Rebuilding chimney

[Incognito]

Hello,
I'm in the process of installing a DYI wood burning fireplace insert(Regency I3000). It's a 50 year old chimney in the wet Willamette Valley near Salem, Oregon.
I took apart what basically fell apart. I have a couple of questions on the rebuild. The existing setup has about a 11.5 foot flue height measured with a tape measure from top of clay until it stopped on the damper. Would it make the most sense to build my chimney to at least the recommended 15 foot height? If so can I skip adding the clay liner pieces? I'll be using a stainless steel liner. Since the chimney is about 24X20 inches on the outside should I use 3/8 rebar vertically and grout the cells it's in? Any other tips would be appreciated.

The inside has an heatform metal fireplace that I will need to enlarge the damper area. I also need to remove the arch and make the opening rectangular. I'll have to install a lintel. But that's a later project.

Thanks for any guidance,
Steve

 

[Whitenuckler]

Hello,
I'm in the process of installing a DYI wood burning fireplace insert(Regency I3000). It's a 50 year old chimney in the wet Willamette Valley near Salem, Oregon.
I took apart what basically fell apart. I have a couple of questions on the rebuild. The existing setup has about a 11.5 foot flue height measured with a tape measure from top of clay until it stopped on the damper. Would it make the most sense to build my chimney to at least the recommended 15 foot height? If so can I skip adding the clay liner pieces? I'll be using a stainless steel liner. Since the chimney is about 24X20 inches on the outside should I use 3/8 rebar vertically and grout the cells it's in? Any other tips would be appreciated.

The inside has an heatform metal fireplace that I will need to enlarge the damper area. I also need to remove the arch and make the opening rectangular. I'll have to install a lintel. But that's a later project.

Thanks for any guidance,
Steve

If you only need a 6 inch pipe then you have lots of options on that install.

 

[bholler]

Hello,
I'm in the process of installing a DYI wood burning fireplace insert(Regency I3000). It's a 50 year old chimney in the wet Willamette Valley near Salem, Oregon.
I took apart what basically fell apart. I have a couple of questions on the rebuild. The existing setup has about a 11.5 foot flue height measured with a tape measure from top of clay until it stopped on the damper. Would it make the most sense to build my chimney to at least the recommended 15 foot height? If so can I skip adding the clay liner pieces? I'll be using a stainless steel liner. Since the chimney is about 24X20 inches on the outside should I use 3/8 rebar vertically and grout the cells it's in? Any other tips would be appreciated.

The inside has an heatform metal fireplace that I will need to enlarge the damper area. I also need to remove the arch and make the opening rectangular. I'll have to install a lintel. But that's a later project.

Thanks for any guidance,
Steve

I would honestly take it below the roofline and transition to prefab 6" chimney there and bring that through the roof

 

[Incognito]

Bholler,

Clever idea! It would be easy to finish the peak off with plywood, then shingle and install some ridge cap. It will need a county building inspection. I'm not worried about aesthetics since this is not seen from the street. What would the termination look like? Should the block be cut at an angle just below the new sheathing? How would I cap the top of the block off and transition to class A pipe?

 

[Incognito]

Here is where I'm at.

 

[bholler]

Here is where I'm at.

Ahhh I didn't realize it was exposed like that. In that case I would probably just rebuild

 

[Incognito]

Could it work and pass inspection if the blocks were lowered below the roof line?
My concern is the entire chimney block structure to the foundation is not in good shape. There are numerous vertical and horizontal mortar joint cracks below what I have removed. Building back to the original height plus another 4 feet to get a 15 foot flue might not be structurally sound.
Would a flashing like this be adequate along with two leg braces secured to the roof and pipe?
I'm okay with the look. You can't see it from the ground there is a big slope and too many trees. The rest of the house is way uglier. Haha.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Could it work and pass inspection if the blocks were lowered below the roof line?
My concern is the entire chimney block structure to the foundation is not in good shape. There are numerous vertical and horizontal mortar joint cracks below what I have removed. Building back to the original height plus another 4 feet to get a 15 foot flue might not be structurally sound.
Would a flashing like this be adequate along with two leg braces secured to the roof and pipe?
I'm okay with the look. You can't see it from the ground there is a big slope and too many trees. The rest of the house is way uglier. Haha.

I picture something like this:

Extend Your Brick Masonry Chimney with Class A Pipe

Extending your chimney with Rock-Vent Class A chimney pipe is possible with use of the Transition Plate. Easily add chimney height with chimney pipe.

www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

You are at a great point for the roof cap, and your clay liner opening looks pretty big.

 

[Incognito]

The inside dimensions of the clay liner is 9.5X13.5 inches. If the remaining block chimney is brought down just below the roof peak I would have less than 8 feet to the top of the stove.
With the cost of the transion plate at hundreds of dollars maybe I should use rigid pipe for the whole thing. It would be a stronger assembly too.

Would I custom build a sheet metal cap for the top of the existing chimney? I don't see a reason for a new concrete crown since it will be out of the weather.

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Steve

 

[Whitenuckler]

The inside dimensions of the clay liner is 9.5X13.5 inches. If the remaining block chimney is brought down just below the roof peak I would have less than 8 feet to the top of the stove.
With the cost of the transion plate at hundreds of dollars maybe I should use rigid pipe for the whole thing. It would be a stronger assembly too.

Would I custom build a sheet metal cap for the top of the existing chimney? I don't see a reason for a new concrete crown since it will be out of the weather.

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Steve

I had a 2 story house with a masonry chimney that was used for an oil furnance (1940's house). It was unused and I wanted to get rid of the top portion. I had brick layers come in and demo below the soffits. They filled in the top with rubble and then capped it with concrete.
I was getting new soffits and facia along with the new roof so it all worked out. Later I used some leftover facia and made a cap so you can't see the concrete top and the birds can't nest there.
Here on this house (1970's) there was a masonry chimney 2 sided one for oil one for the fireplace. I capped both using HVAC duct covers myself. The proper way is to get someone to make a stainless cover with a raised center and drip edges.