Rear Clearance with Wall Protection

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rosem

Member
Aug 27, 2019
127
Northern Michigan
Installing a Jotul F55 soon. Minimum rear clearance is 6". I planned on installing it at 7" from the wall. It's just drywall.

However, after reading about how hot people say their walls get I'm starting to think I should add some wall protect to be safe.

If I added wall protection I would most likely do sheet metal on 1" spacers.

My question is does that 6" minimum measure from the combustible wall or the wall protection?

Also, anyone with a Jotul F55 want to comment on wall and floor temps after running all day?

One more thing to add is that there is a ceiling fan almost directly above the stove on a 8' ceiling. I plan on running it while the stove is going.
 
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6" to combustibles. Fan shouldn't borher anything. I run ours in reverse during heating months.
 
6" to combustibles. Fan shouldn't borher anything. I run ours in reverse during heating months.

I meant to ask will the ceiling fan have a significant impact on helping keep wall temps down while running?

After reading the manual again it's listed at 6" to protected walls too, so I might have answered my own question. Looks like I need to be 7" out. 1" spacing + 6" clearance from the protected wall (sheet metal).
 
Cast iron-clad stoves are not like highly radiant unshielded stoves. Maybe run with the stove for a while before worrying about this. A wall shield can be added later if you find it to be an issue.
 
I'd go the 7" and do like begreen suggested and see what happens without a wall spacer. These stoves have been tested extensively for safe clearance requirements. Hot is a relative term to some folks. Hot tap water is 130 degrees and it's hard to hold your hand under that. If you can hold your hand on it, it's okay.
 
I'd go the 7" and do like begreen suggested and see what happens without a wall spacer. These stoves have been tested extensively for safe clearance requirements. Hot is a relative term to some folks. Hot tap water is 130 degrees and it's hard to hold your hand under that. If you can hold your hand on it, it's okay.

+1 . . . "Hot", "cold" and "spicy" often mean different things to different folks. I've now turned down our water heater to one setting above "cool" (I forget which temp it correlates to) as my wife has found the water to be quite hot. For the record, she also dislikes spicy foods.

As mentioned these stoves have been tested to a certain spec . . . you will actually be exceeding these specs which is not a bad thing.
 
I find the wall behind my stove (different brand) is mostly unaffected (jacketed stove). Up where the stovepipe is will get very warm. I run single wall and consider adding a heat shield on the pipe itself. Your 6" spec is with double wall and the rear collar shield installed, correct? Not sure if a pipe shield can be added to double wall or not.
 
I find the wall behind my stove (different brand) is mostly unaffected (jacketed stove). Up where the stovepipe is will get very warm. I run single wall and consider adding a heat shield on the pipe itself. Your 6" spec is with double wall and the rear collar shield installed, correct? Not sure if a pipe shield can be added to double wall or not.

Yes, Excel Ultrablack double wall pipe. This would be 7" from the wall too since the flue collar is the far rear of the stove. The rear collar shield is required to meet the 6" clearance.
 
I'd go the 7" and do like begreen suggested and see what happens without a wall spacer. These stoves have been tested extensively for safe clearance requirements. Hot is a relative term to some folks. Hot tap water is 130 degrees and it's hard to hold your hand under that. If you can hold your hand on it, it's okay.

Sounds good. I have to go 6 3/4" anyway because of our trim, so I will just make it 7". Our baseboard is 8" tall and the leg height of the stove is only 7.5". I'm assuming that is the distance that "combustibles" will be measured from. If I need to add the heat shield the baseboard will most likely be removed.