I'm putting a very small woodstove back in an old mobile home. Took it out last summer with plans to replace it. Decided to save some and just reinstall. We removed the hearth pad and heat shield for the wall. Not concerned with inspection but do want it safe. So, can I simply nail up some sheetrock on the wall for protection behne the stove since I hear it it fireproof? And, can I just lay down some backerboard and glue tiles on it for a hearth pad. It doesn't need to look good - just be safe, functional quick and cheap. I may replace the entire setup next fall, but also might remove the mobile.
Quick and Easy Hearth Pad
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The paper on sheetrock is combustible, not fireproof. If you want to put up a cheap heatshield use durock instead. There must be an airspace behind it. Use doubled up 3" strips of 1/2" durock to create the air space and screw it to the studs. Hearthpad requirements vary from stove to stove. You'll have to tell us more about what stove this is and what your clearances are before we can give you advice. But tiles are not glued to backerboard, they are placed on a thinset mortar base, then grouted.
Thanks BeGreen. Stove is so old I don't know its make. Small , barrel type side loader but puts out a good hot fire. We put a cheap laminate floor on top of linoleum and wall is thin wood panel. It sits about 10-12 inches from the rear wall and about the same from the floor. Mobile home is circa 1971. The stove has been there for a long time. My college daughter lives there and she isn't home much of the time. Mainly want to warm it up in early evenings and weekends. We live a few steps away so I'll tend the fire. Her idea of good heat is to turn the dial up on the little gas furnace, but she just got the first cold weather electric bill. 9:30 in the evening here in Portland area and already have some frost on the car so I hope to do a quick fix and fire up the stove.
I stressed over this when I tore out a hearth pad that was approx 25 years old. Basically some 2x4s with sheet rock and tile. Not exactly elegant.
Ended up doing a very simple thing. Used pavers to cover the base, and framed it with some wood. Underneath the pavers is a thin layer of tile. I did not set the pavers with cement or anything similar. It is loose. It has worked flawlessly, no muss, no fuss, and all I did was lay brike to the diminsions I wanted, bracketed it with wood, stained it to have a trim apperance, no thinset or cement, and it has worked fine. Abolute simplest solution after grousing over all kinds of complicated ideas. I used pavers instead of bricks to offset weight. Couldn't be happier...
Ended up doing a very simple thing. Used pavers to cover the base, and framed it with some wood. Underneath the pavers is a thin layer of tile. I did not set the pavers with cement or anything similar. It is loose. It has worked flawlessly, no muss, no fuss, and all I did was lay brike to the diminsions I wanted, bracketed it with wood, stained it to have a trim apperance, no thinset or cement, and it has worked fine. Abolute simplest solution after grousing over all kinds of complicated ideas. I used pavers instead of bricks to offset weight. Couldn't be happier...
bcnu said:
drhiii said:
Drhiii, huh? No offence intended, but I'm not even sure I understand what you built. Over, under, framed this... what?
I have yet to build my hearth, but plan on a simple design. First to frame the base with metal 2x4s. Then on top of that will be 3 sheets of cement board, possibly with a layer of galvanized metal sandwiched in one of the layers. On top of these boards will simply be 12x12" slate tiles mortered and grouted in place. BeGreen nailed the backer board design, so I wont' repeat here.
-Kevin
None taken. I removed the crummy existing hearth pad and found about a 1" rectangle as a wood floor had been installed around it years before. I used pavers (1/2 sized bricks), dropped them in, aligned them, created a space for the through-the-floor air intake which existed already (an advantage), and ended up bracketing the now paver pad with some decorative wood, and stained it. Works pefectly. I did NOT set the pavers in place thinking when I brough the stove in, if I by chance cracked one, I could replace it. It worked better, because not only did I not crack one, I have had exactly 0 problems with it since. I was overthinking the whole thing, and pavers plus wood borders minus setting the pavers in with cement have worked very well. The ony real work was creating a tight fit, and all I did was pour some thinset into a shallow canal at the back of the pavers, against the wall, using aluminum foil to create the form, and that worked perfectly as well. I am very happy that I did not cement the pavers in place. Absolutely no need. I have been burning for 2 months with this new setup, it is 15 degrees out, and things are very toasty. I thought cleaning the pavers might be the challenge. Not so. Vacuum up the small wood elements from transferring wood to the stove, and things look dandy. I am very glad I went this route, instead of overthinking the situation. Works for me.
wrenchmonster said:
I don't think I answered your question very well. I framed it. Framed the pavers layout. Am more than happy with this simple, manageable solution in our living room.
wrenchmonster said:
Still not sure I completely understand. Let me try and describe what I'm envisioning. Ripped out old hearth. Okay. Then a layer of tiles. Then pavers. Then brick. And the whole thing framed out in a wood trim? Is that right?
bcnu, that stove sounds like it has way greater clearance requirements than 12" from a wall. Can't say about the floor. There is no way I can recommend options when safety is not being considered. Sorry, the way it's been described, the setup is what gives wood burning a bad name. Post a picture of the stove if you want to get proper clearances but without more info, I'm guessing it requires at least 24" from a wall.
Yeah, I didn't answer very well, still.
Simplest way to describe: pavers in a not so square configuration, with a wood border. Underneath... tile, that is fireproof.
Simplest way to describe: pavers in a not so square configuration, with a wood border. Underneath... tile, that is fireproof.
wrenchmonster said:
Napoleon 1400. All specs or requirements are met. Made sure of that. Acquired some oak today... burning like a champ, and using far less wood, far less tending, hotter, overall... excellent results from the Napoleon.
BeGreen said:
The old hearth and wall heat shield(must be a more proper name for it) worked well. I'll measure previous clearances tomorrow as the chimney pipe(from ceiling to outside) is still in place. I like the idea of setting hearth without mortar or thinset or grout etc - but safety will be my first concern. Think I'll talk with county build. dept for current regs. May end up moving stove to a better spot. I appreciate all the ideas as I have many questions about burning with wood.
All I can say is I was obsessed with all kinds of ideas, mine and many more frm other people. My brother was the one who suggested to lay pavers, create a border for structural and cosmetic purposes, and not worry about setting the pavers. I was highly skeptical. Not any more. All worked well... even for clean up. Having pavers loose, just fitted and relying gravity, has worked just fine... and with far less hassle. I never would have thunk it a few months ago...
bcnu said:
It's a simple idea and simple can be good. You could even use some sand for grout between the pavers to dress it up. Pavers on wood will work for stoves where the firebox is high up on a pedestal. Basically the 1400 appears to just need a non-combustible barrier around the stove with an extension in the front. The manual is vague here - It says, must have an approved hearth pad. And leaves it at that.
But there are a lot of stoves this would not work for, especially those that have shorter legs, no ashpan or heatshielding on the bottom. These stoves need insulation between the stove and combustible surface (wood floor or subfloor) as well as a fire barrier.
bcnu, what is the make/model of the stove?
But there are a lot of stoves this would not work for, especially those that have shorter legs, no ashpan or heatshielding on the bottom. These stoves need insulation between the stove and combustible surface (wood floor or subfloor) as well as a fire barrier.
bcnu, what is the make/model of the stove?
I agree simple was good, in this case. As you state, there are other important considerations. The Napoleon can support this given its construction with an ash pan, and the base is cool to the touch. What made this really simply solution of pavers was the floor already had this Austin Powers 60's tile in the rectangle configuration (approx 4 x 6) in this space. It was already there. The rest of the room had oak flooring laid out. So things were already in place. If there was no tile underneath it, I was prepared to lay down a fire proof solution in the subfloor. I had all kinds of complicated ideas, and a lot of people adding to it, but this was turned out so dang simple, I am happy I didn't go complex. The last advice I received from my brother was don't bother with sand to seal the floor or spaces. Again, glad I didn't go that route. The whole thing just works, and none of the 90+ pavers has so much as shifted. Am happy as a warm clam, especially after discovering what proper wood can do.
BeGreen said:
Stove is a Fire View. Small stove. Barrel shape length of 24 inches, 16 high, plus a 6 inch pedestal and stove is about 16 wide. Door is 8x10. Stove has a blower attached to the middle rear of the unit. I measured the distance from wall to stove pipe opening in the ceiling and it is 24 inches - but it vents in the middle of the stove, so rear clearance is more like 18 inches. Again, looks are not important but safety and low price are.
A picture would help, but I suspect the stove is pre-EPA and not mobile home approved. If yes, then safety becomes a relative term here.
Not concerned with inspection but do want it safe.
’m putting a very small woodstove back in an old mobile home.
So, can I simply nail up some sheetrock on the wall for protection behne the stove since I hear it it fireproof?
but safety will be my first concern. Think I’ll talk with county build. dept for current regs. May end up moving stove to a better spot. I appreciate all the ideas as I have many questions about burning with wood.
Sir no stove today can be installed in a mobile home Only the ones that have been tested and listed for mobile home installation. You bigger issue is draft in a short chimney and combustion air
all mobile home stoves require outside air kits
’m putting a very small woodstove back in an old mobile home.
So, can I simply nail up some sheetrock on the wall for protection behne the stove since I hear it it fireproof?
but safety will be my first concern. Think I’ll talk with county build. dept for current regs. May end up moving stove to a better spot. I appreciate all the ideas as I have many questions about burning with wood.
Sir no stove today can be installed in a mobile home Only the ones that have been tested and listed for mobile home installation. You bigger issue is draft in a short chimney and combustion air
all mobile home stoves require outside air kits
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