thing you are. The other individual I was telling you about, if I remember correctly the previous owner in a fit of rage had given the stove away.
 

SmokeyMtn

New Member
Jan 11, 2021
14
Jerome, ID
Sorry to State the obvious, but all your venting has to be the same brand. it looks like your vent cap is Duravent, so I would recommend you stick with that. I much prefer that brand over others...
And I have a dumb question. Why did the previous owner sell this stove? Good chance he was dealing with the same thing you are. The other individual I was telling you about, if I remember correctly the previous owner in a fit of rage had given the stove away.
That’s why I’m on here because I have no idea what’s the problem. Hoping that it is something obvious and easy fix. Really don’t want to cut a hole in the ceiling and the roof.

The guy I bought it from had pulled it out of his sisters house and had been sitting in the shed for 6 months. He said. Could be feeding me BS. But I will never know. I figured after rebuilding the whole thing there shouldn’t be any reason it shouldn’t.

Might be a dumb question but. If I got a new one and repiped it why wouldn’t it do the same thing as this and not transfer air? When I have the front off I can feel cool air coming in from outside three the intakes. So hopefully it’s the pipe that’s Fubar’d.