Rear Clearance to Combustibles?

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rdust

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Feb 9, 2009
4,604
Michigan
The wall my stove will be placed on is a brick wall. Is it safe to assume this wall isn't considered combustible? If the stove calls for 10" on the rear would you still follow this or can it be closer?
 

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Pagey said:
What's behind the brick? Standard 2x4s?

Good question! The other side of the wall is the fireplace in the living room(attached) but I'm not sure if the wall has studs between.
 

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Well, my understanding is that if there are 2x4s behind the brick, then you would have to follow the manufacturer's clearances as outlined in their installation manual. Brick, if I understand correctly, will allow heat transfer to any existing combustible material behind them. Someone please corroborate or correct me, as I do not want to pass faulty information.
 
I think we'll just error on the side of caution and follow the manufactures guidelines. :)
 
Remember that installing with double wall stove pipe can reduce your clearances some, depending on the manufacturer. Just food for thought in the event you had not considered it. I know with my Endeavor, you can go as close at 4.5" with approved double wall pipe.
 
Brick wall facing wood studs isn't considered protection in and of itself. It's non-combustible, yes, but an unprotected surface per NFPA 211. You will want to pay very close attention to how your manual calls out clearances - you will likely not be able to reduce clearance w/out adding protection (i.e. air-space).

What kind of stove is going in here?

And while we're at it - am I reading this correctly that there are two brick walls back to back w/ that fireplace(?) in between? Tells me there could be a large masonry chimney plunked thru the middle of the house there - not stud walls? I see the old thimble blocked off - multiple flues do exist? Or this install is going to add a new pre-fab chimney parallel to the existing one? I'm kinda wondering if the true construction is really known here.

If it's all masonry back there, your worries ease significantly...
 
Edthedawg said:
Brick wall facing wood studs isn't considered protection in and of itself. It's non-combustible, yes, but an unprotected surface per NFPA 211. You will want to pay very close attention to how your manual calls out clearances - you will likely not be able to reduce clearance w/out adding protection (i.e. air-space).

What kind of stove is going in here?

And while we're at it - am I reading this correctly that there are two brick walls back to back w/ that fireplace(?) in between? Tells me there could be a large masonry chimney plunked thru the middle of the house there - not stud walls? I see the old thimble blocked off - multiple flues do exist? Or this install is going to add a new pre-fab chimney parallel to the existing one? I'm kinda wondering if the true construction is really known here.

If it's all masonry back there, your worries ease significantly...


The chimney has three flues(attached pic) so some of the wall is the masonary chimney. I plan to us the old mansonary chimney that is plugged for the stove.

I'm almost 100% on the lopi endeavor due to it's close clearance with the double wall pipe. My wife wants as little footprint as possible in the room. I was only asking the question since it could open up other options if I could move different stoves closer.
 

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I'm confused now. If you are using the existing masonry chimney, then why are you considering the clearances and double wall pipe? Wouldn't you be looking at a stainless steel liner for the existing chimney?
 
Pagey said:
I'm confused now. If you are using the existing masonry chimney, then why are you considering the clearances and double wall pipe? Wouldn't you be looking at a stainless steel liner for the existing chimney?

Wouldn't I need a double wall pipe to connect from the stove to the existing chimney?
 
True. For some reason I was thinking you were considering putting it in the existing fireplace. My bad. LOL!
 
For sure the bricks would conduct heat really well to the wood studs - if you have wood studs. The manufacturer usually has clearance reduction instructions. It might take time for wood to break down, gasify and become combustible. But it can happen even at surprisingly low temperatures.
 
This looks like what we have here. It's a solid hunk of brick in the middle of the house with three flues. If you can see this from up in the attic and all four sides are brick, there should be no combustibles in there (save perhaps some creosote deposits). Looks to me like that is what you have, clean up to above the roof. But you better be sure if you intend to push clearances. Something doesn't look quite the same in the two views of the two sides you show. The brick colors and fireplace widths both look different. You're right to be worrying about this.

I can see all four sides of my brick at the basement, attic, and roof levels- three sides on the main floor, with a little drywall in a stairway covering one end of it.

You would want to look into getting a liner, perhaps an insulated liner if it's an old chimney, and you could probably get away with using single wall pipe from the stove into a thimble in the chimney. But consult your manual and a good chimney sweep, of course. Depends on where, exactly, the pipe from the stove is situated. And what your manufacturer says.
 
I also think there's a good chance that this is an all masonry structure, with some rubble fill. You might try a couple exploratory pilot holes behind the stove area or actually try to remove a brick if unsure. But even if it's not, given the Endeavor's 4.25" clearance to combustibles when installed with double-wall pipe, this seems like a non-issue. If you place the back of the stove 4.25" away from the brick and there is wood behind the brick, clearances have been honored The stove back is still ~7" from the wood. Just be sure the flue is the right size, certified to be in good condition and cleaned.
 
BeGreen said:
I also think there's a good chance that this is an all masonry structure, with some rubble fill. You might try a couple exploratory pilot holes behind the stove area or actually try to remove a brick if unsure. But given the Endeavor's 4.25" clearance to combustibles when installed with double-wall pipe, this seems like a non-issue. Even if you place the back of the stove 4.25" away from the brick and there is wood behind it, the stove back is still over 7" from the wood. Just be sure the flue is the right size, certified to be in good condition and cleaned.

If I get the Endeavor it's a non issue and the low clearance is one of the reasons I'm pretty sure that will be the stove. I figured if I could move some other stoves closer it could open up other choices that I really haven't focused on. My local Lopi dealer is running some end of the season deals right now so I may pick one up this weekend.

The house was built in 80 and the flue was capped around 84 I figure since it had newpapers from 84 stuffed in it before I put a foam plug in it. It looks good but as you said it'll need a good cleaning by a sweep and needs to be checked out.
 
Not to knock the Lopi, it's got good genes, but there are other choices in this range. Other stoves in this size range, that have close clearances as well are made by Quadrafire, Napoleon and Pacific Energy. If you decide on the Endeavor, I don't think you'll regret it at all. Just wanted to let you know there are other stoves with close clearance qualifications. Sometimes this helps when price or the other half needs some choices. ;-)
 
It looks like you have an all masonry structure there, so you could sidle up as close as you want to to the brick... If it is not, a brick walll with an airspace to wooden studs still gives you a 66% reduction in clearances, or a 33% reduction if there is no airspace. (as per nfpa 211).. but with the stove you are talking about, this should not be a concern, and double wall pipe will probably not be required. Stuff her in there!!!
 
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