Question about snout install through chimney.

[Tdognc]

Hello,

My wife and I are looking to have a new BK installed for our chimney. The previous owners had an old Buck stove that was drafting excessively, had signs of over firing, and the space it was in wasn't up code so we decided to renovate the entire space at the same time. The BK sits higher than the buck stove so the old hole will have to be patched and a new hole will have to be drilled above it, but due to the renovations the chimney now sits off center to the left of the alcove it will be in. I was wondering if it would be possible to drill through the brick at an angle to have one end of the hole line up with the inside of the chimney while the outer portion lines up with the center of the alcove (offset on the right of the chimney). Would this even be possible, or would I just have to have the hole exiting the center of the chimney wall and be offset to the left in the alcove (we plan to tile over the surrounding walls so the chimney would not be visible at all). I have attached a photo of the space with a rough sketch overlaid and a crude diagram if that helps.

Thanks,

Tdognc

 

[begreen]

First, make sure the chimney is safe, clean, and the liner appropriately sized for the new stove. If it is, I would not move the thimble, especially if the draft is relatively strong. The offset is fine, it may helpin slowing down the draft a little.

 

[stoveliker]

Angling the snout to have a longer length in the wall would significantly weaken the wall.
What does that wall hold up?

 

[begreen]

Angling the snout to have a longer length in the wall would significantly weaken the wall.
What does that wall hold up?

Yes, and if the flue tile is rectangular clay and not a stainless liner, then hitting it on the corner would be a big can-o-worms.

 

[Tdognc]

First, make sure the chimney is safe, clean, and the liner appropriately sized for the new stove. If it is, I would not move the thimble, especially if the draft is relatively strong. The offset is fine, it may helpin slowing down the draft a little.

We are, we are getting a new flue installed at the same time appropriate to the stove (double insulated 8" for King 40).

 

[Tdognc]

Angling the snout to have a longer length in the wall would significantly weaken the wall.
What does that wall hold up?

The wall in front of the chimney is not load bearing and will only support the tile I place on it.

Yes, and if the flue tile is rectangular clay and not a stainless liner, then hitting it on the corner would be a big can-o-worms.

The flue will be a new stainless liner. We don't trust the previous owners to have done a proper job with everything else that was out sorts with the stove and I know they went with whatever was the cheapest option possible.

 

[stoveliker]

So it's not a concrete coring that would need to be done?
And with a liner you can rotate the snout.
If the wall doesn't support anything, and your sense of aesthetics is demanding the hole to come out elsewhere, then you could do it.

Though it'll look awkward with a shallow entrance angle, and the larger radius of the 8" piping. You'll have a long transition where the pipe enters the wall. You'll need a big collar to cover that, which, to my sense of aesthetics doesn't look great either.

 

[Tdognc]

So it's not a concrete coring that would need to be done?
And with a liner you can rotate the snout.
If the wall doesn't support anything, and your sense of aesthetics is demanding the hole to come out elsewhere, then you could do it.

Though it'll look awkward with a shallow entrance angle, and the larger radius of the 8" piping. You'll have a long transition where the pipe enters the wall. You'll need a big collar to cover that, which, to my sense of aesthetics doesn't look great either.

No, no concrete, just cement board over the brick with tile on top. As for the transition for the pipe, I believe you mean that with a shallow angle the hole would look more oblong and stretched laterally into an oval shape if you were looking at it straight on?

 

[stoveliker]

Yes

 

[Tdognc]

Yes

Could I not cover the edges with cement board and tile so as to have a nice round exit hole like in this diagram? I would have to have a custom snout though, seeing as I would need it to have a joint at an angle to make it come out straight - only I don't know if it could be installed with a joint in it.

 

[stoveliker]

A pipe going in straight and transitioning to angles means a connection in the wall.
I don't know how you would connect/secure the joint with screws if you don't have access to it .

 

[EbS-P]

Can this be done with the current thimble out to a 90 positioned at 45 degrees from vertical and then a 45 to mar the pipe vertical? Does that make sense?

 

[bholler]

Could I not cover the edges with cement board and tile so as to have a nice round exit hole like in this diagram? I would have to have a custom snout though, seeing as I would need it to have a joint at an angle to make it come out straight - only I don't know if it could be installed with a joint in it.

View attachment 344457

What is next to the chimney structure?

 

[Tdognc]

A pipe going in straight and transitioning to angles means a connection in the wall.
I don't know how you would connect/secure the joint with screws if you don't have access to it .

I was supposing it could be a welded joint, though I don't know if that is code.

Can this be done with the current thimble out to a 90 positioned at 45 degrees from vertical and then a 45 to mar the pipe vertical? Does that make sense?

In that case the stove would be centered but the stove pipe would be coming out at a 45 degree angle downward (if looking at it from the front)?

What is next to the chimney structure?

The chimney is centrally located in the house with the old hearth located on the opposite side of the chimney we are looking to install the stove into. The original hearth is in the kitchen which takes up a good deal of space and is also in a terrible position to heat the home. The previous owners had a closet at the end of their main hallway opened up to make the current alcove where the stove sits, that is what you are seeing in the original photo I posted. Technically the stove pipe is coming out of the "back" of the chimney based on the original orientation.

 

[EbS-P]

In that case the stove would be centered but the stove pipe would be coming out at a 45 degree angle downward (if looking at it from the front)?

Yes

 

[bholler]

I was supposing it could be a welded joint, though I don't know if that is code.


In that case the stove would be centered but the stove pipe would be coming out at a 45 degree angle downward (if looking at it from the front)?


The chimney is centrally located in the house with the old hearth located on the opposite side of the chimney we are looking to install the stove into. The original hearth is in the kitchen which takes up a good deal of space and is also in a terrible position to heat the home. The previous owners had a closet at the end of their main hallway opened up to make the current alcove where the stove sits, that is what you are seeing in the original photo I posted. Technically the stove pipe is coming out of the "back" of the chimney based on the original orientation.

OK but what butts up against the edge of the chimney? I think you are going to have problems with clearance to combustibles which won't be easy to address

 

[Tdognc]

OK but what butts up against the edge of the chimney? I think you are going to have problems with clearance to combustibles which won't be easy to address

Well, the floor is hardwood and the walls are standard 2x4 walls if that is what you mean; I can't move then out any more than they already are nor can I mess with the ceiling height. I checked clearances based off the BK 40 clearance specs they post online and everything is within proper clearance specifications. One side of the chimney is against one of the walls on the left while there is a gap, if you are looking at it straight on, on the right side. You should be able to see it in the photo from my first post if that is what you are asking. Even with backer board and tile everything will be within specifications.