re-installing cathedral ceiling support box

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kevinmerchant

Member
Jul 29, 2009
114
Cheshire, CT
Last year in the Oct storm a tree landed on my house, so I had the entire roof, including rafters replaced. When the builder was shingling I had him cut the hole and put the flashing boot on. Now, I know those of you who have installed these systems are probably laughing at this point. What was I thinking!! Any ideas on how to install the cathedral support box now that the boot in on? I'm thinking drilling screw holes through the side of the box and tack welding washer and nut on the inside of the box. Then drilling bolt holes through the framing that line up with holes in box and bolt it in. Of course before bolting in putting one section of pipe with locking band into the box. I reeeeeeeeealy dont want to pull that flashing boot out.
 
Last year in the Oct storm a tree landed on my house, so I had the entire roof, including rafters replaced. When the builder was shingling I had him cut the hole and put the flashing boot on. Now, I know those of you who have installed these systems are probably laughing at this point. What was I thinking!! Any ideas on how to install the cathedral support box now that the boot in on? I'm thinking drilling screw holes through the side of the box and tack welding washer and nut on the inside of the box. Then drilling bolt holes through the framing that line up with holes in box and bolt it in. Of course before bolting in putting one section of pipe with locking band into the box. I reeeeeeeeealy dont want to pull that flashing boot out.

Am I correct in assuming that you're dealing with a cathedral ceiling? You didn't say.. If so, is the ceiling also open?
Did your contractor mount the flashing centered between rafters? I think the biggest issue would be how to keep the first piece of Class A dead nuts plumb while trying to attach the support box. Can you elaborate or post a pic as to what configuration you're dealing with?
 
I had the same concern. It's going to be a hassle to get the angle cut correctly to match the roof slope so that the pipe is supported plumb. As for hanging the box, I would just pre-drill and then, pull the pipe and use a small angle drive going up from the open bottom hole and just put 3 #10 x 1" screws on each side, screwed into the box framing.
 
I had the same concern. It's going to be a hassle to get the angle cut correctly to match the roof slope so that the pipe is supported plumb. As for hanging the box, I would just pre-drill and then, pull the pipe and use a small angle drive going up from the open bottom hole and just put 3 #10 x 1" screws on each side, screwed into the box framing.

If he knows how to calculate the pitch of the roof he should be able to lay out the correct angle. If the flashing IS centered between the rafters, he can cut lumber to fill the gap between the rafters & the support box. Frame a band on the box securely, & then anchor the framing assembly to the rafters. An additional cross-member can be added on the low & high side for extra support. Something will have to be rigged to hold the weight of the assembly - WITH the Class A inside it - so that the support box can be shifted to get the chimney plumb before any fasteners are used...
 
Yes. I was wondering if with an assistant checking plumb of the pipe and another person down below, once plumb is establish, make alignment marks on the box and on the framing, then pull the pipe, attach the box, and then put the pipe back in. Do you think that would work?
 
Yes. I was wondering if with an assistant checking plumb of the pipe and another person down below, once plumb is establish, make alignment marks on the box and on the framing, then pull the pipe, attach the box, and then put the pipe back in. Do you think that would work?

Yep. Definitely a two-person install...
 
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