Quadrafire auger problem

[Gt5228]

So this stove is new to me but I bought it used for 500. This morning the auger quit turning.. After cleanng my stove didnt work i took the auger out and tried to see if the motor would turn freely on its own. It didn't.. What might be causing me this problem? How can I diagnose this? I can use a multimeter... I have a feeling it's the controle box thing in the picture because the plastic switch thing seems like it should be seated better in the metal part but it doesent, like it's not attached or something. How can i test individual components to isolate my problem to individual parts. Please be descriptive because I don't know all the names of the parts. Thanks

 

[SwineFlue]

What model Quad stove is that? I'm guessing that is an aftermarket vacuum switch (the metallic box mounted on the back cover). If so, check that the rubber hose attached to it is not cracked or plugged.

 

[Gt5228]

What model Quad stove is that? I'm guessing that is an aftermarket vacuum switch (the metallic box mounted on the back cover). If so, check that the rubber hose attached to it is not cracked or plugged.

It's the Santa Fe model... I checked the rubber tube and its deff not cracked or plugged... I tried taking the plastic switch part out and pushing by hand and it but has but no effect on the motor? Is this a sign of something?

 

[tjnamtiw]

You said the auger motor didn't turn. Were you trying to turn it by hand or by applying 110 volts to it? Do the latter. Then get back to us.

If it turns with power, you could have very easily done something to kill the vacuum such as leaving the drop gate open on the burn pot.

Swineflue, my stoves have the rectangular metal vac switches like that and not the round plastic ones.

 

[SwineFlue]

my stoves have the rectangular metal vac switches like that and not the round plastic ones

Thanks, I hadn't seen the rectangular ones, mine is round metal. I had been about to suggest jumpering it, then realized that could've been dangerous since I wasn't sure what I was looking at.

 

[Gt5228]

You said the auger motor didn't turn. Were you trying to turn it by hand or by applying 110 volts to it? Do the latter. Then get back to us.

If it turns with power, you could have very easily done something to kill the vacuum such as leaving the drop gate open on the burn pot.

Swineflue, my stoves have the rectangular metal vac switches like that and not the round plastic ones.

Does the motor take 110? Are u positive it doesent have some kind of voltage regulator? The burn pot was opened when I realized it didnt work but now it's closed and still not working..

 

[Gt5228]

Fixed! It was disk switch #3. All i had to do was reset it!

 

[stoveguy13]

If the number 3 tripped it did it for a reason if you haven't already given it a good cleaning behind the baffles thats a good place to start also make sure your exhaust blower and pipe are clean as well

 

[SwineFlue]

Fixed! It was disk switch #3. All i had to do was reset it!

Snap Disk #3 would have killed power to the entire stove. Were any lights or blowers working when you had the "auger" problem?

This is a sign of a serious overheat condition. Either the convection blower has a problem, or like stoveguy13 said clean the heat exchanger tubes above the baffle and the exhaust path behind the rear plates. Also ensure the exhaust vent pipe is clean.

Do you have a manual for this stove? If not you can download it from the Quad web site.

 

[tjnamtiw]

Does the motor take 110? Are u positive it doesent have some kind of voltage regulator? The burn pot was opened when I realized it didnt work but now it's closed and still not working..

Yes, the motors are all 110 volt motors. The control box chops some of the sine wave to make them run slower on lower heat settings. (not the auger motor, though). I'm glad I had the open drop gate right. The only other thing, short of the control box, was the #3 snap disk that cuts power to the controls. LIke stoveguy and swineflue said, #3 is THE main guard against burning your house down! If it tripped, it's either faulty or you had a SERIOUS over=fire condition. How high was your flame? Did you adjust the feed rate on HIGH so that the height was an average of about 6" or about 1/2 way to the angled plate that covers the tubes?
PLease answer everyone's questions since we worry about things like this in fellow members' posts.

 

[Gt5228]

Well initial blower(convection?)was running and ignition coil was glowing so maybe it was snap disk 2? Which one is which and where is #1?(if there is one..) really appreciate the concern tjnam.

 

[SwineFlue]

How old is your stove? The older Castile stoves like mine have a reset button on snap disc #2 (to the auger feed motor), the newer ones are self-resetting. It changed sometime between 2005 & 2011.

This from the latest Santa Fe manual:
16. Snap Disc #1 (Convection Blower) 110°F
Snap disc #1 is located on the right side of the appliance on
the bottom of the heat exchanger box. There are 2 purple
wires connected to it. This snap disc turns the convection
blower on and off as needed. Power is always present at
snap disc #1.
17. Snap Disc #2 (Fuel Delivery Interrupt) 250°F
Snap disc #2 is also located on the back side of the feed drop
tube. There are 2 orange wires connected to it. This snap disc
will turn off the feed system which will turn off the appliance
if an overfire condition should occur or if the convection
blower should fail to operate. If this occurs the snap disc will
automatically reset itself.
18. Snap Disc #3 (Back Burn Protector) 250°F
Snap disc #is mounted on the back of the auger tube in the
center of the appliance and has a red reset button. To access
it remove the right side panel. If the fire tries to burn back
into the feed system or push exhaust up the feed tube, this
snap disc will shut the entire system off. This disc must be
manually reset.

 

[tjnamtiw]

Well initial blower(convection?)was running and ignition coil was glowing so maybe it was snap disk 2? Which one is which and where is #1?(if there is one..) really appreciate the concern tjnam.

Glad we can help!
The initial fan is the combustion fan that pulls the vacuum on the burn chamber and blows out the exhaust pipe. Snap disk #1 controls the convection/room blower. It's probably mounted on the right side of the fire box cabinet and has purple wires. Snap disk #2 is mounted on the back of the drop tube and controls the power to the vacuum switch and auger. It would NOT shut off the call for heat light. Snap disk #3 is mounted on the back of the auger tube and would shut the entire system down if a fire found its way down the auger tube on its way to the hopper.
If the coil was glowing and the exhaust blower was running, then none of the snap disks would cause the call for heat light to not come on if you have a jumper wire across the terminals on the stove.
I think it's time for you to step back and start over. Then feed us with new info.

PS: Looks like swineflue and I are on the same schedule but he types faster than me! hahaha

 

[Countryboymo]

When I purchased mine it had been unplugged all summer and they plugged it in and something didn't work... can't remember now but they thought it was the control box. I gambled and gave them 900 for it 5 years ago since it was a red porcelain in great shape and after some research and cleaning realized it was a snap disk had tripped. He said it was running when they shut it down for spring and upon sliding it around to clean one side came partially off and it got banged around making them think something got shook loose in the control box. They opted to go back to a stick wood stove since the area stove guy wasn't very responsive... and is now out of business.

I think its possible but needs monitoring.