Questions on Jotul Oslo 3 years into the stove

[Yarzy]

Hey guys, I was sitting and watching the fire last night and something dawned on me…I am not sure I am using my stove 100% correctly. I have owned my Jotul Oslo for 3 years now, and each is getting better, mainly due to dry wood finally. I do have some basic questions about the air control and maintenance on it. Can you tell me how you guys control the air? How long do you let it burn on high before starting to turn it down? Do you turn it down in stages all the time? Do you even shut the air control off completely in order to maximize the time in between reloads? On that topic, how often are you reloading and when you do, are you packing it full or putting 3-5 splits in at a time? I burn mixed hardwoods only.
One other thing I wanted to know is the rope seal. I noticed that my seal started to come off in the corner, but I was able to tuck it back in place and it seemed to be fine. Should I just replace it to be safe? How often should I be replacing it? Anything else I should be checking on a yearly basis outside of the standard cleaning?
THANKS! I can't believe I have these questions 3 years in, but I just want to make sure I am getting the most out of my stove.

 

[Butcher]

I turn my air down a in stages on a cold load. 300° ST i turn a quarter down. Then in awhile I turn to half and then usually to a quarter open. Sometimes that is also dictated on how my fire is burning and my stack temps. On a reload I usually leave the air open just long enough to get a good fire started and then right to half way, and then down to a quarter before things get to hot. Right now mine is turned all the way down cuz the first load of the day took off pretty fast on me. I usually take into account the ST temp, the stack temp and how the far is burning. That wasnt much help was it?
I usually reload every 5 hours unless I need more heat. But, I dont stuff the stove full. If I was to do that it would get so hot in my house we couldnt stand it.
I had a 1 inch section of the gasket on the side door come loose this fall. I stuck it back in the groove, loaded the stove and shut the door. Been fine since and I'm not noticing any leaks.
Even though we have the same kinda stove, I'm sure how I burn mine and you yours are going to be completly different. Alot of variables involved. Type and size of chimney, wood types, outside conditions, even if you live in town were winds are calmer than out in the middle of nowhere like me. Have I confused you even more?

 

[Shari]

Butcher -

Really? You start tuning down at 300 stove top temp? What's your high range when you do the final air shut down? I say this because I might give it a try.

Normally, I start shutting down around 450 stove top and second shut down (to almost closed) is around 500. I normally only do a 2-stage shut down.

 

[begreen]

If you have good draft, starting to turn down at 300F is ok with some setups. I used to be able to do that with the Castine as well.

 

[begreen]

Hey guys, I was sitting and watching the fire last night and something dawned on me…I am not sure I am using my stove 100% correctly. I have owned my Jotul Oslo for 3 years now, and each is getting better, mainly due to dry wood finally. I do have some basic questions about the air control and maintenance on it. Can you tell me how you guys control the air? How long do you let it burn on high before starting to turn it down?
That depends on the wood, the starting method and the draft. Let it burn on high until all the wood is starting to burn. This could be 5 minutes with a partial load of nice dry smaller splits or 15-20 minutes with a full load of large splits.

Do you turn it down in stages all the time?
Yes, always. Though sometime in as little as 2 stages on a reload.

Do you even shut the air control off completely in order to maximize the time in between reloads?
Yes, if possible. As long as the fire is not smoldering (no smoke out of the chimney).

On that topic, how often are you reloading and when you do, are you packing it full or putting 3-5 splits in at a time? I burn mixed hardwoods only.
Depends on the outdoor temps. Less splits means less heat and more frequent loading. In fall and spring, that is pretty normal. In winter full loads are the norm for us.

One other thing I wanted to know is the rope seal. I noticed that my seal started to come off in the corner, but I was able to tuck it back in place and it seemed to be fine. Should I just replace it to be safe?
Only if it needs it. Otherwise just put a spot of RTV silicone behind the loose part and then press the gasket back in the channel. Close the door and let it sit for a day before refiring.

How often should I be replacing it?
That depends on usage. Every 3-4 yrs has been my experience, but yours may vary. When it no longer seals well is the best judgement. If it fails the dollar bill test replace it.

Anything else I should be checking on a yearly basis outside of the standard cleaning?
Always look for cracks inside and out, but especially around the grate. Look for signs of uneven burning too.

THANKS! I can't believe I have these questions 3 years in, but I just want to make sure I am getting the most out of my stove.

 

[Butcher]

Butcher -

Really? You start tuning down at 300 stove top temp? What's your high range when you do the final air shut down? I say this because I might give it a try.

Normally, I start shutting down around 450 stove top and second shut down (to almost closed) is around 500. I normally only do a 2-stage shut down.

Yep. 300 it is. If I was to let the ST temps get much higher I would be cookin my 20ga. stove pipe to a crisp.I only have 4 feet of pipe and 1 ell and then into a 6x6 clay flue that is an interier chimney about 18 foot in length. But like I said to the OP there are alot of variables to consider. I live in the middle of farm country with winter winds that can sometimes get well over 50mph for several days. I get a chimney draft that most would only wish for sometimes. Most days Black Sabbath will get up to 600° to 700° if I aint carefull. But, therein lies the rub. The wood I burn is what I have locally that I can cut. Mostly elm, ash, and soft maple and cherry. Like I said before, there just seems to be to many variables to give advice to someone on how to burn wood in thier particular situation.
Burnin wood, so easy even a cave man could do it.

 

[firefighterjake]

Air control open all the way at start up . . . when my probe thermo gets into the Goldlilocks Zone of not being too cool or too hot I start closing the air control.

If the stove has been running for a while and has a nice charge of hot coals I can often immediately close it to the quarter mark . . . if on a cold start and at other times I will close it down incrementally . . . sometimes going to the 3/4 open mark and sometimes just going to the half way open mark before getting down to the quarter mark . . . or all the way closed if the fire is going well with a sustained secondary action.

Reloading . . . depends on how much heat I need and the schedule. This time of year I typically load up at 9:30 p.m. and when I get up at 4:30 a.m. there are enough coals for an easy relight with kindling and/or small splits. When my wife gets home from work or wakes up around 8 or so she will reload the stove and if the heat is needed we generally will keep reloading every 3-5 hours. I typically take over at 5 p.m. and may do partial reloads to try to time my final full reload at 9:30 or so.