Received a quotation for a supply and install of a PE fp30. My question is in regards to the CHIMNEY STOVE PIPE.
This will be a brand new home install. Stove will be on end wall (exterior) centered. Floor to ceiling will be 14'. The width of the hearth and interior pipe chase will be aprox. 6.5'. I received a call from shop owner saying that he did not want to run pipe straight up, due to when it exits the roof it will be at the ridge. He said the flashing for a ridge termination was big and ugly. He suggested, and I agreed, that the insulated pipe should be offset, to get away from the ridge. I was surprised when I received the quotation he is using two 45's to achieve this. Am I correct, and should I suggest that two 15's is a better way to produce the offset.?
I thought I should ask here before I start telling a shop owner "what I would do." I am sure I have read that with any appliance straight termination is the best, and if It is not achievable, 90's and 45's are last resort if 15's and 22.5's won't do the task?
thanks46
This will be a brand new home install. Stove will be on end wall (exterior) centered. Floor to ceiling will be 14'. The width of the hearth and interior pipe chase will be aprox. 6.5'. I received a call from shop owner saying that he did not want to run pipe straight up, due to when it exits the roof it will be at the ridge. He said the flashing for a ridge termination was big and ugly. He suggested, and I agreed, that the insulated pipe should be offset, to get away from the ridge. I was surprised when I received the quotation he is using two 45's to achieve this. Am I correct, and should I suggest that two 15's is a better way to produce the offset.?
I thought I should ask here before I start telling a shop owner "what I would do." I am sure I have read that with any appliance straight termination is the best, and if It is not achievable, 90's and 45's are last resort if 15's and 22.5's won't do the task?
thanks46
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