Question for Oslo owners

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FWWARDEN

Member
Dec 1, 2008
94
West Windsor, Vermont
Been burning my Oslo for a couple months now. When I first got it, the thing was so tight, the fire would go out if I hadn't hit 250 F+, even with the setting all the way open. Recently it's been a lot easier to start, plus whereas I could not previously get a fire beyond 500 F, I have to dial back on the damper or risk an overfire now. I believe I must have lost a little cement sealant somewhere. Has anybody had this issue, and do you know where you lost the sealant from, so I can take a look at those areas which might be causing the stove to run hotter. Not even sure if this is a problem.
 
May not necessarily be any problem;could your draft be better now with colder weather versus two months ago?
 
You can check for missing stove cement by visually inspecting the firebox. Ditto for gasket material around the doors.

I have a new Oslo this year as well and there is no question it draws better when the temperature drops outside. When it is only in the 50's I have to run with the air control at least 1/2 open, sometimes 3/4 open just to keep the stove up to 300 degrees. Currently it is 23 deg. outside and the stove is running 450 deg. with the intake air control about 1/3 open.

Mark
 
the colder the better
 
check to make sure all three doors are sealing tightly, chimney may have something to do with this as well, colder temps, keeping chim hotter. How is that stove vented? Have you done the "dollar bill" test on the doors? Also check the glass clips to make sure they haven't come loose. It's not uncommon with Jotul stoves to find pieces of cement inside that was excess when the pieces were put together and break off during use, unless there is a gap shouldn't affect the burn. If you take heat tape & close off the air intake and see no difference, it may be pulling air from somewhere else.
 
I believe it must be the draft,as everything seems tight. I ran my chimney straight up, inside the house; it's twenty one feet total so the draft has been really strong as the temps have dipped into the teens and single digits. Thanks for the responses.
 
Sounds normal, this will be my 5th winter with my Oslo and most of the time the front draft control is 75% or more closed depending on the weather outside.
My Oslo will quickly overfire if the draft control is more than say 50% + open for any length of time with a good load. Between colder temps and stove operation experience your ok.
I have a straight stack 18' of Selkirk (doublewall/Metalbestos) Draft is really good for me, sometimes on really windy nights the draft control is about 90% closed.
It's not out of the ordinary to run my stove up to 600 and then shut her down.

WoodButcher
 
I had a similar observation when my Oslo was new. 3 seasons on it now and my settings are similar to what other have posted here.

If I am set to more than 1/3 open with a full load of oak its off to the races. 1/3 - 1/4 open yields 450-500 and is very controllable.

Anyone have a Jotul 600 they want to trade for a 500+ cash to make it even???? (a fantasy, I know...)

:)

JD
 
This is my comment on the oslo. I believe they have a built in poor draft. Mine is OK, it does the job, but you would think with 20ft straight class A, it would roar right now. It takes a while to get going, kinda like startin out in 3rd gear. It finally gets up to speed and like I said does a good job. My other stove a Douche west in my shop with 16 ft chimney, takes off like a rocket. I have to be carefull with that one. Both heat good and you cant beat the looks of the enamel finish on the Oslo, but in a drag race it loses
 
I might add that I know on the Dutchwest with the bypass open its a straight up shot. Im not sure how the smoke leaves the Oslo. It might have to wiggle around and go thru some type offset inside the stove. That could be the diference
 
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